Honda EU3000is will not start

[Thach2264]

Starting a new post.

Bought a used 3000is, was told it has been sitting for 1yrs.

Things that I did to it:
*Carb rebuilt
*Fresh new gas
*New spar plug
*Fresh oil (FILL TO MAX & OVERFLOWED)
*Check valves to make sure it open & close

Symptom: Oil Alert will flash/blink when try to electric start or pull start

Every 10-15 pulls, it will back fire one time. When doing testing the spark plug, I will see the spark 1 or 2 time before the oil alert flash/blink and no more spark. If try to restart same thing, will get spark for about 1s, then no more because oil alert flash/blink.

Measure oil switch to ground = open
Measure yellow wire to ground = open

Anyone has a service manual for the EU3000?

At this point, I suspecting the a faulty ICM, but don't know how to test it. Or the Key switch.

[outincold]

The eu3000i and I suspect the iS power the ignition coil just like the battery ignition of an automobile. Unlike a lawnmower ignition, the coil on the "3K" must have the primary wire hooked up to energize the coil's primary winding. The coil gets its initial power from the exciter winding on the generator when first starting the unit. The owner's manual provides a wiring diagram and the best place to start checking is disconnecting the terminal at the ignition module and back-probeing from that point. My brother gave me his dead 3K in some pieces and I found a bad ground (green)wire. Details upon request.

[NinerBikes]

This is why I just bought a brand new Honda EU2000i... Because Honda Service is exemplary when something minor goes wrong, and spare parts are available.

My collection now consists of an EU1000i for small trips and a paired set of EU2000i's for when I need to run the A/C and microwave.

P.S. Very surprised to find out that newer units have a built in hours meter of sorts with the blinking light at start up per 100 hours.

[PaulJ2]

So wrote:

PaulJ2 wrote:
I still think you will find that the ICM ignition module is the problem. Diagram shows that there are two ways to kill the spark--by the ignition key switch grounding the spark, or the yellow wire from the low oil device grounding the spark. Both cause the coil black wire to go to O ohms stopping the engine.

The diagram also shows that if you disconnect the ignition coil's primary side black wire (at the coil), it will completely isolate the ignition coil from the rest of the circuit... including the ICM.



If the ignition coil is fully functioning, properly installed and the spark plug is equally functional, HV spark will be produced whenever the ignition coil's black wire is disconnected... and the flywheel is spun fast enough.

This does NOT imply that the engine will run, it does however, validate the functionality of the ignition system.

So- Yes I thought of that too. Maybe the only reason for the so called "ignition control unit" is to operate a warning indicator lamp.

[So]

PaulJ2 wrote:
I still think you will find that the ICM ignition module is the problem. Diagram shows that there are two ways to kill the spark--by the ignition key switch grounding the spark, or the yellow wire from the low oil device grounding the spark. Both cause the coil black wire to go to O ohms stopping the engine.

The diagram also shows that if you disconnect the ignition coil's primary side black wire (at the coil), it will completely isolate the ignition coil from the rest of the circuit... including the ICM.



If the ignition coil is fully functioning, properly installed and the spark plug is equally functional, HV spark will be produced whenever the ignition coil's black wire is disconnected... and the flywheel is spun fast enough.

This does NOT imply that the engine will run, it does however, validate the functionality of the ignition system.

[mikestock]

PaulJ2 wrote:
I still think you will find that the ICM ignition module is the problem.

I thought that with mine too so I went for it. Wasted about $60. Didn't do the trick.

Almost wish mine wasn't intermittent. May be easier to find.

[Thach2264]

I thrown in the towel and brought it to the shop. Anyway, will update what the fix is and hopefully not are.

[PaulJ2]

I still think you will find that the ICM ignition module is the problem. Diagram shows that there are two ways to kill the spark--by the ignition key switch grounding the spark, or the yellow wire from the low oil device grounding the spark. Both cause the coil black wire to go to O ohms stopping the engine. Igniton switch is by direct connection and low oil circuit is by an internal transistor or diode juction inside the ignition module.
Remember when they say "module" it nearly always involves solid state devices. I think the difference between 1 ohm coil resistance and .2 ohm is if the engine will run or not. My thoughts.

[Thach2264]

Another question: If the coil kill wire is grounded, that mean the engine will not run. But if measure from gound to kill wire only get 1 ohm, pretty much it ground correct? or all it need is to be around 1 ohm to be good.

I remove the IC and measure from the legs of the coil to kill wire, it's reading 1 ohm as well.

[mchero]

Robert
Do you have a section in your service manual(s) that explain how to ohm a coil to check if it's bad or not? I'm thinking my EU1000 "might" have a bad coil.

[Thach2264]

OK.. So without the elcetrical connected, gas or carb. I aseembly the pully back to the motor and confirmed that with 17.4Kohm on the secondary and 1.0 ohm on the primary.

I start pulling on the rope and check for spark, no spark. I remove the spark and measure the secondary again it is range from 200k to 1.5m ohm??? So I pull on the rope again to make it spin (slowly) and now it's back at 17.4Kohm. Put the spark plug back into the cap assembly and grounded the spark plug. Pulls the rope and no spark?

Does my electrical need to be put back together to get spark???

Robert- it's ok I just log out and I was able to see your attachement.

[robert3]

Thach2264 wrote:

p.s I have some setting that I didnt know, prevent me from viewing the attached service Robert insert.

Send me a Private Message with your email address and I'll send you the pages direct.

-Robert@Honda
Caveat: I work for Honda, but the preceding is my opinion alone.

[Thach2264]

quick little update:

30min later, Strange, now I get resistance on the cap assembly. It first read 21k and after playing with it and hook it back to the IC, it now read 9K by itself and when attached to the IC the total read 17.4K

Strange?????

I'll reassembly the pulling and give it another pulls if I can get more spark than a mere 1s before.

p.s I have some setting that I didnt know, prevent me from viewing the attached service Robert insert.

[mchero]

Awaiting your update! Thanks to Robert for his great support on the Honda generators!!

Thanks Rob!

[Thach2264]

Robert-

Thank you!!! very much for the service manual. I did a bit more test before, I get to read your attached service tips.

I removed and install back the IC and I found that, my primary coil is 1.0ohm (now) and my seconday is 8.2Kohm (@tip of #1 link). BUT when I measure the 2ndary from at cap assembly insert, I get like 1.5Mohm (@#4 link).

Cap assembly by itself = open circuit = no ohm reading at all.

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Generator/0/EU3000IS%20A-A%20GENERATOR,%20JPN,%20VIN%23%20EZGF-1080001/IGNITION%20COIL/parts.html

Thank you all for all the help, I will get the cap assemblya nd report back.