Installing a Norcold 1210 in a 2005 Monaco Diplomat

[McKenziek]

So my 1200LRIM needs replacement and the local RV shop wants $2500 to replace the cooling unit. A new Norcold 1210LRIM is going for $3500 so i'm thinking going with new and installing myself. From what I can see to replace the fridge is pretty straight forward. Disconnect some lines and a few screws. All I want to know is will these units fit through the door opening? Specs say 24" deep but I'm not near my coach to measure the door opening. Can anybody with a similar Monaco measure their door opening? If not > 24" then the front windshield is the only option and I'm not attempting that. All comments appreciated.

[Big_Katuna]

i think my son and I did mine in 5-6 hours. Take pictures, label wires, get shop vac, good scrapers, small electric screw driver. Watch the Youtube vids.

I had no issues and as stated, it works better than the factory unit.

[McKenziek]

dougrainer wrote:


Norcold pays 4.0 hours for a 1200/1210 CU under warranty. We charge 5.5 hours for non warranty. It does NOT take 7.5 hours to replace a 1200/1210 CU. When I do replace the CU, I do remove the 4 doors. Makes it easier to move the refer out of the cabinet and depending on where the refer is in the RV, you HAVE to remove the doors to get it out of the wood cabinet. Now lets work the cost.
R&R the CU $1600 Parts and MY Shop($150 per hour/5.5) $825=== $2425
R&R the refer $3500 THEN the labor to remove the window and disassemble both refers to get in and out $150 at 7 hours $1050 total $4550.
SAVING you $2125. Unless you have money to burn, (I don't) I would have no problem replacing the CU on my unit to save $2125. Now, That said, There IS a problem on older 1200 models like yours. You have to pull the refer to verify, but IF the Foam casing(insulation of the Box) has deteriorated, then replacing a CU will not work as well because the box insulation has been destroyed. THAT cannot be fixed except with a new 1200/1210. Not many have this type problem but it IS out there on some units and all you do is verify the silver exterior and the foam behind it is intact and in good repair. I always advise customers of this potential problem. I have only had one that had the bad foam. Out of perhaps 50 I have done over the past 23 years. Doug

That puts into perspective what I was leaning towards as well. I hope the foam is good. Thanks for your input.

[McKenziek]

Here is my side window (with my favorite sign :B)

[dougrainer]

McKenziek wrote:

Big Katuna wrote:
My 1200 failed but I went the Amish cooling unit route and did it myself with help.

Not hard and it works better than factory. About $1200 with shipping.

I agree $1200 is a bit much for labor. Maybe find a mobile guy if you can’t do it or drive it to Elkhart.

There are videos on YouTube.

The $2,500 breaks down to $1,600 parts&tax (includes new ice maker lines and fittings) and $900 labor. The shop charges $120/hr so 7.5 hours.

As far as the Amish units, has anyone wondered about if Norcold would take responsibility if a fire occurred on a non-norcold cooling unit protected by the norcold recall box??? What about insurance? Something to think about and maybe not worth a few extra $100 bucks.

Norcold pays 4.0 hours for a 1200/1210 CU under warranty. We charge 5.5 hours for non warranty. It does NOT take 7.5 hours to replace a 1200/1210 CU. When I do replace the CU, I do remove the 4 doors. Makes it easier to move the refer out of the cabinet and depending on where the refer is in the RV, you HAVE to remove the doors to get it out of the wood cabinet. Now lets work the cost.
R&R the CU $1600 Parts and MY Shop($150 per hour/5.5) $825=== $2425
R&R the refer $3500 THEN the labor to remove the window and disassemble both refers to get in and out $150 at 7 hours $1050 total $4550.
SAVING you $2125. Unless you have money to burn, (I don't) I would have no problem replacing the CU on my unit to save $2125. Now, That said, There IS a problem on older 1200 models like yours. You have to pull the refer to verify, but IF the Foam casing(insulation of the Box) has deteriorated, then replacing a CU will not work as well because the box insulation has been destroyed. THAT cannot be fixed except with a new 1200/1210. Not many have this type problem but it IS out there on some units and all you do is verify the silver exterior and the foam behind it is intact and in good repair. I always advise customers of this potential problem. I have only had one that had the bad foam. Out of perhaps 50 I have done over the past 23 years. Doug

[Trackrig]

McKenziek wrote:

dougrainer wrote:
The problem is not the door specs. The problem is, the door is a front door on a Diesel and curved at the top half. You will have to remove the drivers and Pass seat to SAFELY swap them out and prevent damage to the seats. You also have the DASH to worry about. It is best to pull a side LR window. That is what I do. You will also have to disassemble the old refer and the new refer to get the cabinet out and in. We also do that. Disassemble just means removing the 4 doors and hinge brackets. Makes the refer lighter and now will go thru the window cut out. Going out the entry door or window cavity cutout will still require disassembly of the doors and door hinge brackets and the optical board. Doug

Without actually being there to measure, i'm guessing my side windows are maybe only 16-18" tall but I could be wrong.

On our 2005 Excursion 39s, here's the side window. I can't measure it at the moment, but it must be at least 40" x 40"



Here's the driver's side window, must be around 30" x 40" or larger.



Bill

[McKenziek]

pianotuna wrote:
So you have a working residential fridge now? Or has yet another absorption fridge bit the dust?

When my propane unit dies I'll certainly NOT replace it with another fussy propane type.

McKenziek wrote:
I've been down the residential fridge option before. Not gonna do it again. We dry camp too much.

For your reading pleasure

This one has worked for 14 years. Never had an issue. Just reached its useful life. ON the other hand I had to replace a 3 year old rezi fridge on my class C Four Winds just before I sold it.

[Big_Katuna]

There is a company making a compressor based replacement unit and that’s what I would have chosen if available.

Taking windows out or seats wasn’t in the picture.

[pianotuna]

So you have a working residential fridge now? Or has yet another absorption fridge bit the dust?

When my propane unit dies I'll certainly NOT replace it with another fussy propane type.

McKenziek wrote:
I've been down the residential fridge option before. Not gonna do it again. We dry camp too much.

[ScottG]

McKenziek wrote:

Big Katuna wrote:
My 1200 failed but I went the Amish cooling unit route and did it myself with help.

Not hard and it works better than factory. About $1200 with shipping.

I agree $1200 is a bit much for labor. Maybe find a mobile guy if you can’t do it or drive it to Elkhart.

There are videos on YouTube.

The $2,500 breaks down to $1,600 parts&tax (includes new ice maker lines and fittings) and $900 labor. The shop charges $120/hr so 7.5 hours.

As far as the Amish units, has anyone wondered about if Norcold would take responsibility if a fire occurred on a non-norcold cooling unit protected by the norcold recall box??? What about insurance? Something to think about and maybe not worth a few extra $100 bucks.

None of those are really an issue.
Insurance isn't going to care if it was the original Norcold, an Amish unit or anyone else's cooling unit. If it burns down because of it they (Ins) will simply pay.
Norcold is never going to pay for a burned down rig unless your ins. went after them in court - which they wont do.

[McKenziek]

Big Katuna wrote:
My 1200 failed but I went the Amish cooling unit route and did it myself with help.

Not hard and it works better than factory. About $1200 with shipping.

I agree $1200 is a bit much for labor. Maybe find a mobile guy if you can’t do it or drive it to Elkhart.

There are videos on YouTube.

The $2,500 breaks down to $1,600 parts&tax (includes new ice maker lines and fittings) and $900 labor. The shop charges $120/hr so 7.5 hours.

As far as the Amish units, has anyone wondered about if Norcold would take responsibility if a fire occurred on a non-norcold cooling unit protected by the norcold recall box??? What about insurance? Something to think about and maybe not worth a few extra $100 bucks.

[Big_Katuna]

My 1200 failed but I went the Amish cooling unit route and did it myself with help.

Not hard and it works better than factory. About $1200 with shipping.

I agree $1200 is a bit much for labor. Maybe find a mobile guy if you can’t do it or drive it to Elkhart.

There are videos on YouTube.

[McKenziek]

dougrainer wrote:
The problem is not the door specs. The problem is, the door is a front door on a Diesel and curved at the top half. You will have to remove the drivers and Pass seat to SAFELY swap them out and prevent damage to the seats. You also have the DASH to worry about. It is best to pull a side LR window. That is what I do. You will also have to disassemble the old refer and the new refer to get the cabinet out and in. We also do that. Disassemble just means removing the 4 doors and hinge brackets. Makes the refer lighter and now will go thru the window cut out. Going out the entry door or window cavity cutout will still require disassembly of the doors and door hinge brackets and the optical board. Doug

Without actually being there to measure, i'm guessing my side windows are maybe only 16-18" tall but I could be wrong.

[dougrainer]

The problem is not the door specs. The problem is, the door is a front door on a Diesel and curved at the top half. You will have to remove the drivers and Pass seat to SAFELY swap them out and prevent damage to the seats. You also have the DASH to worry about. It is best to pull a side LR window. That is what I do. You will also have to disassemble the old refer and the new refer to get the cabinet out and in. We also do that. Disassemble just means removing the 4 doors and hinge brackets. Makes the refer lighter and now will go thru the window cut out. Going out the entry door or window cavity cutout will still require disassembly of the doors and door hinge brackets and the optical board. Doug

[McKenziek]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Norcold 1210 Installation Manual

Thanks, that will be needed if I can find out if it'll fit through the door.