cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

My LEDs

KendallP
Explorer
Explorer
FYI: I have been posting updates for those of us who have already read the OP below. For anyone new to the thread, it might be best to skip down below all of these updates, read the body of the post (beginning with "THE OP BEGINS HERE") and THEN read the updates.

***UPDATE***
(03/07/12)
Z71 4x4 has weighed in on these ~$5 ebay panels mentioned below; the 36-1210 panels vs the 24-5050s vs 1141 incandescent bulbs. His conclusions are as follows...

"The 24-5050 looked green to me and my DW. These will end up in my basement storage.
The 36-1210 were very close to the natural 1141 color, maybe a shade more white (which we like), and seemed a little brighter."

Post Here


***UPDATE***
(02/21/12)
When searching for LEDs that are comparable to the incandescent bulbs they are replacing, the rule of thumb that I use is 1:5, i.e. a 3W LED bulb will give you roughly the same lumen output as a 15W incandescent bulb. A panel that focuses all of the light where it belongs should beat this a bit... perhaps more like 1:6 or 1:7. So a 3W panel might get you the same output as a 20W bulb or so... maybe.

Also... if you want incandescent color temperature, i.e. if you want the LEDs to look as close as possible to incandescent bulbs in color... look for units in the 3200-3500K range. 6500K is more like "blue white." I have one that is 4200K. It's not too bad, but it is noticeably "bluer" than my 3200K LEDs and incandescents.

As always...

YMMV

๐Ÿ™‚


***UPDATE***
36 SMD LED Panels now come with BA15S (1141, 1156) male socket ends. Other socket options here. And then there's this version from eric1514. This 24 LED panel with brighter LEDs is probably a little brighter than the 36 LED panel. Both are brighter than an 1141. The 24 may be as bright as an 1156.

***UDPATE***
(9/29/11)
Dave-Sparky has done some thorough testing on these 36 SMD panels with excellent results for 8 months now.
Post Here

(01/21-12)
1 Year for Dave-Sparky so far


***UPDATE***
06/05/12
Though far from the majority... a few are having trouble with the $5 LED panels staying stuck with their sticky back tape. Below is a solution from Kamphiker, though beware that 3M tape may be TOO good and when LED panel replacement time comes... you may have a problem...

Kamphiker wrote:
Those inexpensive LED panel lights from China are a PITA to keep mounted in the ceiling. The South Florida heat just melts the foam/adhesive that came with these lights (I have seen 94ยฐ F. inside the RV with the A/C off ceiling temps are even higher).

I tried adding a dab of silicone with no luck, Tried hot glue gun stick better than silicone but still failure.

I found the solution, 3M VHB Tape. Maximum Temperature 300ยฐ F. excellent adhesion. There are a lot of sources to purchase (Mcmaster, Fastenal etc.). I looked in Grainger and they have some on closeout like 3M VHB High Temperature Tape

When looking at the tape there are several different ones available, standard is good for 200ยฐ F. & High Temp. 300ยฐ F.



THE OP BEGINS HERE...

I created this thread as a canned response to anyone asking about LEDs.

I have done a ton of research on LEDs and sampled several different types. These are what I have in my rig, and I am very happy with all of them. And at present, the prices I paid are tough to beat.

(The following is a bit of stumping on the merits of LEDs for boondocking. If you're already sold on the idea, just skip ahead to "My LED's" above the 1st photo.)


I have found that LEDs generally use about 1/5 the power and heat of incandescent or less, per the same color type and amount of light. For boondockers, LEDs are a no-brainer. I started by replacing one each in my double overhead fixtures and the light is more than adequate for our family... including the DW. All this for a mere hundred clams.

I later added a few more, but I doubt I'm up to $150. I still have 1 incandescent bulb in each of the 3-double overhead fixtures and 1 in each of the 2 bunk bed reading fixtures. The bunk lights never get used and unless we're hooked to shore, we refrain from using both bulbs in each of the overheads; yet this still allows for more light than we need.

The best part about the LEDs is the peace of mind. I no longer care one bit if lights are on because I know they're drawing such a negligible amount of energy: for example the one in the exterior door handle. If I left it on all night for say 10 hours, it would cost me about 3A. This is less than 1/100 of my total battery bank capacity. A typical inverter uses almost twice the power in standby mode!

If every single one of my LED lights are on at one time (rare)... I figure they're using about 3A. My 13" TV alone uses 6! (The TV is on the upgrade list, but that's for another thread.)

Some more perspective...

A typical 1141 RV bulb is rated at about 18W. With comparable light output, 9 of mine are in the 3.6W range and the rest are rated much lower.

Depending on temperature, my battery bank is capable of a solid 170A before it runs down to 50%. I could leave all 13 of these lights on 24 hours for almost 2 and half days before reaching this point.


My LEDs

I have 8 of these total. 3 in my overhead fixtures, 2 in the closet (thanks to RoyB,) one in the shower and one in the exterior door handle fixture. I also have 2 of the ba15d versions in my little bedroom lamp. Some RFI noted by ham radio guys, but I have yet to experience any. This is caused by the built-in regulator that gives these bulbs a wide range of voltage handling. This should allow for very good longevity.

***EDIT***
6/7/11
There appear to be unregulated bulbs of this type on ebay now. They may or may not last as long as regulated. They may run a little warmer and if they are truly unregulated, they shouldn't cause any RFI... for those who have this concern.

About 0.3A each...

LED Wholesalers on ebay

Most recent find 6-7-11

Also, you might Try These. They appear to have the same LEDs, but for about a third the price. I haven't tried them yet, personally, though. But for the price, I would definitely try one. They also have 24 LED units, which I'm guessing would be more like 1156 incandescent bulbs.

As always...

YMMV





One in overhead is the bulb above. The other is an 1141 incandescent. Both are clearly warmer in color than fluorescent...








1 of these in my range hood. Excellent deal! No RFI. Longevity is yet undetermined. (Update) Note that THEY NOW COME in a ba15s (1156-type) base. Color is slightly to the red of incandescent. The bulbs above are closer in color, but not by a huge margin.

Again, I think about 0.3A each...

A Chinese ebay Store








I have 3 of these in my courtesy floor fixtures. Couldn't find warm white and standard, blue white was too bright. My wife and I really like the amber color of these. Reminds us a bit of the movie theater. They're perfect for us and chew up almost zero energy, I believe about 0.1A for all 3!

Ebay search for "BA9S LED Amber"





Here's one next to an incandescent...





And next to a blue-white LED...








And most recently, one of these in the airliner-style, swivel reading fixture over the couch. They also sell them in pairs for a hair less each. This one comes right to the edge of my fixture. It is just the right diameter. You can see the LEDs, but it doesn't bother me. It is not warm white, but is not blue-white either (more photos below.) Retailer was forthright with light color temperature and I found his auction pages to be especially detailed, honest and accurate.

The bulb puts out a very comparable amount of light to the OEM bulb at about 1/10 the power draw... about 0.2A...

Taiwan ebay retailer







OK. Got some photos of the reading light installed. You don't notice it unless you're looking right at it.













And here it is in action. I took the pictures this afternoon. Of course the only time the sun decided to peek through the clouds today was right when I wanted to shoot. But I think it's clear the bulb is plenty bright for the application. Again... I feel it's very similar in brightness to the OEM incandescent bulb. These 2 photos were taken with the same aperture and shutter speeds. Evaluative white balance was also used for each. Also note that the light color is not blue-white...





More and more folks have now ordered these 1139F replacement reading bulbs and the response appears to be overwhelmingly positive. Here's a thread on it.



Command Electronics has been a popular place to get some panels, but they were always too bright for my tastes. Recently they have added a smaller panel that is similar to the one I have above, but does have the ba15s adapter.



These 21 LED panels are on this page along with the brighter 30 LED ones.


Cheers
.
Cheers,
Kendall
310 REPLIES 310

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
I probably should make this post.

If your experimenting, you could make adjustments to lower your voltage in your RV 12 volt system. For actual application, it makes no sense to me. As I see it, even at 12 volts, the $2 LEDs will not last as long as the 9 to 30 volt units. The 12 volt LEDs will last longer at 12 volts than at 15 volts I think.

If the $2 LEDs lasted 10 days at 24 hours a day, they actually lasted quite a long time (240 hours). Most of us only leave one or two lights on for an extended period of time, typically the dining table light and one other. The others may be on for 30 minutes to 1 hour per night. At most that would be 240 camping nights, not bad for $2.


Wayne


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

KendallP
Explorer
Explorer
Wayne, Jim, Landyacht...

Great contributions! Thanks!
Cheers,
Kendall

landyacht318
Explorer
Explorer


My interior uses the T-10 wedge base for bulbs like 921,194/168 ect.

I tried several Different LED replacement bulbs from VLed and Autolumination but they were all too dim and too blue, and despite little use, these bulbs have LED's which are out. The Light from autolumination does not dim with voltage as do all the others.

In the above Photo, the bulb on the far left was 4 for 5$ free shipping at Amazon. XKGLOW. This is my favorite bulb as it is white and bright without the blue and runs cool at 120f

I bought the 9 SMD bulb (EZMotoring) to its right hoping it wold be brighter. It is, by maybe 10%, but more blue, and a disappointment, and runs upto 150f. I ordered XKGlow's 9 SMD version hoping for same white light color and increased intensity. Still awaiting delivery

The Amico 42SMD bulb to its right is the brightest, and the bluest, but not very much brighter than the XKGLOW, maybe 15%. I have 4 of them, they vary from 140 to 170f

The Red LED bulb I got for my Dashboard gauges. Failed experiment as there are green filters which allow no red light to pass. These bulbs are not very bright, but when placed in my side marker exterior lights, light up the lens better than a 194 incandescent. The Amico 42 SMD bulbs in these fixtures were only slightly brighter, and pinker. The red lens seems to really attenuate the bluish white LED light, but allowed all the red LED light to pass unmolested.

These ZONETECH red LED bulbs run Hot! 180F. An incandescent 194 bulb runs 130f. I have little hope of their longevity with those temperatures.

I also bought a 1156 light for my reverse lights to replace the incandescent 1141 bulb.
Toptom brand with a CREE LED. Suspect QC as there are fingerprints on the lens inside the bulb, and one of the 2 did not work. A new one is being sent. These Cree powered 1156 bulbs would work great in a reading light/ task light fixture. The light is extremely bright and white but unfortunately the blue aluminum heatsink allows a blue tinge to escape my reverse light. I am not sure if I am going to use them for the reverse light. While they might provide more light for me when backing up, I think the incandescent bulbs will be more visible to other drivers in strong daylight when backing out of a parking spot.


All bulbs above were bought through Amazon.

I am still hoping to acquire a ridiculously bright T-10 LED bulb. I think this might do the trick but is more than I care to spend:
http://www.amazon.com/Jtech-7-5W-Power-Xenon-White/dp/B007I75D8W/ref=sr_1_16?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1364359334&sr=1-16&keywords=LED+Bulbs+168+194

JiminDenver
Explorer
Explorer
Having shore power even part time really requires regulated LEDs. However if your rig never gets plugged in, the cheap LEDs are wonderful.
The only time our trailer gets plugged in is if we need to charge via generator. Both it and the solar will raise the voltage up but only during the day. By the time we use the LEDs, the batteries voltage will have dropped and slightly above 13v is the most our LEDs ever see. I do keep some incandescent bulbs in the drawer for the rare instance we would use a campground.
2011 GulfStream Amerilite 25BH
2003 Ford Expedition with 435w tilting portable/ TS-MPPT-45
750w solar , TS-MPPT-60 on the trailer
675 Ah bank, Trip-lite 1250fc inverter
Sportsman 2200w inverter generator

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
I have been experimenting with LEDs for about seven years. All of my exterior lights are LED, including the taillights. I have installed the LED boards in all of my interior light fixtures, including the refrigerator. I am not sure about the exterior LEDs, but all interior are 9 to 30 volts costing $10 to $12 each.

Through the years using LEDs, I have only replaced four interior LEDs and no exterior LEDs. I ordered direct from Hong Kong (e-bay). Great service. They cost less than $2 each, were 12-volt. There was no mention of 9 to 30 volts.

I typically leave two to four LEDs on while my TC is stored. I do not recall ever turning the porch light off. I have done this for years. I installed four of the $2 LEDs in place of the $12 ones, left them on 24/7. In less than two weeks, each of them had LEDs burned out. I am of the belief it is due to the voltage of my TC system exceeding 12 volts. Between my solar and three stage Iota, my Tri-Metric indicated my voltage reached as much as 15 volts. The high voltage has never had any adverse effects with the 9-30 volt LEDs.

My conclusion is the 12 volt LEDs will last only a short while. The higher the voltage, quicker they burn out. They do not burn out like an incandescent bulb, but LEDs will simply drop off one at a time. I think the $2 LEDs have their application, but not in as a main light in an RV. My refrigerator $2 LED still works fine, but really not on very often. Bottom line is that if it is not identified as 9 to 30 volts, I will not put it in my TC as a primary light. A refrigerator, maybe reading light, closet light and that is about it.

Wayne


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

KendallP
Explorer
Explorer
mbopp wrote:
I have two single 921-bulb fixtures mounted vertically on the headboard. As a test I put a 36-1210 warm white LED panel in one, turned them both on, and asked DW for her opinion.
She thought the LED light was brighter than the 921 bulb and she didn't like it for over the bed. But in a dual bulb overhead fixture it was OK.
So, I ordered enough 36-1210 panels do do the overhead lights, and two 24-1210 panels for the headboard lights.
Nice!

Give us an update sometime down the road, eh?
Cheers,
Kendall

westend
Explorer
Explorer
JiminDenver wrote:
I ordered 10 of the 48 1210 panels for $17.99 shipped and in test they seem just as bright and a bit warmer in color the the first set I ordered. I paid $3.29 each for the first set.

Hey Jim,
You probably already posted where you bought your newest panels but could you throw a link up so I don't have to look back through the posts to find it? My coffee is weak, this AM.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

mbopp
Explorer
Explorer
I have two single 921-bulb fixtures mounted vertically on the headboard. As a test I put a 36-1210 warm white LED panel in one, turned them both on, and asked DW for her opinion.
She thought the LED light was brighter than the 921 bulb and she didn't like it for over the bed. But in a dual bulb overhead fixture it was OK.
So, I ordered enough 36-1210 panels do do the overhead lights, and two 24-1210 panels for the headboard lights.
2017 Grand Design Imagine 2650RK
2019 F250 XLT Supercab
Just DW & me......

JiminDenver
Explorer
Explorer
I ordered 10 of the 48 1210 panels for $17.99 shipped and in test they seem just as bright and a bit warmer in color the the first set I ordered. I paid $3.29 each for the first set.
2011 GulfStream Amerilite 25BH
2003 Ford Expedition with 435w tilting portable/ TS-MPPT-45
750w solar , TS-MPPT-60 on the trailer
675 Ah bank, Trip-lite 1250fc inverter
Sportsman 2200w inverter generator

KendallP
Explorer
Explorer
SDurbak wrote:
I ordered one of these with the heat sink today. Also ordered 5 different ones from eBay seller 2011_led who has been very popular in this thread. When they arrive, I will do a comparison and post the results.

Sweet. That would be cool.

If anyone would like to help compile some of the latest hot items like this, I will update them to the OP.
Cheers,
Kendall

SDurbak
Explorer
Explorer
KendallP wrote:
SDurbak wrote:
Has anyone tried these from M4Products.com?

http://www.m4products.com/double-aluminum-plate-in-warm-white-10-30v/

I have just read all 28 pages of this thread to learn as much as I can from everyone else's experience before converting my 921's to LED's. Just got my first TT 2 weeks ago, and am still learning about it all.

Hmmm. Heat sink design. I like the idea. Price seems reasonable with that in mind. I paid more for my first panels... "back in the day" (way back 2 years ago or whatever it was. ๐Ÿ™‚ )

It has 5050 SMD LEDs. Should be plenty bright. 16 LEDs * 15L ea = 240 Lumens. That's about equal to one of my 1141 incandescent bulbs; medium bright, but focused toward the room.

I have buck regulated bulbs and I don't notice any RFI over AM channels. I believe it is more a problem for Ham guys than it is the rest of us.

I say be our guinea pig; give one a try and report back! Be sure to check for RFI.
I ordered one of these with the heat sink today. Also ordered 5 different ones from eBay seller 2011_led who has been very popular in this thread. When they arrive, I will do a comparison and post the results.

KendallP
Explorer
Explorer
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
If I may beg an answer...

Has there been any uncontroversial or uncontested CONCLUSIONS in 15 pages of this thread? I'm serious, and this is meant to be polite...

15 pages???

You're using the 20/pg setting. It's a whopping 29 for me!

The OP is still the most succinct set of data, but there are findings throughout the thread.

Unregulated panels are known to pop LEDs on occasion. The can also heat up and fall when the tape adhesive liquifies.

Regulated bulbs (probably panels too) with voltage ranges like 10-30 have been pretty thoroughly vetted and appear to last quite a long time.

Regardless, at today's prices, for the boondocker, LEDs are pretty much a no-brainer.

Chinese ebay prices are tough to beat. Figure 2 weeks deliver to the states. No idea how long to Bungfleck, Mexico.

Is this close enough to what you were looking for Gramps?
Cheers,
Kendall

malmz
Explorer
Explorer
KendallP wrote:

Hmmm. Heat sink design. I like the idea. Price seems reasonable with that in mind. I paid more for my first panels... "back in the day" (way back 2 years ago or whatever it was. ๐Ÿ™‚ )

It has 5050 SMD LEDs. Should be plenty bright. 16 LEDs * 15L ea = 240 Lumens. That's about equal to one of my 1141 incandescent bulbs; medium bright, but focused toward the room.

I have buck regulated bulbs and I don't notice any RFI over AM channels. I believe it is more a problem for Ham guys than it is the rest of us.

I say be our guinea pig; give one a try and report back! Be sure to check for RFI.


Heat sinks are the key to LED longevity, especially bigger LEDs that do create heat. I have heard of a lot of plate lights where they have a single plate and the tape won't stick once they heat up. Problem solved with these...
01 Fleetwood Discovery 37U, 20' Haulmark Enclosed.

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
If I may beg an answer...

Has there been any uncontroversial or uncontested CONCLUSIONS in 15 pages of this thread? I'm serious, and this is meant to be polite...

bigfootford
Nomad II
Nomad II
KendallP wrote:
SDurbak wrote:
Has anyone tried these from M4Products.com?

http://www.m4products.com/double-aluminum-plate-in-warm-white-10-30v/

I have just read all 28 pages of this thread to learn as much as I can from everyone else's experience before converting my 921's to LED's. Just got my first TT 2 weeks ago, and am still learning about it all.

Hmmm. Heat sink design. I like the idea. Price seems reasonable with that in mind. I paid more for my first panels... "back in the day" (way back 2 years ago or whatever it was. ๐Ÿ™‚ )

It has 5050 SMD LEDs. Should be plenty bright. 16 LEDs * 15L ea = 240 Lumens. That's about equal to one of my 1141 incandescent bulbs; medium bright, but focused toward the room.

I have buck regulated bulbs and I don't notice any RFI over AM channels. I believe it is more a problem for Ham guys than it is the rest of us.

I say be our guinea pig; give one a try and report back! Be sure to check for RFI.


No RFI in AM or FM on all my Buck Regulated LED's. 2 years, no failures..
My 2 WFCO's I had radiated RFI on low freq AM as does my current PD 9260... LOW band AM..

Jim
2000 2500 9.6 Bigfoot,94 F250, Vision 19.5, Bilstein shocks, air bags/pump, EU2000, PD 9260, Two Redodo 100ah Mini's, Aims 2500 Conv/Inv, 200W. solar, Morningstar Sunsaver 15A/ display panel, Delorme/laptop for travel, Wave-3 heat.