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DaltonGang
Explorer
Jun 15, 2015

Norcold 682: Propane Issues

Greetings... Here's what I know. My 20-year-old Norcold 682 frige works very well on AC. So, I know the chemical cooling system works... However, I can't get it to light on propane. I set the eyebrow for gas or auto, but I hear nothing -- except for the thud sound it makes about 10 seconds later before the red "X" is displayed on the eyebrow telling me I've been unsuccessful. I try to light when the interior propane sensor is on and working. The range and hot water heater light easily and "do their things." When my spousal unit is at the eyebrow and I am at the rear of the frige outside watching, listening, and smelling, I do not hear any clicks, nor see any spark on the electrode, nor smell any propane. The little chamber around the burner and electrode have been cleaned. The electrode gap seems appropriate... I have opened the control board and replaced the fuses on the control board and cleaned all the connections on the board and any wires that connect to it.... I have changed out the 3 and 5 amp fuses on that board. A testing light I have lights up when I check the juice coming from the 12VDC.. I have cleaned the contact point on the sealed (and not field serviceable) ignition control board box. I have not attempted to open this box... Whether the two blue wires related to operation in high humidity are connected -- or not -- the thing won't light... I see a green (ground wire for the AC) emerging from the AC wiring that is connected to the frige chasis... I see another green wire connected to a metal component that just hangs there, but I don't see where it might connect... On the propane assembly, I see a tiny valve which I've turned on, but I don't know if it really opens; I hear a creaking, springy noise inside. I have looked for and haven't found an in-line valve between the frige and the propane tank. That seems odd to me. Maybe I am missing it...The list of variables seems endless. Who knows? I might need to redo some stuff I've already done... Before I start ordering stuff willy-nilly from Dinosaur et al, is there anyone out there who can see some things I've missed -- including postings on the forum that have addressed my issues... Regards -- Gary
  • Thanks, Drew... Thanks, Chris... I believe the gas is on. I found a small valve before the solenoid, and I've smelled gas in the combustion chamber around the burner. I haven't checked the propane pressure yet, but the range burners ignite. Gas is flowing... Chris, I'm going to look for a new humidity switch and focus on the ignition control during my tests today... Your interest, everyone, is much appreciated. -Gary
  • Is the manual shut-off valve for the gas shut off?

    I have found, by way of personal experience, that my Dometic fridge operates much better on gas when the manual shut-off valve is not shut off. Sometimes it's too easy to forget to check the obvious things and then spend a long time wondering what is going on with less obvious things....
  • Is this the picture you have?

    Front or back really doesn't matter, as the switch is symmetrical, but I believe it is looking through the switch, from in front of the fridge.

    The red X is driven by the ignition module, so if it's lit, you know power is getting to it, though it could be low. You have my sympathies re the electrode screw. Things like that turn a 20 minute job into a 1.5 hour job.
  • Thank you for your comments, Chris... I spent several hours yesterday using the troubleshooting guide that Old Biscuit graciously provided. I have the impression that the control board is fine. I'm not getting a clear indication whether the ignition control module or the eyebrow board are bad. I have to repeat some tests... And, I have to figure out a way to get to the electrode. The screw holding it in is rusted and its head is shot. A tough bugger to remove to check the electrode.... Speaking of the humidity switch, one test suggested an open circuit at the humidity/storage harness, which I guess is that switch. I managed to pull that tiny think out and found six little jacks (5 in use) on the back. One wire was disconnected and I reconnected it thinking that might have been the open circuit... The colored wires "resembled" the wiring diagram I have for that switch, except one extra wire was yellow and seemed to trail toward the on-off light switch nearby. I couldn't remove the light switch to see, so I'm not sure... One thing that threw me was the switch's wiring diagram that said "Front View." Does that mean looking at the front of the refrigerator? Or, is the front the side of the switch where all the wires plug in? The wires seem to match the notion that the side of the switch where the wires plug in is actually the front... (I need more coffee for this...) Regards- Gary
  • Odds are the ignition module is bad- they can be tested easily at most dealers. I highly recommend replacing with a Dinosaur UIBS.

    The Blue wires just go to the interior light and the heater between the doors- if the high humidity/storage switch goes bad (a common occurrence), nothing will work- no lights, no operation. This can be bypassed by hooking the wires out of the power board together.
  • Old Biscuit... Thank you for the link to the manual... It looks like a promising resource... The first thing I'll check is the humidity switch settings as they relate to lighting the burner...

    Regards - Gary
  • When you select 'GAS' the coil of relay is grounded/contacts close and 12V DC is sent to Ignition Module which then starts ignition sequence.

    HERE is Service Manual with testing procedures....pg. 40

    Got to have 12 DC to control module to eyebrow to ignition module to spark electrode to gas valve to get propane lit.

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