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Ground Breaking 100 watt Eqvt 120 vac Light Bulb

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
http://www.switchlightingco.com/lib/pdf/SWITCH3way-2013.pdf

This critter is supposed to be "indistinguishable" from a an incandescent lamp of 100 watts capacity. For 20 watts power consumption.

Hopefully this means the technology is now here to make 12-volt lamps (bulbs) with the same technique.

The issue (is) light dispersion. Even around the sphere of the lamp just like an incandescent

Can only keep one's fingers crossed...
33 REPLIES 33

tenbear
Explorer
Explorer
My experience with LEDs and CFLs has been just the opposite to Gdetrailer's.

I have replaced almost all the sticks and bricks lights with CFLs and I can't count the failures, but at $0.99 it doesn't cost much to replace the bad bulbs. The one LED I have, replaced a 60W incandescent, and has worked flawlessly for about a year. It cost as much as 5 CFLs, $5.

All of my coach lights are LEDs. I had some early failures of strips of 3 LEDs. I traced these to panel failures, The individual LEDs are still good but the panel wiring failed. So some of my lights have lost 8% of the light, not too noticeable. I like the LEDs, good color, good brightness, good life, great current drain, still too expensive.

I think the future belongs to LEDs. CFLs will disappear and be replaced with LEDs but the cost has to come down. I don't think it will happen in 1 or 2 years, maybe 5 years.
Class C, 2004/5 Four Winds Dutchman Express 28A, Chevy chassis
2010 Subaru Impreza Sedan
Camped in 45 states, 7 Provinces and 1 Territory

dddire
Explorer
Explorer
slowly replacing my CFL.. (most of which are likely 10 yrs old) as they die with LED's. I have 3 LG LED in my stairway to the 2nd and 3rd floors. These lights are NEVER turned off... ever. Bought at Costco about 3 years ago. Very bright, nice light. Just picked up a Walmart branded bulb to replace a light in the kitchen over the table. A three blub hanging fixture. The light from the LED is nicer than the CFL's. We'll see how long the Wally bulb lasts.

Replaced all my trailer lights with Chinese LED boards two years ago... no failures and much greater house battery life.

LED all the way.

NinerBikes
Explorer
Explorer
For mountain biking, 3 or 4 years ago, all of us went from HID 10 watt bulbs with ballasts to LED's, and the price keeps on dropping lower and lower, for more lumens. 700 lumens used to be a good number, for about $90 from China, it's less than half that for 1500 lumens nowadays.

ktmrfs
Explorer II
Explorer II
Gdetrailer wrote:
NinerBikes wrote:
Gdetrailer wrote:
ktmrfs wrote:
I have some LED recessed floods and they are bright, same color as halogens, dimmable, and very pleasing color rendition. (Costco had them). In fact, just for a comparison I left one 75W halogen in the kitchen and the other 9 floods were the LED. Walking into the room, it was very difficult to point out the one halogen. Brightness and color were very good.

Initially LED bulbs had 3 emitters, red, green, and blue with very narrow spectrum so no matter what, the color didn't appear very white. Some then added yellow to help but the same basic problem, 3 (or 4) very narrow spectral lines, not like "normal" light.

so, finally the solution. Use a phosphor coating like they do on floresent bulbs on the LED case surface. the LED excites the phosphor which then emits light at a variety of wavelengths, like a florescent bulb does. Now the spectrum is filling in and the output is much more like natural light. Couple that with varying the brightness of the 3 or 4 emitters and choosing phosphors and it is like floresents where you can make almost any color temperature you want pretty easily.

I suspect there is a very slight hit in efficiency, but more than made up for in the color of the light. And the CREE LED's seem to be continually improving in efficiency as well.

My prediction is that the LED's within one, maybe two years will be priced like the CFL's today and the CFL's will disappear quickly.


Not likely.

LEDs, especially WHITE LEDs have a long, long way to get to CFLs price points, LONGEVITY and potential brightness.

To me LEDs have been unreliable and costly, heck I can't even keep SIMPLE LED taillights and even marker lights working reliably for more than a couple of years on my RV.

My experience with 120V home LEDs has also been terrible, the longest lasting 120V LED bulb made it TWO MONTHS and it cost $20 :M, the shortest has been one week..

You also can not get super uber bright LEDs, you know something that competes more on 40W and above in incadescent but yet you can find lots of super bright CFLs which are in excess of 350W of incadescent brightness.

Take a good look at CFLs future, it is EXTREMELY bright...

85W CFL link

Specs are as follows..

85-Watt, 5200 Lumens, 80 CRI
350-Watt Incandescent Equivalent
10,000 Hour Average Lamp Life
6500K Color Temperature, Daylight Color, Medium Base

$27.95

To get a LED light to get close to that brightness you would literally have to buy 520 of the BEST LED lights costing you at the min of $2600 :E ($5 per 100 lumens).

That 85W CFL rocks, I put one in my garage last summer, used it last winter and this summer and so far is still working.

They make even brighter CFLs to boot.


$4.80 for 280 lumens at 700 Mah. 910 lumens @ 3.0 Amps. multiply x 5 for 4550 lumens... $24.

Cree xm-l T6 LED's


Hate to tell you.. but LED manufacturers OVER HYPE the Lumens ratings well in excess of TWICE the actual USABLE brightness. In other words the manufacturers are LYING. LEDs by the very nature have an extremely bright center spot, that is where they MEASURE the lumens. Other types lighting does not have the issue.

LEDs have a secondary drawback, they FADE in brightness, the manufacturers leave out the fact that IF the LEDs make it to the rated 100,000 hr mark they WILL be at less than half the original brightness.

My own experience with LEDs bears that out even in a short two month life of a LED light I had, before it burned out it was considerably weaker than when it was new. Started out as a 9W LED with a lumens rating of 40W but if you matched it to an incadescent bulb it was only as bright as a 25W incadescent when it was new. Before it burned out a 4W incadescent nightlight was brighter than the LED.

The manufacturers also are lying about the longevity of white LEDs, they are overdriving the LEDs to get the max brightness. In doing so they are SHORTENING THE LIFE of the LED.

I got sucked into the LED thing and got burnt, spend your hard earned money on them, it is yours to do so but I myself will not get caught up in LED frenzy again. Maybe in 20 yrs or so when they are mature but not now, they are still experimenting with YOUR hard earned money.

CFLs have been out since the 1980s, they are very mature and will continue to go on for years. Just recently I had to replace a 9W CFL I bought back around 1989, burned in our kitchen stove hood every night 365 a year, that is 24 yrs operating 8hrs every day, that's an outstanding 70,000 hrs! Not bad for something which is only rated for 10,000 hrs. Can't say that for the pitiful 9W LED light I had which only lasted a measly 480hrs.


My experience with CFL's and 120V LED's is just the opposite of yours. CFL floodlights in overhead cans were lasting me and many neighbors about 6 months, well shorter than an incandesent. My LED replacements are going on 18 months and still perfect. And the LED floods I have give a very broad and uniform light spread, way better than the CFL or halogen floods they replaced with instant turn on and brightness.

That plus the anoying "feature" of CFL's of the LONG turn on time in cooler temps. In the morning or night when the house is in the mid to low 60's CFL's take several minutes to hit max brightness, worse as they get cycled.


yes, poor mfg and design does show up in LEDs no doubt. But economy of scale for LED's is much higher than CFL's.

It will be intersting to see how the LED high and low beam headlights that are now on some car models hold up compared to halogen bulbs.

So, I guess we can check back in a year and two years and see what the customers are choosing.
2011 Keystone Outback 295RE
2004 14' bikehauler with full living quarters
2015.5 Denali 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison
2004.5 Silverado 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison passed on to our Son!

NinerBikes
Explorer
Explorer
LED's fail due to poor engineering and heat management issues. Proper heat sinks are an absolute necessity often overlooked by LED manufacturers.

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
NinerBikes wrote:
Gdetrailer wrote:
ktmrfs wrote:
I have some LED recessed floods and they are bright, same color as halogens, dimmable, and very pleasing color rendition. (Costco had them). In fact, just for a comparison I left one 75W halogen in the kitchen and the other 9 floods were the LED. Walking into the room, it was very difficult to point out the one halogen. Brightness and color were very good.

Initially LED bulbs had 3 emitters, red, green, and blue with very narrow spectrum so no matter what, the color didn't appear very white. Some then added yellow to help but the same basic problem, 3 (or 4) very narrow spectral lines, not like "normal" light.

so, finally the solution. Use a phosphor coating like they do on floresent bulbs on the LED case surface. the LED excites the phosphor which then emits light at a variety of wavelengths, like a florescent bulb does. Now the spectrum is filling in and the output is much more like natural light. Couple that with varying the brightness of the 3 or 4 emitters and choosing phosphors and it is like floresents where you can make almost any color temperature you want pretty easily.

I suspect there is a very slight hit in efficiency, but more than made up for in the color of the light. And the CREE LED's seem to be continually improving in efficiency as well.

My prediction is that the LED's within one, maybe two years will be priced like the CFL's today and the CFL's will disappear quickly.


Not likely.

LEDs, especially WHITE LEDs have a long, long way to get to CFLs price points, LONGEVITY and potential brightness.

To me LEDs have been unreliable and costly, heck I can't even keep SIMPLE LED taillights and even marker lights working reliably for more than a couple of years on my RV.

My experience with 120V home LEDs has also been terrible, the longest lasting 120V LED bulb made it TWO MONTHS and it cost $20 :M, the shortest has been one week..

You also can not get super uber bright LEDs, you know something that competes more on 40W and above in incadescent but yet you can find lots of super bright CFLs which are in excess of 350W of incadescent brightness.

Take a good look at CFLs future, it is EXTREMELY bright...

85W CFL link

Specs are as follows..

85-Watt, 5200 Lumens, 80 CRI
350-Watt Incandescent Equivalent
10,000 Hour Average Lamp Life
6500K Color Temperature, Daylight Color, Medium Base

$27.95

To get a LED light to get close to that brightness you would literally have to buy 520 of the BEST LED lights costing you at the min of $2600 :E ($5 per 100 lumens).

That 85W CFL rocks, I put one in my garage last summer, used it last winter and this summer and so far is still working.

They make even brighter CFLs to boot.


$4.80 for 280 lumens at 700 Mah. 910 lumens @ 3.0 Amps. multiply x 5 for 4550 lumens... $24.

Cree xm-l T6 LED's


Hate to tell you.. but LED manufacturers OVER HYPE the Lumens ratings well in excess of TWICE the actual USABLE brightness. In other words the manufacturers are LYING. LEDs by the very nature have an extremely bright center spot, that is where they MEASURE the lumens. Other types lighting does not have the issue.

LEDs have a secondary drawback, they FADE in brightness, the manufacturers leave out the fact that IF the LEDs make it to the rated 100,000 hr mark they WILL be at less than half the original brightness.

My own experience with LEDs bears that out even in a short two month life of a LED light I had, before it burned out it was considerably weaker than when it was new. Started out as a 9W LED with a lumens rating of 40W but if you matched it to an incadescent bulb it was only as bright as a 25W incadescent when it was new. Before it burned out a 4W incadescent nightlight was brighter than the LED.

The manufacturers also are lying about the longevity of white LEDs, they are overdriving the LEDs to get the max brightness. In doing so they are SHORTENING THE LIFE of the LED.

I got sucked into the LED thing and got burnt, spend your hard earned money on them, it is yours to do so but I myself will not get caught up in LED frenzy again. Maybe in 20 yrs or so when they are mature but not now, they are still experimenting with YOUR hard earned money.

CFLs have been out since the 1980s, they are very mature and will continue to go on for years. Just recently I had to replace a 9W CFL I bought back around 1989, burned in our kitchen stove hood every night 365 a year, that is 24 yrs operating 8hrs every day, that's an outstanding 70,000 hrs! Not bad for something which is only rated for 10,000 hrs. Can't say that for the pitiful 9W LED light I had which only lasted a measly 480hrs.

Wayne_Dohnal
Explorer
Explorer

(1)
LEDs, especially WHITE LEDs have a long, long way to get to CFLs price points, LONGEVITY and potential brightness.

(2)
To me LEDs have been unreliable and costly, heck I can't even keep SIMPLE LED taillights and even marker lights working reliably for more than a couple of years on my RV.

(3)
My experience with 120V home LEDs has also been terrible, the longest lasting 120V LED bulb made it TWO MONTHS and it cost $20 :M, the shortest has been one week..

(4)
You also can not get super uber bright LEDs, you know something that competes more on 40W and above in incadescent but yet you can find lots of super bright CFLs which are in excess of 350W of incadescent brightness.

(5)
Take a good look at CFLs future, it is EXTREMELY bright...

I'm not totally unfamiliar with CFLs. Rough guess, I'm using about 45 of them.

Response to #1&4 above: White LEDs are already at CFL brightness up to 75 watt "equivalent". Longevity, I don't believe any of those "22.8" year claims for either. Over the ~10 years I've been using CFLs, the ones that burn for hours every day last about 2 years. I'm only starting to transition to 120 volt LEDs because the price, while still too high, is ramping down.

Response to #2&3 above: I'm using about 8 LED lamps in the house, only a couple for more than a year. So far no failures. Using about 5 in the RV, no failures.

Response to #5 above: The CFL future for me is totally dark. I hope to never buy another one. The ramp-up time is obnoxious, the brightness is low outdoors in cold weather, the tubes fracture easily, and there's too much guilt to bear throwing them in the garbage. LEDs are only slightly more efficient, so that in itself isn't much of an issue.
2009 Fleetwood Icon 24A
Honda Fit dinghy with US Gear brake system
LinkPro battery monitor - EU2000i generator

NinerBikes
Explorer
Explorer
Gdetrailer wrote:
ktmrfs wrote:
I have some LED recessed floods and they are bright, same color as halogens, dimmable, and very pleasing color rendition. (Costco had them). In fact, just for a comparison I left one 75W halogen in the kitchen and the other 9 floods were the LED. Walking into the room, it was very difficult to point out the one halogen. Brightness and color were very good.

Initially LED bulbs had 3 emitters, red, green, and blue with very narrow spectrum so no matter what, the color didn't appear very white. Some then added yellow to help but the same basic problem, 3 (or 4) very narrow spectral lines, not like "normal" light.

so, finally the solution. Use a phosphor coating like they do on floresent bulbs on the LED case surface. the LED excites the phosphor which then emits light at a variety of wavelengths, like a florescent bulb does. Now the spectrum is filling in and the output is much more like natural light. Couple that with varying the brightness of the 3 or 4 emitters and choosing phosphors and it is like floresents where you can make almost any color temperature you want pretty easily.

I suspect there is a very slight hit in efficiency, but more than made up for in the color of the light. And the CREE LED's seem to be continually improving in efficiency as well.

My prediction is that the LED's within one, maybe two years will be priced like the CFL's today and the CFL's will disappear quickly.


Not likely.

LEDs, especially WHITE LEDs have a long, long way to get to CFLs price points, LONGEVITY and potential brightness.

To me LEDs have been unreliable and costly, heck I can't even keep SIMPLE LED taillights and even marker lights working reliably for more than a couple of years on my RV.

My experience with 120V home LEDs has also been terrible, the longest lasting 120V LED bulb made it TWO MONTHS and it cost $20 :M, the shortest has been one week..

You also can not get super uber bright LEDs, you know something that competes more on 40W and above in incadescent but yet you can find lots of super bright CFLs which are in excess of 350W of incadescent brightness.

Take a good look at CFLs future, it is EXTREMELY bright...

85W CFL link

Specs are as follows..

85-Watt, 5200 Lumens, 80 CRI
350-Watt Incandescent Equivalent
10,000 Hour Average Lamp Life
6500K Color Temperature, Daylight Color, Medium Base

$27.95

To get a LED light to get close to that brightness you would literally have to buy 520 of the BEST LED lights costing you at the min of $2600 :E ($5 per 100 lumens).

That 85W CFL rocks, I put one in my garage last summer, used it last winter and this summer and so far is still working.

They make even brighter CFLs to boot.


$4.80 for 280 lumens at 700 Mah. 910 lumens @ 3.0 Amps. multiply x 5 for 4550 lumens... $24.

Cree xm-l T6 LED's

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
ktmrfs wrote:
I have some LED recessed floods and they are bright, same color as halogens, dimmable, and very pleasing color rendition. (Costco had them). In fact, just for a comparison I left one 75W halogen in the kitchen and the other 9 floods were the LED. Walking into the room, it was very difficult to point out the one halogen. Brightness and color were very good.

Initially LED bulbs had 3 emitters, red, green, and blue with very narrow spectrum so no matter what, the color didn't appear very white. Some then added yellow to help but the same basic problem, 3 (or 4) very narrow spectral lines, not like "normal" light.

so, finally the solution. Use a phosphor coating like they do on floresent bulbs on the LED case surface. the LED excites the phosphor which then emits light at a variety of wavelengths, like a florescent bulb does. Now the spectrum is filling in and the output is much more like natural light. Couple that with varying the brightness of the 3 or 4 emitters and choosing phosphors and it is like floresents where you can make almost any color temperature you want pretty easily.

I suspect there is a very slight hit in efficiency, but more than made up for in the color of the light. And the CREE LED's seem to be continually improving in efficiency as well.

My prediction is that the LED's within one, maybe two years will be priced like the CFL's today and the CFL's will disappear quickly.


Not likely.

LEDs, especially WHITE LEDs have a long, long way to get to CFLs price points, LONGEVITY and potential brightness.

To me LEDs have been unreliable and costly, heck I can't even keep SIMPLE LED taillights and even marker lights working reliably for more than a couple of years on my RV.

My experience with 120V home LEDs has also been terrible, the longest lasting 120V LED bulb made it TWO MONTHS and it cost $20 :M, the shortest has been one week..

You also can not get super uber bright LEDs, you know something that competes more on 40W and above in incadescent but yet you can find lots of super bright CFLs which are in excess of 350W of incadescent brightness.

Take a good look at CFLs future, it is EXTREMELY bright...

85W CFL link

Specs are as follows..

85-Watt, 5200 Lumens, 80 CRI
350-Watt Incandescent Equivalent
10,000 Hour Average Lamp Life
6500K Color Temperature, Daylight Color, Medium Base

$27.95

To get a LED light to get close to that brightness you would literally have to buy 520 of the BEST LED lights costing you at the min of $2600 :E ($5 per 100 lumens).

That 85W CFL rocks, I put one in my garage last summer, used it last winter and this summer and so far is still working.

They make even brighter CFLs to boot.

NinerBikes
Explorer
Explorer
ktmrfs wrote:
I have some LED recessed floods and they are bright, same color as halogens, dimmable, and very pleasing color rendition. (Costco had them). In fact, just for a comparison I left one 75W halogen in the kitchen and the other 9 floods were the LED. Walking into the room, it was very difficult to point out the one halogen. Brightness and color were very good.

Initially LED bulbs had 3 emitters, red, green, and blue with very narrow spectrum so no matter what, the color didn't appear very white. Some then added yellow to help but the same basic problem, 3 (or 4) very narrow spectral lines, not like "normal" light.

so, finally the solution. Use a phosphor coating like they do on floresent bulbs on the LED case surface. the LED excites the phosphor which then emits light at a variety of wavelengths, like a florescent bulb does. Now the spectrum is filling in and the output is much more like natural light. Couple that with varying the brightness of the 3 or 4 emitters and choosing phosphors and it is like floresents where you can make almost any color temperature you want pretty easily.

I suspect there is a very slight hit in efficiency, but more than made up for in the color of the light. And the CREE LED's seem to be continually improving in efficiency as well.

My prediction is that the LED's within one, maybe two years will be priced like the CFL's today and the CFL's will disappear quickly.


Not if, but when.

ktmrfs
Explorer II
Explorer II
I have some LED recessed floods and they are bright, same color as halogens, dimmable, and very pleasing color rendition. (Costco had them). In fact, just for a comparison I left one 75W halogen in the kitchen and the other 9 floods were the LED. Walking into the room, it was very difficult to point out the one halogen. Brightness and color were very good.

Initially LED bulbs had 3 emitters, red, green, and blue with very narrow spectrum so no matter what, the color didn't appear very white. Some then added yellow to help but the same basic problem, 3 (or 4) very narrow spectral lines, not like "normal" light.

so, finally the solution. Use a phosphor coating like they do on floresent bulbs on the LED case surface. the LED excites the phosphor which then emits light at a variety of wavelengths, like a florescent bulb does. Now the spectrum is filling in and the output is much more like natural light. Couple that with varying the brightness of the 3 or 4 emitters and choosing phosphors and it is like floresents where you can make almost any color temperature you want pretty easily.

I suspect there is a very slight hit in efficiency, but more than made up for in the color of the light. And the CREE LED's seem to be continually improving in efficiency as well.

My prediction is that the LED's within one, maybe two years will be priced like the CFL's today and the CFL's will disappear quickly.
2011 Keystone Outback 295RE
2004 14' bikehauler with full living quarters
2015.5 Denali 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison
2004.5 Silverado 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison passed on to our Son!

tenbear
Explorer
Explorer
To much $$$ for me, maybe when they get down to $5.
Class C, 2004/5 Four Winds Dutchman Express 28A, Chevy chassis
2010 Subaru Impreza Sedan
Camped in 45 states, 7 Provinces and 1 Territory

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Seen these or similar in stores. Holding out for 50/100/150w equivalent and a lower price.

SCVJeff
Explorer
Explorer
Ditto with the CREE (its dimmable)
And under 15 bux
Jeff - WA6EQU
'06 Itasca Meridian 34H, CAT C7/350

Wayne_Dohnal
Explorer
Explorer
I've got a "75 watt equivalent" PAR30 LED lamp that draws 15 watts. From the non-scientific visual test it lives up to the 75 watt equivalent claim. Most that I've tried do not. It was about 15 bucks at Costco. Works good with a standard dimmer, too.
2009 Fleetwood Icon 24A
Honda Fit dinghy with US Gear brake system
LinkPro battery monitor - EU2000i generator