Need a forum that specializes in RV frige repair (Dometic)

Watch the videos on RV Refrigeration you’ll know as much as a typical tech.

jkwilson wrote:
Watch the videos on RV Refrigeration you’ll know as much as a typical tech.

Thanks. Will do now.

jkwilson wrote:
Watch the videos on RV Refrigeration you’ll know as much as a typical tech.

I have to say that that guy actually knows what he is talking about!If you look at the vid on Bypassing the board that is exactly what I did the day before. It took me a week to figure out that I could. Recommended reading for sure and If I ever get up that way I'll pay him to fix it! Thanks

The Dometic Absorption Fridge (And the norcold) for the most part there are only 4 or 5 repairs I will list them

Dirty fins (Had that but not totaled) blow air DOWN from the top to clean if you can't get to 'em any other way.. NOTE External fans cause this (Per my Technician)

2: Burner maintenance... Described in many manuals including the one Dometic prints.

3: Electric heat element replacement.

4: Electronic issue (Control board, includes blown fuse and bad wiring)

5: OUCH: Cooling unit failure (JUST put in a new cooling unit) Have that done by a pro. Two reasons. one is warranty on the cooling unit (If you put it in yourself 100% they will say "Bad install") 2: Well I've assisted said pro and I still don't want to do it.

jkwilson wrote:
Watch the videos on RV Refrigeration you’ll know as much as a typical tech.

I agree!
Pat

wa8yxm wrote:
The Dometic Absorption Fridge (And the norcold) for the most part there are only 4 or 5 repairs I will list them

Dirty fins (Had that but not totaled) blow air DOWN from the top to clean if you can't get to 'em any other way.. NOTE External fans cause this (Per my Technician)

2: Burner maintenance... Described in many manuals including the one Dometic prints.

3: Electric heat element replacement.

4: Electronic issue (Control board, includes blown fuse and bad wiring)

5: OUCH: Cooling unit failure (JUST put in a new cooling unit) Have that done by a pro. Two reasons. one is warranty on the cooling unit (If you put it in yourself 100% they will say "Bad install") 2: Well I've assisted said pro and I still don't want to do it.

Fins good
Done the burner, boiler and stack maintenance
Element resistance checked and good and I am actually testing it by connecting directly to AC and it works. Does not work through board.

Fuses on board good and board is new.

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If connecting the element direct to test, leave it connected for 24 hours and see if refer cools correctly. You replaced the Board. Did you use Dometic or Dino? The refer works on LP correctly? Doug

You have posted 4 times on this thread. NOT ONCE have you stated the Model and year of Refer. AND, your last post seems to indicate the refer operates and cools correctly? Just not on 120 volt?

There are really only a few things that can go wrong on an RV Absorption fridge.

Burner dirty/clogged. Routine burner cleaning (An insect loves to nest in gas lines)

Spark gap too wide (never seen it on a Fridge but several other devices)

Bad control board gas valve or propane supply

Bad electric heat element

Tripped thermal breaker (yes there is one look on the "Stack" (right side outside) for a small white button)

Failure of cooling unit

The breaker you push button

The Spark gap you reset per instruction manual
The burner oriface you clean

Blast some air (not too powerful) DOWN from the top to blow crud off the heat exchanger.

Propane supply you refill the tank or replace the regulator or both.

The rest you replace the module.