Inverter/Converter help?

[E_J_push_n_wind]

I'm looking to add a PSW inverter to my TT, I'm thinking somewhere in the neighborhood of 3KW. I don't necessarily need something perhaps that big however I'm thinking if I wanted to add battery capacity, this part I would not have to do again. Kind'a do it once and be done. I'm wondering if I could get help in directing me on how would be best to wire it? I'm wanting to isolate my converter when I have the inverter "on." I know it is recomended to have the inverter as close to the batteries as possible (for the current draw on 12V DC vs. 120 VAC) however I am thinking of running heavy wire and place the inverter in the enclosure with the connverter. I would like to somehow have a single switch as a cut-out (if that is possible) so as to "turn off the conver" as the inverter is switched on (a single throw switch that does both?). Is there a way to do what I'm looking for? Any help would be much appreciated.

The TT has two 6V deep cycle marine batteries right now. The idea is to have all outlets energized through the inverter realizing that my "power supply" is limitted by the number of amphours available with the batteries I have on board.

[grizzzman]

E&J push'n wind wrote:
Okay, got the inverter and transfer switch. Went to use it on my last outing and unfortunately my converter is tied to my 120 V outlets. Switch off the breaker for the converter and you lose power to the plugs. What I'd like to do is get another junction box with 7 breaker spots. There was a breaker for the microwave, the converter/outlets, Water heater, A/C,GFCI and then of course the main. I need one more space so I can tie the outlets to that one so the converter stands alone. Then I can run my inverter without the converter trying to run too. Any ideas where I can get an AC/DC 30 amp junction boxfor my TT?

I would suggest that you tie the converter power to the "power cord" at the transfer switch. This would need a fuse but it would solve your problem with out adding a sub panel.

[E_J_push_n_wind]

Hey all, please forgive me for the late reply. I like the suggestions, gives me options to explore. Thank you, I've considered the space for another breaker, unfortunately there are no more spaces. The double breaker is a great idea, I didn't even think of that. The interrupter switch is a great idea as well. I think the double breaker would be the easiest and fastest way to "fix" this. I will take a look and see what I can find for my breaker panel in a double breaker. Hopefully I wont run into a road block so to speak.

[westend]

An alternative may be to just locate a box with a switch to interrupt the converter's AC power. If you have a panel board that encloses the converter, you could install a panel mount switch to interrupt the converter power.

[DrewE]

If you have standard full-width breakers, you can likely replace one with a dual combo breaker. If they're all duals already, obviously that won't work, but I don't think I've seen RV power centers with only three breaker spaces.

Bestconverter.com, among other places, sells RV power centers of various configurations. Alternately, just add an appropriate switch just for the converter. A normal light switch would probably work fine so long as it's rated adequately for the current. Failing that, a normal household electrical subpanel would work just as well as an RV-specific one for the AC side, and you wouldn't have to redo the DC side as well.

[ewarnerusa]

Is there room in the existing breaker box for another breaker? There was in mine, so I added it and wired just the converter to it. So that breaker is my converter on/off switch.

[E_J_push_n_wind]

Okay, got the inverter and transfer switch. Went to use it on my last outing and unfortunately my converter is tied to my 120 V outlets. Switch off the breaker for the converter and you lose power to the plugs. What I'd like to do is get another junction box with 7 breaker spots. There was a breaker for the microwave, the converter/outlets, Water heater, A/C,GFCI and then of course the main. I need one more space so I can tie the outlets to that one so the converter stands alone. Then I can run my inverter without the converter trying to run too. Any ideas where I can get an AC/DC 30 amp junction boxfor my TT?

[E_J_push_n_wind]

Okay, excellent! Thank you! I looked at Amazon and I like the GoPower 300W PSW inverter. I've got it in my wish list for a near future purchase.

[time2roll]

That is up to 1800 watts so 300 is perfect.
I have two rated 3600 watts fed by my 300w inverter, no issues.

[E_J_push_n_wind]

2oldnslow wrote:
This will work if you have 15A outlets: 15A transfer switch

I took a look at the link, it says for inverters with 1800 continuous watts. Will that work with a 300 watt inverter?

[2oldnslow]

This will work if you have 15A outlets: 15A transfer switch

[time2roll]

Labeled is great and you may still want to map everything out with an outlet tester.
The real issue would be if the converter or fridge is on one of these circuits. My fridge is and must be put to propane only to avoid inverter power.
Right above my inverter switch I put a label '300w inverter, set fridge to propane'.

[E_J_push_n_wind]

smkettner wrote:
http://www.donrowe.com/KISAE-TS20A-Automatic-Transfer-Switch-p/ts20a.htm

Thank you for the link!

smkettner wrote:
For low wattage you can probably tap into the main 12v battery connection and call it good. Then use a small transfer switch to send power down the branch circuit that powers the convenience plugs. If you have two circuits with outlets you need two transfer switches.

I take it that this will be indicated by two seperate circuit breakers? I hope they are labeled! Believe it or not, I haven't looked at that breaker panel in some time and then it was only once. I'm not really sure what I will find when I see it. So far the only thing I've done "electrical" to my TT is add a hard wire Progressive Industries 30 amp surge guard with a wired remote. That was easy, other than that I've had no need to fiddle with it or anything. All has work as expected so far.

[time2roll]

http://www.donrowe.com/KISAE-TS20A-Automatic-Transfer-Switch-p/ts20a.htm

[E_J_push_n_wind]

Thank you all, I really appreciate the help.

smkettner, both links you provided take me to the same website. The GP 12v 300w. I was hoping to see the transfer switch you are recommending.