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Honda 2000i Carb Job With Photos Must Read!!!!!

AISURFFISH
Explorer
Explorer
I wanted to share a bit of my time and knowledge of the Honda 2000 I generator. I know that this time of year we all want to get things started and dont want to have the hassle of needing our Honda and having it not work. Here is a 30 minute fix up that will get you going.
This is a simple Carb cleaning and maintenance.
First empty old fuel by tilting the genny over and getting all of the old stuff out of there.


First remove the side panel

Then remove the Air Cleaner cover. one flat head screw.

Using an 8mm socket remove the 2 nuts and 1 bolt.

Once the hardware is removed pull off the air clean box, intake manifold and the breather tube. These 3 parts can be removed in one big piece. You can see where the breather tube goes in photo below.

The breather tube runs into the engine body here.

All 3 parts removed and set aside.

First remove the fuel line.
Slide the Carb off of the two bolts that will remain in the block of the engine. I like to leave the cable attached. This is the Eco Throttle. If you remove it you will have a spring shoot off and if you do manage to find it you most likely won't figure out how to put it back without a trip to a Honda dealer. It's just easier to leave on.

Front side of Carb.

Engine with the parts removed. This is a good time to drain the oil and fill it back up.


These photos show the position of the vent tubes so you can see where they are form replacing. Go ahead and remove the tubes now. Using a 10mm socket remover the float bowl nut. It's the Brass one seen above in the middle of the float bowl.

You can now see the float. The float pivots on a pin it is simply slid out for removal of the float. The float moves up and down and shuts off the fuel to the bowl. The bowl will most likely show signs of rust and will need a good cleaning. There is an o-ring gasket there, you can usually reuse this gasket.

Here the float have been removed.

The main jet is in the tube shown. Use a skinny screw driver and remove the jet and 2 parts will fall out. These are almost always full of gunk. Use a Carb cleaner in a can and blow these parts out really good. Take extra time this is the heart of the Carb.

These are how the parts go back in. Order and direction is important.

At this point use the carb cleaner and spray all of the inner parts of the float area and spray ino any holes you see. Spray into the holes while moving throttle plates and choke plates. You basically want to exercise all moving parts and get the cleaner into everywhere.
At this point put everything back together on the carb in reverse order and put the vents tubes back on.
Slide the Carb back onto the 2 bolts and then run the vent tubes back into the Genset case. As shown below.


Shown about is the Carb back on with the tubes re-run.



These photos show the bolts going back in and the final steps to getting it back to running order.

At this point you can change the plug and give her a pull!!!

I hope this has been informative.

To those of you that will be attending the Mid Atlantic Truck Camper Rally Just ask and I can walk you though this in no time. And maybe throw in a quick seminar if enough folks are interested in seeing it done.
2017 F350 6.2L Crew Cab

Arctic Fox 990 2021 TORK-LIFT FAST GUNS AND SUPER HITCH
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Hundo24
Explorer
Explorer
You are correct, Iโ€™ll take it in next month. Taking in the carb itself makes sense, although would like them to hear what itโ€™s doing. Problem is we need to use it this weekend so ill pull the carb off AGAIN and clean it.

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Hundo24, I hate to admit defeat, but it may be worth having the ultrasonic carb clean service done to yours. Could be less expensive if you explained the issue and only took the carb in.


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

scootsk
Explorer III
Explorer III
What fuel filter is everyone running? Just an over the counter type or something with a little small micron filtering capabilities?
Don, Kathleen
2014 Ram 3500 Crew Cab 4x4 Dually 6.7 CTD/AISIN
2019 Montana 3791 Fifth Wheel

Hundo24
Explorer
Explorer
She ran it 5 days, 8hrs each. Good so far, hers is 12 years old.



HofstraJet wrote:
2oldman wrote:
The OP really needs to be fixed to get those pictures back. I'm sure it was a lot of effort to do this, and it's a shame to just let it go for a few bucks or some other solution.


If anyone has the pics from the OP, I'd be happy to host them if the mods can edit the post to change the URLs of the photos. Just let me know.

HofstraJet
Explorer
Explorer
2oldman wrote:
The OP really needs to be fixed to get those pictures back. I'm sure it was a lot of effort to do this, and it's a shame to just let it go for a few bucks or some other solution.


If anyone has the pics from the OP, I'd be happy to host them if the mods can edit the post to change the URLs of the photos. Just let me know.

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Hundo24 wrote:
... A friend had hers running bad so I got it to at least run just by half opening the choke. I told her what to order, a rebuilt kit, filters etc. she decided to take it to Bliss power equipment in Sacramento. They did the ultrasonic carb clean service for $80 that included oil change. ...
Did that solve her problem?

Wayne


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

Hundo24
Explorer
Explorer
Well, my Honda ran great for three tanks then started the stuttering again. Pulled the plug this time and it was a little wet on the threads but grey in the electrode. Cleaned it off ran good for another 3-4 tanks!!

I so hate this Honda right now. This one must have been made by the same guys who make the F1 engine! A friend had hers running bad so I got it to at least run just by half opening the choke. I told her what to order, a rebuilt kit, filters etc. she decided to take it to Bliss power equipment in Sacramento. They did the ultrasonic carb clean service for $80 that included oil change.

I may just do that? I may also just sell this thing!! Iโ€™m gun shy of converting it to propane, no confidence

cinergi
Explorer
Explorer
Thought I'd quickly share a related experience. My EU6500is (which I use as a backup gen) was running poorly -- constantly hunting and I often couldn't run it in eco mode. I had the carb service/cleaned twice over the course of a couple years. It got bad again recently and instead of having it serviced again, I decided to tackle it. I cleaned it using all the tricks in this thread several times. That improved it, but I still couldn't stop it from hunting or from bogging and dying in eco mode depending on the load. So, for $30-40 I bought a carb kit (all new parts including o-rings etc) from a local Honda dealer (you can also do it online). Once I got the right jet size (I'd ordered one that was too large initially), the thing ran better than new. I couldn't believe it. I can run it in eco mode and instantly turn on 3kW of load (from 0 load) and it manages it PERFECTLY. Unbelievable. I can't overstate it.
I, too, was intimidated by touching the carb of such an expensive machine but a) I was now out of warranty and b) there were enough videos online to help me through it. Turned out to be easier than I thought and the results were far better than I could have ever hoped for.

bigfootford
Nomad II
Nomad II
Glad you got it running! Wayne and I have been through these carbs pretty extensively. We added an inline filter to ours years ago.

Jim
2000 2500 9.6 Bigfoot,94 F250, Vision 19.5, Bilstein shocks, air bags/pump, EU2000, PD 9260, Two Redodo 100ah Mini's, Aims 2500 Conv/Inv, 200W. solar, Morningstar Sunsaver 15A/ display panel, Delorme/laptop for travel, Wave-3 heat.

Hundo24
Explorer
Explorer
I had posted in July about just getting my eu2000i generator and it ran like ****. I ended up sending it back and was contemplating a Yamaha, I didn't as in unison they don't have as much power. The goal was to get two but after the first one with issues I decided to see what the new one would do,another Honda.

New one arrived, new fuel ran good for first tank, then same bologna. Runs great with eco off and with choke half way on, with eco mode. I then pulled the oem screen mesh (wouldn't call it a filter)out and it had some crud in there, threw it away. Installed an inline filter, took the carb off cleaned all the jets, float etc. Put it back together, same chit!!!

I had been communicating with Reddog1 and I went over to his place today to see if we could get this figured out. Pulled the carb, clean, clear, no issues, but still sputtering and dying without choke half on. Reddog1 pulled his carb off and it ran fine on my engine. So, it's the carb, but what's the issue?

So we put both carbs side by side to compare. When we took mine off, the spring on the throttle/eco switch that's under the plastic cover where the eco switch is located was in an odd spot? When I took the carb off last time, that's where it was also. I had pulled up the diagram online before but the carb diagram doesn't show it together so I had nothing to compare until today. Reddog1's spring was in a spot between the two plastic pieces and ( I wish I had taken photos as this may be hard to visualize)had a purpose. So I took it apart and installed the spring just as it was on Reddog1. Put it together and now it ran wide open??

We pulled it apart and the part that housed the spring was too low and preventing the eco servo from moving and 3/4 throttle . pulled it off again, Added a gap so no interference, fired it up and it purred. So basically the part wasn't installed correctly (in china) and Months of aggravation.

Sorry if this is hard to understand, this site is so old and adding pics is a nightmare.

Maybe Reddog1 can expalin it better

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
The OP really needs to be fixed to get those pictures back. I'm sure it was a lot of effort to do this, and it's a shame to just let it go for a few bucks or some other solution.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

mdconvert
Explorer
Explorer
According to this webpage there are a few places that have non-ethanol (straight gas) in California. California Straight Gas

When I clean out the small holes in ports and jets I use the wire from a bread tie. It may do in a pinch for those out on the road.

I've done the propane/natural gas conversion on a few open frame generators but haven't done it on my inverter generator yet (WEN 56200i) and may convince myself to do it.

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Help is available, I live in the Placerville area. Check your PMs.

As I understand, all gasoline in Calif by law is required to have a minimum of 10 percent ethanol. Some stations have more.

Wayne


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

Hundo24
Explorer
Explorer
I used 87 when this started. A mechanic in another forum recommended 91 because when there's ethanol in the fuel your 87 is less. I pulled the plug, it's running lean. Cap has been adjusted half way, 1/4 as some have suggested, no help. Only runs good with half choke. Another guy had the same problem, the Honda dealer couldn't figure it out? I'll pull cover off to check inline fuel filter. We can't be down a week or two. This is new and the benefit with Amazon I can get two Yamahas within two days. Honda isn't want it use to be across the board imo. I've owned over 12+ Moto's and cars power equipment in the past is why I went back. There's too many issues with the fuel/carbs with Honda. Not as many with Yamaha, not as sensitive with poor fuel as we have in California (placerville)

Thanks all
Don

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Hundo24, I really doubt there is anything wrong with the Honda generator. Everything I have read says it is a bad idea to run 91 fuel in most small engines.

What you described the Honda does, shuttering and stopping, sounds like you are not opening the vent on the fuel cap. I suggest you take your Honda to a small engine repair shop and have it checked out.

You say you are in Cailf. If you indicate where in Calif someone with experience or knowledge of a shop might be able to help you.

Wayne


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke