Oooooooooo!!! Tekonsha Trailer Towing Teaser!

sounds like you are a dealer of sorts

Look at the screen name, read a few posts
He is way south of the U.S. border
He's not a sales agent for anything

Four hall sensors and battery supplied power, what could go wrong? LOL

Actually, this product is very applicable for imports or those domestic vehicles with advanced brake, turn signal, reverse light, etc. wiring configurations where a cut and splice can be troublesome. I see that it supports four wire trailer connections but do they have a seven pin connection available?

When I post in bold font or in quotes it's "obviously" not my writing. Especially when the heading is obviously written in light-hearted jest.

If
It
Proves
To
Be
Durable

This critter will earn a place in the market. No matter how "well" it's done, slicing open a wiring harness on a showroom fresh motor vehicle, gives me the Willies. Using parallel slices, adhesive heat shrink tubing lessens the impact but regardless.

Having suffered junk for five plus decades I am leery of "what's out there". For instance, Bosch "type" relays. Genuine four-dollar Tyco/Bosch relays will outlive the three dollar relays ten to one. When I built Quicksilver I had to translate 24-volt signals to 12-volts for the Tode. I used an incredibly expensive 24 to 12 volt Sure Power Converter. But it did not blow up, neither did the Bosch relays.

Tail

Left Turn

Right Turn

Stop

Marker lights

Chassis negative is really not counted as # 6

Trailer brakes would be # 7 ?

westend wrote:
Four hall sensors and battery supplied power, what could go wrong? LOL

Actually, this product is very applicable for imports or those domestic vehicles with advanced brake, turn signal, reverse light, etc. wiring configurations where a cut and splice can be troublesome. I see that it supports four wire trailer connections but do they have a seven pin connection available?

Bulb on the vehicle AFTER the sensor burns out and NO MORE WORKY of same bulb on the trailer..

Cutting into the vehicles wire harness and adding RELAYS would be a MUCH BETTER way to go..

According to XYZ, "...(insert quoted material here)..."
This format would prevent misunderstandings. ;) I am another who thought you'd taken a job as a salesman to finance your hobbies!

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
... These sensors then detect when current is flowing through the wires ...

If it is voltage from a brake controller feeding an open wire then it does nothing.

I'm not real happy with Tekonsha product. Their prodigy RF unit that plugs into the cigarette lighter in my Touareg ended up developing some sort of internal short such that on the way back on a 250 mile trip, the trailer brakes would activate all by themselves, with no input from the brake pedal. Not only did the RF plug in unit in the cigarette lighter short out, it also roasted a $450 J module brake controller in my Touareg, that was $750 to have trouble shot, and replaced. So a $130 remote shorted out and destroyed a $450 VW brake controller part. I am pretty much done with Tekonsha as a result, they denied the problem exists. Anyone that wants to pull my old Prodigy RF apart and see which rheostat shorted out or came loose, let me know.

Nice. Actually those sensors were described in an article in a magazine when I was in either High School or College... one time Tekonsha Engineering CEO Terry Hampton.. Was a classmate of mine. The sensors today are a bit different, (Better) but the idea is basically the same.

The article was on how to make a Turn Signal indicator that actually confirmed tail light operation.> It consisted of two current sensors (magnet wound around a reed switch back then, Today's current sensors are better) that sensed current to the light, one fed a resistor then the indicator lamp (Dim light, tail light) the other fed the lamp end of the resistor (Bright light, turn/stop lamp)

Good idea. i've often thought of making one.