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MEXICOWANDERER's avatar
Feb 20, 2016

New Project Todefication Of Electrical System

"How much for a Mitsubishi 50/120 alternator? (!)"

Hundred and forty bucks? You nuts?

So I'm going to get Lund & Flynn to wind a new stator for my old alternator. Triple Wye 4-phase eight rectifier type) 16.25 gauge. Hand wind.

Judging from what I saw last week, my 40/90 stator can be remade into a 110/145 model with a redesigned stator. Actually a new one with new laminations.

Three stator taps on the SRE housing (#10 screws, Ford insulators), three #10 spiralled wires leading back to the trunk to a 300-amp 1.6KV three phase full wave bridge rectifier mounted on a big heat sink. Convection cooling will be enough.
My 88 cent 10 ohm 100 watt resistor, a 540 SP reg and tah-dah, bulletproof charging. My output estimate is conservative. I will be surprised if the critter does not output 160-170 amps at the upper end. The surface area for btu dissipation of the tiny stator wire will allow for a cooler unit. And no rectifier and heat sinks to block airflow and add btu's.
A guy's gotta have "something" to do in his spare time!
  • If you add a 2nd alternator does that mean the serpentine belt goes from "garden variety" to "special order"?
  • RoyB's avatar
    RoyB
    Explorer II
    I am going to be faced with similar decisions here as well soon. I am really thinking of installing a second alternator setup much like the emergency vehicles have which is a proven setup for larger current demands for auxiliary battery setups...

    Let the standard alternator take care of the truck start setup that it was designed for and the added second alternator setup to take care of the auxiliary battery setup...

    This will help insure you will always have a way to get back home haha...

    This idea seems to work well with the rescue squad type vehicles and lots of available such system parts kits for the new build...

    I still want to stay with a designed setup operating stand-alone PSW type Inverter/UPS setups and have a good way to re-charge the battery banks when needed by idling the truck motor or running an external generator setup...

    Roy Ken
  • landyacht318 wrote:
    If state side, that driver on their cell phone is quite adamant that the rules do not apply to themselves.

    Seems everybody has a phone in their opposable thumbed p.aws and HAS to use it when driving


    Fixed it for you... double negatives I've no love for. I tend to yell at them "Your car isn't a phone booth, shut up and drive". Screw the scowls I get from their incredulous faces.
  • If state side, that driver on their cell phone is quite adamant that the rules do not apply to themselves.

    Seems everybody has a phone in their opposable thumbed paws and can't not use it when driving
  • Rotor winding fill, stator slot fill percentage, 6303 and 6201 bearings. I may even go with a 17 gauge delta stator. Would like to get a solid 70 amperes hot at dead slow in-gear idle. I don't have the press anymore to rewind the rotor spool to get a solid 1.9 to 2.0 ohms level wind fill. Now that would put me near to 90 amperes at idle. But I forgot, I would need a raw rotor uncut to allow .004" rotor stator clearance. Well something is better than nothing. The car is also going to get 160 or so watts of CREE lighting. Maybe a single strobe pulse of 30-watts of red brake lights to get the driver's attention behind me off her cell phone.
  • How standardized are alternator mounting points?

    The 540HD VR opens up my possibilities greatly to any externally regulated alternator which can mount without modifications, but I am not sure I need to go any further in the quest for more amps.

    Perhaps at idle, but 500 engine rpm when hot is always going to be an issue.

    What did you see last week?

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