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Headlights flickering when generator is running

nicksmarto
Explorer
Explorer
Symptoms: We were traveling down the road the other day, and we decided to start the generator to use the microwave while in motion. Less than a minute later, the vehicles headlights went dim, then out, then dim (I held the high-beams on for emergency lighting). Eventually, we shut the generator off and the problem went away.

We simply canโ€™t figure out why!

We have a a bit of an odd AC electrical arrangement in the coach. We have a two automatic transfer switches; 1st supplies coach power between two sources: shore power and generator. This is the usual switch most coaches have. The second converter supplies convenience outlets between two sources: an onboard inverter and the output of the 1st transfer switch. This allows the inverter to supply outlets in the coach without the risk accidentally trying to run big appliances from the inverter.

But this issue, realistically, would be on the 12v side of things.

I donโ€™t know much about the isolator/solenoid setup on this RV. I know Iโ€™ve accidentally sparked the bottom terminal from the isolator when changing the oil (dipsticks are quite conductive, FYI). However, even if this part was damaged, it would presumably either fail closed or fail open. If it was closed (coach battery and chassis battery were in line, expected when the engine is running), then converter would be simultaneous trying to charge both batteries. But, it would be the only way that AC activities could interfere with the 12v system, as least as far as I can imagine. I donโ€™t see a problem with this, but if something (especially during the aforementioned shorting incident) causes a bad ground somewhere, that could conceivably be the root cause.

Can the community give me some ideas of things to check/test to pinpoint this issue?
5 REPLIES 5

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
If the isolator is one of the three posted blue type, you may have blown a diode. The coach power is now back-feeding into the chassis system.
I do not care for the diode style isolators. A relay style is better.
Ones like this Battery switch

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Do this in your diveway.

Use a test light. See what chassis loads flicker and what doesn't. A 50 watt 12-volt bulb would be easier but what the heck.

nicksmarto
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks gang, sorry for lack of info.

I have a 1999 Jayco Eagle 232U on a 1999 E350 chassis, V10 Triton.

No, no recent re-wiring. Only that brief spark between the isolater and the dipstick. Genset is up front.

Didn't notice the dash voltmeter (admittedly, I was panicking about going down a hard road with no headlights), but I did notice that the dash lights themselves were also impacted, so this isn't a bus-specifc problem, but rather one affecting a larger portion of the chassis 12v system.

wolfe10
Explorer
Explorer
That is a very strange one.

What was your dash voltmeter doing with this occurred?

As you say, the headlights are 12 VDC.

The only "interface" between them and the generator is that the generator is powering the inverter/charger which will be charging the batteries IF the voltage for the inverter charger is set above that of the alternator.

Can't see how it could LOWER voltage.

Have you done any rewiring recently?
Brett Wolfe
Ex: 2003 Alpine 38'FDDS
Ex: 1997 Safari 35'
Ex: 1993 Foretravel U240

Diesel RV Club:http://www.dieselrvclub.org/

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
1. Always post year, brand and model of RV.
2. Odds are you have a floating ground and when the APU (genset) is running a loose ground (floating) is pulling the ground from the Headlamp circuit. Is the Genset up front ? Doug