Fuel Pump Relay for 1980 to 199* P30

[D_E_Bishop]

I found another maker for the FPR used in 0lder P30's, it is Airtex and the part number is 1R1240. It is an exact replacement for the OEM, TRW 15528707 relay.

Best part is the prices range from $10.00 t0 $21.00 through eBay. OTC sales in Simi Valley, CA @ Aims Auto Supply.

Of course I found these after I bought one at $15.00 + expedited shipping. My RV is stored in Simi Valley, go figure.

[Brendeho]

beachdaman wrote:
Hi, I was just following up if that relay worked?

for me it has worked pretty well

[beachdaman]

Hi, I was just following up if that relay worked?

[Brendeho]

thomas10decon wrote:
BRENDEHO!! can you repost the center diagrahm on your post of 9/26/17 for relay 15528707 i just cant read it its just too small!and i realy need it ,,thanks THOMAS

I think you'd be better off to search, "p30 vapor lock cause and cure" and better yet, "chevy p30 chassis manual". It's page 7-46.

[thomas10decon]

BRENDEHO!! can you repost the center diagrahm on your post of 9/26/17 for relay 15528707 i just cant read it its just too small!and i realy need it ,,thanks THOMAS

[Brendeho]

Hi Hows it going? I see this is an older post. I wanted to give some feedback and add some details about this particular fuel pump relay to replace GM 15528707. This post is about the only place online I see anything about a replacement, maybe someone has tried it already other than D.E. Bishop. Either way, I want to give some feedback about this relay and the electrical diagrams.

So then I get the relay in the mail, and have no idea of the pinouts. What happened is the diagram stamped on the body of the 1R1240 relay is different from what rock auto, or any online supplier provides in their product sample image. I was able to find the relay and a pigtail connector online.
AIRTEX/WELLS 1R1240
AIRTEX/WELLS 1P1030

Airtex provides these diagrams:



Original Relay Diagram:


This would be the original workaround diagram for GM 15528707 .


I haven't installed or tried this out yet. I'm not even sure if my vapor locking issue is related... but it's one more point of elimination.

[j-d]

Yeah, our Ford Class C had dual tanks. Electric pump in each tank, feed and return line each tank. So.. the Tank Select Valve switched between the two pairs of lines representing two tanks, onto one feed and one return up to the carburetor. Yep, the carburetor, no mechanical pump on the engine. Same valve also had contacts to switch which pump ran and which tank sent levels to the gas gauge. The select valves are still available, aftermarket, about $100.

Back to this tread: On the link OP posted that shows the Relay's Location, scroll down a ways and there's a schematic of how the pump and relay are wired. That was where I decided a BOSCH/TYCO relay would work.

[enblethen]

I could not find anything of how the relay is controlled. Standard relay would operate when ignition is in the on position. If that is the case I would start by verifying that the relay is getting power to the contacts, and then getting control power.
OP could jumper incoming power to the relay to the pump wire and see if the pump runs.
Some of that vintage also had dual tanks with a solenoid operated control valve to switch the tanks. Some were troublesome.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

You want reliability? This will outlast a standard relay, even a TYCO 100 to 1, and keep working just fine even if the oil pressure switch takes a dump and decides to pass a feeble amount of power. The day of magnetic coils and oxidizing relay contacts is past. Gone, obsolete, history.




http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-Amp-Solid-State-Relay-for-solar-charge-controllers-/391089908705?hash=it...

[j-d]

enblethen wrote:

j-d: what year are you needing relay for?

For nothing. For MEX - nada.

I'm just trying to follow what OP is working on.

And it sounds like OP found a suitable relay. For his in-tank, mechanical-pump-feeding electric pump. Which seems to involve a relay and some kind of regulator.

But if he hasn't or what shows up isn't the right one, I'd say re-wire and use a BOSCH (TYCO). A 5-terminal one...

[enblethen]

The old fuel cut-off relay is not readily available any more as very few around.
j-d: what year are you needing relay for? And does it have fuel injection?

[j-d]

Bud,

I hit the clicky "Fuel cut-off relay" on your 24AUG post and it took me to a relay on O'Reilly. Then I put my ZIP in and chose a store for "Price and Availability." At that point it said no nearby store had one and price was $120.99. I didn't look at anything earlier for EFI, at least didn't try to.

MEX,

Glad to know the name change from BOSCH to TYCO. I pulled the relay pic up from Amazon, and they also have BOSCH Brand Relays, about $10.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Anything butva geuine TYCO relay is JUNK TRASH GARBAGE LANDFILL. TYCO is the new name for Bosch. Creepy wanna be's almost cost me the toad engine three times. Electric fan relay failure. Tyco costs a dollar or so more but in a bone dry location you won't be opening it up after a year only to find green spongy powder where the coil and contacts were. The TYCO has lasted FIVE TIMES the mileage and calendar time of the pretenders.

[enblethen]

J-D:
Not sure what year you are dealing with. The first relay that I posted is the normal fuel pump relay for injected 7.4 engines. The fuel pump relay on second post is not the normal one. Second is for carb engines. Yes, a standard 30 amp relay should perform just as good.

[j-d]

MEX, funny you mention Tioga Pass. We went to Yosemite driving a Subaru Forester. Albeit from the West. We passed an old Lazy Daze on Chevy chassis on the way up. Then pulled over to take a picture and here came the Lazy Daze. Engine actually sounded like it was chugging Little-Engine-That-Could-Style. We found it on the side of the road with the hood open, after stopping at the ranger station. I'm guessing it either starved or vapor locked.
And why I don't recommend the Chevy/350/5.7 in a full Class C. They really struggle on a climb, and this one wasn't pulling a toad or trailer.