Honda 1000 will it charge my batts

I sometimes forget that my 1,000 Honda is NEVER connected to the main power cord. It is connected to the PD9245 converter only. My converter has a 6 ft cord on it that either plugs into the original 120v circuit, including the onboard 5500 w genset, or into the Honda. This way nothing but the conv is ever loading the small genset.
I give the credit to "smkettner" for turning me on to that trick years ago, which works great for limited generator power, while still leaving the onboard genset on line all the time.

Dirtpig wrote:
I have a WFCO converter that charges at 50amps. Will the 1000 Honda do this? There will be no other real load on it. Fridge on propane. Led lighting etc. will it be running at max capacity and be loud? Should I pay extra for a 2000watt? I'm buying it for wintertime battery charging when my 300watt solar system is useless up here.

The Honda 1000 will do quite a nice job. I've been charging like this for years. The nice feature of this design is the battery charger will isolate generator from the loads on the battery. The little Honda will pur all day/night.
mm49

That WFCO 55 amper is not going to put out anywhere near that for battery charging. I tested mine in absolutely best case installation conditions with very short fat cables, the batteries at 50% state of charge, and it put out amps in the 30's for a few minutes. The amps began tapering immediately. And the voltage was nothing to get excited about either. I would be pretty surprised if a Honda 1000 would NOT power it. The real problem is that you wouldn't get anywhere.

Here is my WFCO data

nice find smk

Steady state wattage output of the Honda EU1000i is specified to be 900 watts.

Divide 900 generator output watts by 14.4 charger output direct current volts - and you get 62.5 amps ... that a theoretically 100% efficient charger powered by a Honda EU1000i generator could theoretically dump into RV batteries if the batteries would accept that much current with 14.4 direct current volts on their terminals.

Now, if the charger is only 70% efficient - multiply 62.5 amps times 70% and you get 43.75 amps ... that a Honda EU1000i generator could really dump into RV batteries if the batteries would accept that much current with 14.4 direct current volts on their terminals.

The above is one of the reasons I recommend use of chargers that are power factor corrected. These type chargers are harder to find and cost more when you do find them, but they are more efficient and hence make better use of a small generator's output wattage capacity.

IMHO, small generators can be excellent appliances to have along for RV camping if they are targeted primarily for RV battery charging, and with a full understanding of how to best make use of their more limited capacities. We use ours for any-weather any-time battery charging that is - a very quiet 54dB all the time (single speed) and sips the gas at a one-half gallon every 4-5 hours rate. As for other uses, instead of firing up the big Onan the little genny can: Run a hair dryer on low, run the RV's vacuum cleaner, run big indoor or outdoor fans in moderately hot weather, run some power tools, run many kitchen appliances, charge all other small batteries in the RV, and ... get the RV started in the rare emergency of BOTH a too-low engine starting battery and too-low RV batteries.

Of course inverters can be used in many of the above situations instead of a generator, but eventually one has to Pay the Piper when inverters run batteries down ... and that can be done with a small generator run long and quiet with or without the sun.

I can tell you from personal experience....

If you do pick the 1000 and you are dry camping, make sure you turn your water heater A/C coil off and make sure your fridge is set to propane (not auto). If you're taxing the generator to charge the batteries, either of those two items will surely trip it. Took me a few tries to remember I had left my water heater A/C switch on the first time I actually used my generator. Every time I plugged it in, it would show a quick 40 amps to the batteries, then trip overload immedately.

While boondocking, I use a Yamaha Ef1000is, charging through a Black & Decker VEC1093dbd portable smart charger. Battery bank is 4 X Group 27 12-volt.

I start out at the 20 amp setting briefly so the generator can warm up, then I switch to the 40 amp setting. If I go to 40 amps right away, the genset kicks out from overload.

When I do get to the 40 amp setting, the charger will hold that for a little while then gradually taper the charge rate. (The charger has a meter with readout and I also have a Trimetric monitor.)

I would hesitate to try to drive a higher amperage charger with the Yamaha EF1000is. I assume the Honda is closely matched in performance.

Just my experience . . .

Wayne

This is a funny thread. Lots of information that is practically worthless.

Here's the basic formula: volts x amps = watts
The math says that you can only get 8.3 amps out of it.
That's about right.

Use this site: Simple formula for determining amp, volts, wattage

I have and use a Honda 1000 to charge two group 29 batteries.
The generator was chosen for three reasons:

1. Light weight
2. It fits the storage space
3. It will charge batteries

It will run the converter, but of course, the converter is NOT going to supply 45 amps - so the converter will do it's best and the Honda 1000 will run at capacity using ECO mode.

Mostly, the converter can reach 14.1 volts when it tries to go into "boost" mode. I've only seen it reach 14.2 volts once in five years of use.

We don't drain our batteries down in general camping. Once or twice we've discharged them to around 12.4 or 12.5 volts. It takes a couple hours of generator run time in the morning and again in the after noon to get the batteries back up to the 12.7 or 12.8 float level.

(I've installed a volt meter by which I monitor battery condition:)


We usually have two or three laptop computers and cell phones charging during this time.

If you run your batteries down flat, then maybe you should get a Honda/Yamaha 2000.
Otherwise, a Honda 1000 will work for you just fine.

Quote:
I believe the Honda 1000 or Yahama 1000 should run a 50 amp converter with one possible exception.IF the batteries are at like 10% state of charge.
I am told the 1,000 can run a 60 amp Progressive Dynamics
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I believe.....I'm told ???? What w/ these stupid statements ?
Go tell judgejudy see how that works !!