Loose rivet in Kwikee steps(SOLUTION)
I have a set of Series #32 Kwikee Steps on my rig, the bottom left side drops significantly more than the right side when you step on them. I have found that the top step on the left side has a loose...
Forum Discussion
Since May when I first posted this problem, I have done a lot of research on repairs for loose step rivets and a couple of days ago decided to just take it apart and fix it.
First I tried grinding the peen off and driving out the rivet, didn't work so I drilled out the rivet in stages up to 5/16. I was careful not to drill through the rivet and damage the hole, then it drove out with a drift punch.
The hole for the shoulder is 1/2", the rivet shoulder is 1/2" x 1/2". The part of the step the shoulder fits is 1/4" thick plus the thickness of the step cover. This allows the use of a 1/2" metal washer to ride on the should and keeps a space between the step and the frame.
The hole in the stair frame is 3/8" in diameter and the frame is 1/4" thick. Both these holes appeared to be uniform and without any wear.
The method I chose to make the repair was to use a 3/8"-16 x 1.5" grade 8 bolt, a 1/2" OD x 3/8"ID x 1/2" sleeve, two washers and a nyloc nut. The difference in the feel of the steps is amazing.
I used a Grade 8 bolt, washers and nut because I have found that mild steel bolts with rolled threads tend to be significantly undersized and Grade 8 bolts, in general have cut threads. In my opinion Grade 8 were not necessary for strength nor to prevent wear. LCI used a phosphorous bronze bushing in their repair kit plus the shear force is nowhere near being great enough to require the Grade 8 bolt, I used it just for a better fit for the sleeve.
Looking at the rivet, it seems that it was peened of center which caused the shank to deform unevenly and was tilted to one side. The shoulder did not seat completely on the step frame but was on an angle. the wear appeared to be on the shoulder of the rivet and not to the mounting hole.
First I tried grinding the peen off and driving out the rivet, didn't work so I drilled out the rivet in stages up to 5/16. I was careful not to drill through the rivet and damage the hole, then it drove out with a drift punch.
The hole for the shoulder is 1/2", the rivet shoulder is 1/2" x 1/2". The part of the step the shoulder fits is 1/4" thick plus the thickness of the step cover. This allows the use of a 1/2" metal washer to ride on the should and keeps a space between the step and the frame.
The hole in the stair frame is 3/8" in diameter and the frame is 1/4" thick. Both these holes appeared to be uniform and without any wear.
The method I chose to make the repair was to use a 3/8"-16 x 1.5" grade 8 bolt, a 1/2" OD x 3/8"ID x 1/2" sleeve, two washers and a nyloc nut. The difference in the feel of the steps is amazing.
I used a Grade 8 bolt, washers and nut because I have found that mild steel bolts with rolled threads tend to be significantly undersized and Grade 8 bolts, in general have cut threads. In my opinion Grade 8 were not necessary for strength nor to prevent wear. LCI used a phosphorous bronze bushing in their repair kit plus the shear force is nowhere near being great enough to require the Grade 8 bolt, I used it just for a better fit for the sleeve.
Looking at the rivet, it seems that it was peened of center which caused the shank to deform unevenly and was tilted to one side. The shoulder did not seat completely on the step frame but was on an angle. the wear appeared to be on the shoulder of the rivet and not to the mounting hole.
