Norcold fridge won't cool

[drillagent]

Hi all. I've searched the forum and haven't found anything like my problem. Hopefully someone can help out. I have a Norcold 1210 in a 2012 Montana. Five months ago our freezer had a large amount of ice on the back wall so we defrosted it. We turned it off and used a hair dryer to warm it up. Everything was fine. A month later we moved on to our next destination and the fridge wasn't cooling. Had a technician look at it and he removed a wasp nest off the LP burner. We mostly run on AC because of my fear of a fire. After he looked at it, it seemed to run ok, but I had to run the temp all the way up to 9 for it to cool enough. Ever since, it has worked some and not worked some. For about the past month now, the box temp has stayed at about 52 degrees and the freezer temp at about 32 degrees with some frost on the back, but nothing is freezing. I have tried running it on LP and AC with no change. I also replaced the thermistor with no change. Current outside temps are mid 40's to mid 50's. And I'm parked in an area with no direct sunlight. I know there is at least one fan on the back because I saw it when I took a picture up the back to make sure the air flow wasn't blocked. But I don't know if I've ever heard it come on. I'm at my wits end and tired of losing money to food that spoils. Does anyone have any ideas or is it time to just call a professional?

[Matt_Colie]

Well Drill,

I hate to confirm this, but the half-life of absorption refrigerators is about 7 years. (fme) The unit only cools the freezer and uses the drift from that for the higher temperature side of the box. The reason you had a big block of ice was that it was trying to keep the warm side cool and having to work too hard to do it.

You can try taking it out and standing it upside down for a day, then right way up for another day and finally power it up and test it. Sometimes, things get confused inside and this is suppose to get them back where they belong. It does work some times (~50%).

Installing one of Leon's rebuilds is not all that tough, and in our tribe they seem to last longer than the OE. But they are half the cost of new.

If you don't dry camp or boondock much, an appartment or dorm reefer is a much less expensive and more reliable solution if you can make it fit. Those units need side clearance for cooling.

Matt

[Ivylog]

Unless you hear the fans running (listen at the outside vent) it’s not going to cool well...especially if it’s in a slide out. Freezer has to get down to single digits for the box to get below 40. If no fans then try putting a fan blowing into the outside vent hole as you have to remove the unit from its hole to fix/replace the fans or it’s snap switch.

[donn0128]

They dont call them nevercool for a reason. If your always on hookups, tear it out and instal a residental refer and be done with it.

[IB853347201]

Time to call in the professionals,IMHO,

[Scottiemom]

You could call Leon at Fix your fridge

I'm sure he would have some ideas. You don't say where you are located, but I imagine you are somewhere in warm weather. Otherwise I would say to take it to him, but he's kind of in the frozen north right now.

He is a young Amish man, so you will likely get voicemail, but he will call back before the day is done.

Dale

[larry_cad]

Speaking from personal experience, It sounds like the cooling unit is damaged and needs to be replaced. If you intend to continue to use it as it is, be certain you have the over-temp safety device installed. This was a retrofit from Norcold a few years ago to prevent the fridge from catching fire, which it can do in an overheating situation. Again, from personal experience, Replacing the cooling unit is an expensive proposition, and it is well worth considering the installation of a residential frig instead. your choice.

[MrWizard]

you can try the above test

you can also try running it propane for at least 12hrs

but it is possible you damaged the fridge

if you always run on 120v and never on propane
you might consider replacing it with a residential 12ov compressor fridge ( if this one has failed )

what do you do when traveling, or is this set up in a fixed location
for seasonal use ? ( in this case ,residential replacement makes good sense )

[wnjj]

ScottG wrote:
No matter what else, a lousy install will result in lousy cooling.

That’s true but in a 2012 unit it’s probably been working until recently.

[ScottG]

No matter what else, a lousy install will result in lousy cooling.

[Old-Biscuit]

Here is what you need to do for TEST of Cooling Unit

Unplug the electric heater element leads from the lower circuit bd.
Check that BOTH elements are good.....64 ohms each

Plug the leads DIRECTLY into the 120V AC Outlet (unplug fridge power cord and plug the leads into the outlet)---4 leads. 2 Black & 2 Yellow
Connect the 2 blacks together and the 2 yellows together....1 set of black into one of the slots on the 120V AC Outlet & 1 set of yellow into other slot on the 120V AC Outlet

Turn fridge ON---and let it run at least 12 hrs
Then measure temps in freezer/food compartment
Freezer should be 10*F or lower and Food compartment should be 40*F or lower IF cooling unit is functioning
If NOT....cooling unit is NOT capable of cooling and will need replaced

IF it does cool down then you have an issue with circuit bd, thermistor,

[ScottG]

I know most people don't want to hear this but I would look at installation instructions and double check the clearances to the back wall and make sure the roof vent has a sloping "chimney" to it.
Rarely, if ever do RV manufacuters follow all the guide lines, especially the chimney part. Not doing so can severly effect cooling of a perfectly good fridge.
Unfortunately the 1210 has limited cooling power to start with so these guidelines are even more important.
The sensor for the fans don't last long either. Mine lasted exactly one week on a brand new fridge. The replacement part has held up so far.