Inverter Causes Quick Surge

¿The name of the dog in his previous post?

The Crown WAS a school bus. Center engine 3-axle. Lucky for me someone else had started to convert it. Removed the seats, had made a beautiful aluminum template of the roof to sides contour with built-in bubble levls. I hired an out-of-work ship's carpenter then went to Long Beach and scooped up over a thousand pounds of Teak from a bankrupt yacht conversion. My neighbor had a wrecked IH cabover with a 13-speed Fuller and I bought the transmission, auxiliary, Jake, and SQHD axle as scrap. The only real cargo capacity is was behind the rear seat. A cavern. A hideout from prying eyes.

The 400 HP upgrade "Dog" allows me to pass motorhomes going 30 mph slower on the steep grade from the coast to Patzcuaro (7,200 ft elevation) Next year I have to take it to Guatemala and renew the 10-year permit.

RichieW wrote:
I'm not trying to be rude, but is it supposed to make any sense to me?

Didn't to me either until I read the response above.

2oldman wrote:

RichieW wrote:
What is Quicksilver?

The name of the dog in his previous post.

I'm not trying to be rude, but is it supposed to make any sense to me?

His RV
A bus conversion
Hint
Not a school bus

RichieW wrote:
What is Quicksilver?

The name of the dog in his previous post.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
The rear of Quicksilver was outfitted with two Farad car boom-boom stereo capacitors to minimize inrush loads.

What is Quicksilver?

The rear of Quicksilver was outfitted with two Farad car boom-boom stereo capacitors to minimize inrush loads.

You plugged a 1,000 watt inverter into a circuit that can only take a 100 watt load and you want to know what went wrong.

Hint, That outlet can only power inverters up to 100 watts..... If that.

Hard wire that kilowatt inverter using starter cable at the minimum Oh, and a fuse, about 150 amps.

You hook your Power Inverter high DC current unit directly or as close to the battery as you can with the DC side. I would also install a 100AMP DC Fuse in this line for your 1000WATT Power Inverter. It will draw around 82AMPS if fully loaded down to full output.

Then you can run the 120V AC side of the Power Inverter using extension cord etc about as far as you want to be away from the Power Inverter without any loses...

I Installed a couple of the multi-head drop cords like shown below with one at the Home entertainment area and the other back near our bed where we like to charge up a bunch of thing and have a couple of 120VAC low wattage devices we use a lot of. I have these multi-head drops mounted on the back of a cabinet top out of the way... These have their individual ON-OFF and breaker protection on the head.



Everyone knows this is 120VAC Pure Sine wave backup source of power...

I just leave my Power inverter running all the time and have the Home Entertainment items plugged into it... It only darws a small amount of DC current when jus sitting there not being used... I would also only use a PURE SINE WAVE Power Inverter so that no matter what gets plugged into it you don't have to worry about the dreaded BLUE SMOKE..

We could easily hide the extension cord running along the wall to get from the Power Inverter ... LOWES also sells some of those snap cable protectors that stick to the wall

Roy Ken

RichieW wrote:
Next trick will be to figure out how to cleanly bring the power from the battery all the way to the back of the trailer where the TV is.

Almost always better to extend the 120v power vs the 12v power.
The voltage drop on the full length of the RV will kill the inverter unless you use monster sized cable.

Best to put the inverter close to the battery and pull romex to the distribution box. Connect with a transfer switch.

It gets to be a tough room when you start taking shortcuts....