Minimizing inverter usage overnight

The fridge is not going to heat up to ambient temperature 5 minutes after power is taken from it.

Turn it off last thing before bed & back on first thing in the morning. Don't be getting up in the middle of the night for a sightseeing trip into the fridge.

Used to do this MO with my boat. It had 2 12V front opening fridges. Only used them for 3 night or longer trips but when used they were off at night. We never had shore power when we were out.

not a residential model, it is specific to RVs or off-road Jeep rigs and camping. They run off 36 volts (37), but when plugged into 120v house current still run off 37 volts, and can run off of 12 also, I think as low as 10 or so before it cuts off. This is not a household fridge, It is a special low current, low amp draw compressor, way beyond your house fridge compressor in technology. Well, not way, but it is far better and far more efficient.

The best are the chest-style units as the door is on top and no cold air flows out. There are a few front-opening fridges with Danfoss compressors, and one conversion kit that converts a couple specific propane units to this compressor system (just uses the fridge bos, and replaces all the cooling components).
If you have a way to use a chest, then do that, but most campers will be best suited for the front door ones.

When my fridge fails I'll replace it with a residential model with a Danfoss compressor.

DownTheAvenue wrote:

ajriding wrote:
The fridge should stay on propane,

The OP stated his refrigerator was 120 volt only.

LOL, I missed that.... 120volt-only. the hyphen makes all the difference....

He must have bought a used camper and this was his first ever camper. Many people ruin their propane fridge and try to pass off a cheap dorm-style (like the hyphen?) fridge as something that is right for an RV when they go to sell. This error should be addressed if you plan to RV very much.

The pipes for the propane are likely just capped off behind the fridge, so adding a propane (2-way or 3-way) will be easy. You can get used ones but that is a gamble.

The Danfoss-style compressor fridges are the latest technology for fridges and easier to used and less prone to damage as they can run 30 degrees off-level and be fine. However, you will be using power to run it, so that will compete with your high-draw entertainment system at night.

Look up ARB or Engle, or Dometic compressor fridges. Choose one with a freezer and a fridge if you go that route.

No one else seems confused, but I am. Your heading says 'inverter', but your text says generator.

What do you mean 'use an entertainment system overnight?' All night?

Breakers are not switches and will wear out doing this all the time. Assuming you're talking about an inverter, you just need more battery.

Anxiously awaiting the emergence of the OP.

Circuit breaker off the fridge should be fine overnight provided you don't do any late night sightseeing inside it. Turn the water heater off too. The water will still be plant hot in the morning.

Unless you have some massive entertainment system being played full blast all night it will not draw much. We regularly have a TV on all night with a 215AH battery bank.

Mike77mastro wrote:
I have an Allegro RED and want to minimize late night and overnight generator usage when boondocking. I would like to be able to use the entertainment system overnight but don't need the 120vac only fridge or microwave. I set the inverter to cut off at 11.8vdc. Is there anything wrong with popping the breakers that control the micro and fridge overnight and then resetting them in the morning?

Might need to pop a few more breakers but if that inverter is properly wired (It feeds a sub panel that feeds the inverter powered stuff) will work fine
If you are plugging the entire RV into the inverter pop all breakers save the ones you want powered on ESPECIALLY THE CONVERTER .make 200% sure that one is off. (Double check)

Hi BFL13,

I do see voltage drop--but not from the furnace adding the loads of an entertainment system. I do see voltage drop when I'm running the microwave which draws 1560 watts (~156 amps). Even then, I don't see it get to 11.8 volts.

I do take your point, that with a low number of amp-hour battery bank, voltage drop may be greater. However, I was trying to explain why I thought 11.8 was on the low side, if we accept that no load voltage of 12.3 is 50% state of charge.

c/5 is a good rate for a single 100 amp-hour battery (20 amps). I don't remember how much the draw is on my furnace and I don't think I've ever measured it.

pianotuna wrote:
BFL13,

Because 11.8 is way below 50% state of charge.

11.8 loaded voltage can be anything more than that resting, depending on the wiring to the inverter and the load.

Even then, watching the movie, the furnace comes on and drops the voltage even more. Who wants the movie to shut off every time the furnace comes on? It's bad enough having to turn the sound up until the furnace cycles off!

ajriding wrote:
The fridge should stay on propane,

The OP stated his refrigerator was 120 volt only.