Kwikee Step Problem
I am a long time pop-up camper that just recently took the huge step up to a class A. I purchased a 2001 HR Ambassador from some wonderful and helpful folks. I was attempting to solve a problem with the Kwikee step power switch at the entrance door. The 7.5A power switch fuse was blown. When I replaced it, it immediately blew again. I investigated and found that the motor power switch at the entrance door was mis-wired. I corrected the problem and replaced the fuse again and the light in the switch started working and the step light came on. But the steps would not retract. But I could hear a relay click in the controller. And a new problem, now the ignition switch would not retract the steps either. But again, I could hear the relay clicking.
I have read several posts relating to issues with Kwikee steps as I attempted to diagnose this problem with mine. I spent considerable time studying the Kwikee schematics, the HR wiring diagrams, and making voltage measurements on both the motor cable and the 4 way Molex connector at the controller, and everything looked perfect. I was at a loss for what the problem was. Then I realized that what I was hearing was actually two rapid clicks. The relay was closing and immediately reopening. That realization led me to understand that the controller was sensing overcurrent and turning off as soon as it turned on. Turned out to be the coach batteries were a little low at about 11.2 VDC and the motor couldn't start and that caused the current spike that the controller interpreted as the mechanism reaching the end of travel. I suspect the brushes on the motor are well worn and need to be replaced. But as a new RV'er, I learned a valuable lesson about how to interpret the coach battery level meter. Two lights out of four is not very good for operating anything except for lights.
I have read several posts relating to issues with Kwikee steps as I attempted to diagnose this problem with mine. I spent considerable time studying the Kwikee schematics, the HR wiring diagrams, and making voltage measurements on both the motor cable and the 4 way Molex connector at the controller, and everything looked perfect. I was at a loss for what the problem was. Then I realized that what I was hearing was actually two rapid clicks. The relay was closing and immediately reopening. That realization led me to understand that the controller was sensing overcurrent and turning off as soon as it turned on. Turned out to be the coach batteries were a little low at about 11.2 VDC and the motor couldn't start and that caused the current spike that the controller interpreted as the mechanism reaching the end of travel. I suspect the brushes on the motor are well worn and need to be replaced. But as a new RV'er, I learned a valuable lesson about how to interpret the coach battery level meter. Two lights out of four is not very good for operating anything except for lights.
