Help please!

[GSHenn]

We have a 2006 coachman. I have interior and exterior lights. No fridge, fan, a/c or furnace. Checked all fuses and breakers seem to be fine. Battery was completely dead so disconnected it. The pump barely turned on but still nothing else. Does anyone think converter needs replaced?

[silvercorvette]

ksg5000 wrote:

GSHenn wrote:
As you probably have guessed I'm a girl, talking forum husband. We took the battery to whete we got it and it tested good and boost charged it at walmart. The disconnect switch are you talking about a breaker?

Many rigs come with a switch that when triggered will activate a solenoid that takes the batteries out of the loop - it's used when storing the rig and prevents the various alarms and other items from slowly depleting the battery while it's stored. The location of the switch is almost always inside the rig and it varies depending on mfg - some are near the entry door - mine is located under the dashboard near the drivers knee.

My Holiday Rambler 5th wheel does have a switch, the Jayco 5th wheel did not have one but it only took a minute to remove the cable wire

[ktmrfs]

GSHenn wrote:
It's a wfco 8955 . The battery was connected over the winter and of course is dead. On our last camping trip last fall everything was fine. Saturday night went to bed, woke up Sunday morning no heat or fridge. If I'm hooked to shore power dead battery shouldn't matter or does the dead battery keep the converter from working ? New to this stuff sorry. Anything helps. Just do t want to be out the money if its really something stupid.

It's a WFCO... CLUE number 1!.

WFCO's aren't known for outstanding reliability. Not terrible, but not one of the more reliable units either.

However the mfg CLAIMS they will output 13.6V @30+A w/o a battery connected. I'd check to see if it is getting AC and then what the output voltage is.

If it's bad, do yourself a favor and replace it with a PD drop in or boondocker drop in replacement.

[silvercorvette]

Two years ago I was in a hurry and left the battery connected when I put the camper in the storage yard. When I came back about 10 days later the battery was weak but not dead. At the end of the season I remove the battery, bring it home and connect it to a Battery Tender, If I am in a hurry I disconnect the wires, the new (2009 Alumascape) camper I just bought has a disconnect switch. A conventional charger will harm the battery if it is plugged in for a long time, a smart charge like the Battery Tender will not over charge the battery. The deep cycle batteries are designed to be able to withstand many cycles of of being completely or almost completely drained but even a battery that is designed to withstand numerious discharges that would kill a normal batter will eventually be killednfrom to many deep discharges.

[GSHenn]

Had a corroded ground under trailer. Cleaned it up and there is 12 volt coming into trailer when running off the battery.yhe only two things not working still are the furnace/fan fridge.

[GSHenn]

All circuits on everything check ok with voltage. Can't even get fridge to ignite on lp?

[ksg5000]

GSHenn wrote:
As you probably have guessed I'm a girl, talking forum husband. We took the battery to whete we got it and it tested good and boost charged it at walmart. The disconnect switch are you talking about a breaker?

Many rigs come with a switch that when triggered will activate a solenoid that takes the batteries out of the loop - it's used when storing the rig and prevents the various alarms and other items from slowly depleting the battery while it's stored. The location of the switch is almost always inside the rig and it varies depending on mfg - some are near the entry door - mine is located under the dashboard near the drivers knee.

[MNtundraRet]

The switch to connect the House-battery to the 12v circuit is usually on the monitor panel (water tank level, battery level, propane level). The switch might be marked: power, aux., battery. If button is pushed up the panel should work, along with 12v lights, etc.

On some RV's the panel may work when plugged in, BUT; the house-battery will not charge if not connected to the 12v circuit.

Test the 120v, ac, outlet you plug the RV into by plugging in a lamp, hair-drier, etc., to see if it is working. If yes, plug the RV cord into it and you should find the outlets working in the RV, along with the microwave. If not check the circuit breaker in the house.

Other items like furnace, air-conditioner, 12v lights, need a battery connected and/or a working converter/charger. Thermostats are 12v powered.

[GSHenn]

I'm worn out. Brother in law coming tomorrow to help test. He said no way could they charge that battery in an hour. We will charge it tomorrow unless they toasted it!

[GSHenn]

As you probably have guessed I'm a girl, talking forum husband. We took the battery to whete we got it and it tested good and boost charged it at walmart. The disconnect switch are you talking about a breaker?

[MNtundraRet]

Is the disconnect switch still off? How did you get a dead battery charged in less than 4 hours?

Did you get the MH plugged back in? Are you seeing 13.8 or more volts at the battery terminals while plugged in?

[GSHenn]

Could the thermostat be bad?

[GSHenn]

Ok battery tested good and charged. Got a pump but still no fan/ fridge. Now what?

[hershey]

If the battery was plugged in all winter and it rand down, you have probably ruined the battery.
Pull the battery, use a battery charger and charge fully it it will indeed take a charge and let it sit for 4 to 6 hours. If the voltage drops below 12.6 without a load of any type then you need a new battery.
Or just bite the bullet and buy a new battery.

[GSHenn]

You all have been awesome! Gonna replace the battery and see what happens. Keep you posted.