waynefi wrote:
Answers to a few of John’s questions:
The pump is a Lippert Flow Max 689051.
The water heater is a Suburban SW6DE. I did not notice any weeping around the pressure relief valve. The thermostat seems to be around 129, which is a little hotter than I would like.
I really did mean leave the water heater on. As long as the water stays hot, it doesn’t leak. It is only when is is heating and expanding that it leaks. That is why this was such a pain to track down.
The water heater is so close to the floor that I can’t slip any kind of bowl under it, but I built a little frame to hold a plastic sheet to confine the water. When it leaks, it is about 1/2 cup, then it stops.
My last trailer had significant water damage to the floor, and I’m not sure I ever knew where the leak was, so I’m paying a lot of attention to this one. I can see what a big job your hobby could be.
Wayne
Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.
On leaving the water heater on, h'mm OK I see your point. Just beware that when you start to camp, the water will be cold as the water source and the first time the heater, heats, it will build the higher pressure. If you burp the faucet along the way, it will relive the high pressure. It's a work around, not the greatest, but it may buy you some time until the pump gets fixed.
On the hot water temp setpoint, I'm more fluent on the Atwood heater, but I looked up the Suburban and it seems to also have a fixed temp setpoint, in this case 130F +/- 5 F. They have it that hot to help make the tank of hot water last longer. They know you will blend it with cold water at the faucet, so you will less hot water to get the cooler volume out the faucet. Atwood does it the same, just they picked 140F.
Atwood does offer and adjustable T stat you can buy, it does not come with it, but it used to be available. I'm not sure if Suburban has one, they might.
The camper restore projects, yes they take a lot of time. Most get a whole new roof, and I chase the water damage repair all the way to the end of it. Most times all the siding is off and every door, window, furnace etc. in the siding is removed and reset with new commercial grade butyl tape and RV Proflex caulk. Some need an all new wall, floor or ceiling rebuilds in some fashion. It typically takes on average 750 work hours to complete a camper. That includes a frame paint, suspension and brake rebuild, axle alignment check and correct and all appliances & the AC unit are serviced and tested. The camper is better then new when your done, and sealed up a lot better then it ever was.
Good luck with your pump.
John