Norcold N8xlt intermittent on LP

[rtreptow7]

We are boondocking and running our 5 year old fridge on Auto. Runs on lp most of the time, but 5 hours a day we run the generator for charging up batteries and other devices. Fridge always runs well on AC. When it runs on lp, it cools well (temp is actually usually 28-30), burner has a nice blue flame, no sputtering or orange flame. but every day and a half or so it will throw the solid red fault light on front of fridge and burner is out when on lp. Usually just turn it off, turn it back on and it lights back up. Might have to do this 2-3 times, but usually starts right back up on first try. The couple times it didn't start right back up on first try, it was clicking and trying to light but wouldn't. I'm assuming because I could hear the clicking that it is what is generating the "spark"? So was thinking a gas problem maybe, but why so intermittent? I did clean the burner out with compressed air. It looked very clean. I had a Winntec regulator that I got a recall on, but they told me because I had a "17" in the date code, it didn't need replacing just inspection. I replaced it with a Camco double stage 59005 and the same intermittent problem is occurring. Could the gas valve not be opening intermittently? Would a bad valve cause that, or something in the main board? I know I probably need to test the lp pressure at the valve, but don't have a manometer, and it's hard to trouble shoot when the problem is so random and seems to "fix" itself by just turning the fridge on and off. Any suggestions or ideas to figure this intermittent problem out? Is it possible the thing could overheat because it's been very warm and we are running the fridge on a the coldest setting?

[rtreptow7]

Update. Decided to change the whole gas train assembly which had the new spark electrode assembly attached already. Been almost 3 days and it’s running without intermittently shutting down. It’s also running noticeably louder. Can hear the burner roaring now even though it seemed to be working before and cooling the fridge well. So I didn’t narrow the problem down to figure out if it was the sparker or reduced gas flow?

[rtreptow7]

Update. Last night got the red light. Turned it on, but it didn’t light after the 10 or so click sequence. Could see the blue spark and hear the gas coming out. Turned it off and back on to go through the lighting sequence again. Saw the spark, heard the gas coming out. After 4 or 5 clicks without ignition, I stuck a lighter by the burner and it lit immediately. Stayed lit all night. It cycled on and off this morning once successfully too. I have the whole gas train assembly, but will try to replace just the spark electrode assembly.

[dougrainer]

For this type intermittant problem, I would replace the Spark electrode assbly. It does 2 things.
1. Sparks to light the burner
2. Then sends back a flame signal to the main control board
IF the Porcelain white insulator for the spark electrode has hairline cracks(Not easily seen) it will degrade the return signal for flame sense. Doug

[rtreptow7]

After two days of working got the solid red light this am. Did the lp test. Everything seemed good. Had all lp appliances on, 5 burners, furnace , water heater, fridge. Flames were good. Shut fridge off with everything running and turned it back on and it lit up and had a nice blue flame yet. Thinking it could be something voltage related, I turned on all dc lights, then shut fridge off and turned it back in and it lit in one spark. I do have a volt gauge and battery was saying 12.3.

[dougrainer]

A quick easy way to determine LP pressure. Turn all the range top burners ON. Turn the Water Heater on LP. Turn ON the furnace. WATCH the Range burners. If they pulsate or diminish in flame your LP regulator is bad. The Spark Electrode for the refer burner. IF it is too far from the burner, the spark "Heat" will not jump enough to light the LP gas. 3/16 inch to 1/4 inch is a good gap. Doug