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Help! Power Converter stopped charging batteries.

hippyguy03
Explorer
Explorer
So, I just did something very stupid.. While reconnecting my RV batteries, I accidentally mixed up the positive and negative terminals and left it that way for about 5 minutes until I finally noticed and reconnected them correctly. Ever since then, whenever I'm plugged into shore power (or generator) all the outlets will work fine, and the DC powered items (lights, fan, etc) all work correctly, however the batteries no longer are charging. All the fuses and breakers seem good, and I don't see any damaged wires or anything.. and clues where I should start next?

Side note, the CD/Radio player has stopped working, and that fuse also looks fine, so I'm suspecting it was damaged with the mixup, or its not getting power for some reason. I can diagnose that another time, but the battery chargers are most important! I will post a picture of the unit and diagram - I believe the power converter is the 2nd breaker as labeled.

Picture 1

Picture 2

Picture 3
17 REPLIES 17

hippyguy03
Explorer
Explorer
In the end, I went ahead and upgraded to the Progressive Dynamics model PD4635V, got a new but open box from Amazon for $120, install was very easy and straightforward. Thanks for the advice everyone!

Dtank
Explorer
Explorer
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Again!

Any WFCO product is the YUGO of the genre. Renault "Daphne". Pabst Blue Ribbon, Table Maid Margarine, Douglas tire brand,.....



Is "Brew 102" on the list - or not?...:@

BTW - Tire Company name (sold cheap retreads, etc.) - Huntington Beach, CA. - "May Tire Company".

......the original - "May Pop Tires" !!

:W

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Again!

Any WFCO product is the YUGO of the genre. Renault "Daphne". Pabst Blue Ribbon, Table Maid Margarine, Douglas tire brand, and whatever else anything inferior.

WFCO, the company who uses a solid block of aluminum for a heatsink, and places a fan all the way across the other side of a circuit board from heat sensitive components. Their engineers come from places like the University of Somalia or Yemen.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Of the various upgrade options, IMO stay away from the "Ultra", which is a WFCO, and the 7300, which is much better than the 6300, but is still single stage 13.8v.

There are other choices. I chose to keep the 6345's fuse panel in the 1991 MH, and jumper it so it is not "split". I have a deck mount converter in there, which has its own RP fuses.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
I got frustrated at the ever-increasing out of stock inventory of rectifiers and substituted 70-amp silicon stud rectifiers.

The even more ancient ferro resonant converter rising voltage issue now costs $200+ to replace the computer type capacitors.

The CHEAPEST way to go (because this rig seems to be a power pole princess) is the 400-series Megawatt. Chop AC power to the Magnatek and reconnect the Megawatt AC input terminals. Extend Megawatt 12 vac power outlet to original fuse panel 12vdc power inlet.

For permanent PPPrincess duty set voltage at 13.5

Sixty bucks and it's an infinitely better system than the original.

Clean battery terminals. PAINT positive terminal and nearby battery case RED.

Do the negative with GREEN.

Then spray anti corrosion coating over everything.



If the battery sees cycling duty the above will not work. Use a modern converter.

Chris_Bryant
Explorer II
Explorer II
As others have said, good time to upgrade, but if you want to try to fix what you have all of the manuals and info can be found at http://parallaxpower.com/archived-tech-docs/, scroll down to 6300 series.
-- Chris Bryant

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
hippyguy03 wrote:
I have two Duracell 6v golf cart batteries from Sam's Club wired in series, and the old converter worked fine for my needs. How much better will a new converter be? I also plan on adding either one or two 24v solar panels with an MPPT charge controller, as well as a pure sine inverter.. How much will I benefit from a new unit? I see a deal on a Progressive Dynamics PD4635V.
The PD will charge at least 10x faster if you run a generator. PD will give a better maintenance charge and will better fully charge your batteries to avoid sulfation and perform better for more years. You can go bigger but if you do you need to review the wire size on the charging circuit and possibly pull new wire. 35 amps is plenty and allows use of a smaller 1000w generator if needed.

Solar will also get the batteries properly charged when the sun is shining. I assume you will have 400/500 watts and that is excellent for off-grid camping.

I recommend a smaller inverter of 150 to 350 watts. I like GoPower and Victron.

road-runner
Explorer III
Explorer III
I'm guilty of not looking at the photos before posting an answer, to see which model converter the post was about. Being that it's very obsolete technology, I agree with the posts suggesting that it just be replaced. This is one of those unfortunate losses where you're better off in the end.
2009 Fleetwood Icon

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
See photos here scrolling down--6300 fuse panel--no 30a fuses and farther down 7300 fuse panel with the two 30s.

http://www.bestconverter.com/Magnetek-Upgrade_ep_26-1.html

When you upgrade, the 6300 "split" panel needs to be addressed. If you upgrade to a deck mount converter with its own RP fuses, you can keep the 6300 fuse panel IF you "jumper" it so it is not split.

If you upgrade to a converter without its own RP fuses, you need to replace the 6300 fuse panel with the 7300 type that is not split and does have the RP fuses. (as in the link above)

However--- if you find an upgrade that is more than a 60 amper, without its own RP fuses, two 30a fuses is not enough. eg, a 75 amper will require more like three 40s, as you get on a 75 amp deck mount.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
The Magnetek DID in fact have a "Reverse polarity fuse" one of the two 30 amp fuses I believe on the right end of the fuse panel was the "Battery" fuse. the other one is the "Converter" fuse. They are not in the "Converter" section they are on the main fuse panel. This is common with integrated units like the 6300
That said the 6300 is not very good and really should be upgraded. Easiest rather best bang for your buck upgrade is Progressive Dynamics 4600 series. You rip out the magnetek "Guts' and replace with PD "Guts" Still use the same fuse/breaker panel

Want a newer front panel. Go to the Progressive Dynamics web site adn browse. Alas I don't have a link.. Then you can order factory direct or best converters
(link in somebody's reply above)

My RV came with a PD 9180+Wizard.. I'm on my 2nd one now very pleased with it.
(Got my 2nd one factory direct as in I drove to the factory and physically picked it up).
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
YEP........that is an Old Magnetek 6300 Series Power COnverter (6332)

It does NOT have 'reverse polarity fuses'
It uses an Internal Transfer Relay to 'swap' between converter supply DC power (when AC Power is available) and Battery supply DC power

When functioning properly (as much as it could) it supplies DC and Maintains Battery charge state whenever AC Power is on.


****Could have an IN-LINE Fuse on Battery POS Cable to converter that is blown. Will be close to batteries

You can perform a test if the Internal Transfer Relay....see pg 6 of LINKED Manual
Magnetek 6300 Series Manual AND additional info/troubleshooting


DC Section Upgrade for Magnetek 6300 Series
GO with the 45A Upgrade
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

hippyguy03
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the suggestion, I will check the back of the unit.

I have two Duracell 6v golf cart batteries from Sam's Club wired in series, and the old converter worked fine for my needs. How much better will a new converter be? I also plan on adding either one or two 24v solar panels with an MPPT charge controller, as well as a pure sine inverter.. How much will I benefit from a new unit? I see a deal on a Progressive Dynamics PD4635V.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
The 6332 apparently does not have actual RP fuses on the fuse panel like the newer 7300s do. However somewhere there is a "fuse block" with two 30 amp fuses that are for that. Read through this:

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php?topic=24426.0

http://windsurf.mediaforte.com/roadtrek/magnetek/Magnetek_6332_wiring_diagram.html
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.