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mewanderinghome's avatar
Sep 03, 2021

fridge problem on gas / potential battery issue?

Hi all first post:
2006 Forest River Wildwood 23FBL travel trailer. Dometic refrigerator runs fine on electric (gas generator- no electric on site), unreliably on propane (sometimes works, sometimes not). I was thinking it might be that the two 12v deep-cycle batteries are starting to go, and that the spark igniter at the gas burner may not always have enough juice to generate spark. So Q#1:

1) Does anyone know what voltage the igniter needs to have to work?

It could also be a bad ground or bad igniter, but a new symptom seems to support the idea of batteries not providing enough juice: the batteries are quickly dying when I turn the generator off, even when it has run for several hours...and despite the fact that I have a 100watt solar panel in the system to keep the batteries topped off between generator runs. So next question seems to be what might be causing the batteries to discharge/fail. Perhaps they're just old (I bought this RV used one year ago & don't know when they were last replaced). But I also started thinking about parasitic drains, bc of course I don't want to put new batteries in and have them fail in a couple months. I would think it would have to be a pretty bad one for the 100w solar panel to not compensate for the drain. Then I realized something that might be a parasitic problem: I've installed a galvanized wire fence around the the camper, which does make contact with the ground and the frame (but only at the hitch, it's in contact with the body of the TT in other areas, and forms a little yard). So Q#2-4:

2) What's the easiest way to test if a parasitic drain is occurring?

3) Will that test work with the existing batteries if they're weak, or will I need to invest in good batteries first?

4) Could grounding the frame (to actual ground) through a wire fence cause substantial parasitic drain, eventually causing the batteries to not hold a charge?
  • Your trailer must have a connection directly to ground through stabilizing Jack's regardless of fence, a direct connection to ground is not going to cause a problem with the batteries. If the batteries are old and not holding a charge it would be best to change them. You need a voltmeter to check amp draw on the batteries.
  • Somewhere around 11.5 for good ignition.
    Check the igntitor to insure it is about 1/8 inch from ground.
    Earth ground is not necessarey for the 12 volt DC system. Good connection between the battery negative and the rig's frame is necessary.
    Disconnect the battery, use Ohmmeter between the disconnected wire and the battery terminal. With everything shut off there should be no reading, as in zero ohms.
    How does the refer work when connected to shore power or genset? If works OK, then batteries! Refer should be manual set to propane for this test and not auto!
  • wa8yxm's avatar
    wa8yxm
    Explorer III
    I second the need of a volt meter

    one thing you can do that's a "Cheap test" is lock the fridge on gas and fire up the genny. if it now lights and holds good chance it's a voltage issue.

    BUT

    The spark gap should be set for about 1/4" as I recall (PLEASE DO NOT TAKE MY WORD FOR THAT) is about 800 volts AC if the chart I googled up is to be believed. now I'd want about 1,000 volts AC to insure a good spark. if the battery voltage is too low ***OR*** the gap is two wide.. not happening.

    I've not seen that on RV Fridges or water heaters.
    I have seen it on two furnaces. My RV and my parent's Oil fired house.

    Out of 2 I've worked on.

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