HELP CLASS B SHORE POWER ISSUE 220/110

I am not familiar with a Born Free RV, but After reading your post it appears to me that you need to contact a qualified electrician to help with your problem. A 220V 30A receptacle is different from a 110V 30A RV receptacle. Your RV plug should not of gone into the "Welder" receptacle as they are different.

I am not sure what you mean when saying, "I converted to the proper plug".

Outlets,microwave, TV are usually 120VAC if they are working it is probably from an inverter.

Finally have you checked the receptacle in the shed with a VOM to see if there is power there? JMO

You need to look carefully at the receptacle. Look for either the NEMA designation or voltage and amperage. Post that information.
A 30 TT male cord body cannot be plugged into a 30 amp 220 receptacle.
Receptacle to be correct should be angle blades with a round ground pin. This is a NEMA 30 TT receptacle.

sorry guys let me explain. the shed had a "welder" plug that i looked at and followed to the breaker box where i found it to be a 30amp. I did not know there was 220 30 amp and 110 30 amp. I went to lowes and bought the rv receptacle that matched my shore plug and I installed it where the welder plug was. I found later (after calling my much more qualified dad) that it was a 220 30amp double pole breaker, so the black and white wire were both hot. I went back to lowes and got the proper 30amp single pole breaker and wired it properly for 110. With all that done my rv does not recognize when i am plugged into shore now. As stated earlier though all my appliances and plugs, tv etc seem to be working properly. I can not check the ac which is my biggest worry. I have flipped all breakers and after scouring the net from when it happened until now, I am thinking my next step is to see if fuses in the converter are toast. I did not get any burnt smell. My converter does have a hum to it when on, but i have only owned this thing for a few days so maybe that is normal :( thanks for your help and quick responses guys

Check the output voltage of the converter. Should be about 13.6 volts DC.
As long as you have verified 120 vac at the outlet then all should be fine to test.

time2roll ok ill try that in the morning you mean w the shore plugged in correct?. Just want to add that my converter is a freedom 10 by heart interface and it has an on off switch on it. I also have a "main" panel that i have to turn on for my 110 plugs, microwave, tv and things to come on when i am not connected to shore. One funny thing i have noticed is if i turn on the main panel switch the converter hums even when the on/off switch on it is "off". I am so sorry to sound like such a noob but i am to shore power and to forums. I literally brought this truck home 3 days ago.

I don't know what device on your RV says "AC Connected" but you have almost certainly destroyed that. If you are very, very, very, very lucky, that is all you have destroyed. If that fried before letting 220v into anything else, count your blessings. I am willing to bet that everything that is working, is working off of an inverter, and doesn't help us except to show that that appliance is not damaged.

Find out what device is supposed to report "AC Connected" and let us know. (While it is too late for this episode, a Progressive Industries EMS-PT30X would have prevented any damage to your RV.)

Yes the converter needs 120vac to produce the 13.6 vdc.
I am not familiar with your setup but again if the supply has been corrected to 120 volts it is fine to test.
What does not work needs repair or replacement.

Actually plugging a 30 amp RV into 240 vac is a fairly common post :(

God this is such a nightmare. Thanks so much these forums give me a little hope. Here is a picture of the front of my inverter and one of that panel i was telling you about that has the ac connected light. These are stock pics from the internet because its to dark outside at the moment. I will start testing tomorrow.
Sorry having trouble seeing how to attach pictures so here are the links to them.

You need to sort this out a bit.

1. You said "everything else still works (lights, outlets, microwave, tv) on dc"

There are 2 systems in the camper. AC and DC. Microwave, A/C, 120V outlets, and the power converter are powered by the shore power cable. The fridge has a 120V mode but should be OK if it wasn't on.

The lights, fans, gas appliances run on the DC. There are two sources for DC, the battery and the power converter.

2. When not plugged in, are the water heater, fridge, furnace, CO detector, water pump, and lights working?

With the camper plugged in, you will need to measure the voltage at the battery. If it is about 13.4V, the converter is still working. If it is 12.x or less you may have damaged it.

3. You said "it didnt move to "ac connected".

What didn't move? Sounds like you are talking about a control panel display.

If everything is actually working on both AC and DC systems then maybe all you zapped was the control panel display.

Sorry guys i know very little but i am learning quickly. Yes I was talking about a control panel display. when i turn on said control panel (no shore power plugged in) I can operate the microwave, lights, fans, 110 outlets, tv etc. When that panel is off i can turn on lights but I think that is it (microwave and outlets stop working when panel is switched off), I will have to check tomorrow, My rv has no water and i don't even know how to check the furnace. I can also check the co detector. When you say check the battery are you talking about the one under the hood or the 2 deep cycle ones? Also when checking battery should truck be running or no?