operating temperature
Hi, It is 93 f outside and my Ford class c V-10 radiator temperature is 216. Is that normal and/or safe?
Forum Discussion
I am intelligent enough to react to problems. A viable answer needs to address specific points not generalities. So then if everything was == equal == an engine for a three axle chassis would operate at the same temperature as the lightest chassis for that engine.
They do not. They "should" operate at the safest temperature within the parameters of engine design and emissions control. Heavy chassis engines, especially as GVW increases run warmer and warmer. Ever see a cracked aluminum cylinder head? Or worse, a basket full of edpm cased sensors or connectors (they are too cheap to use nylon), warp? It is costly. So are group 65 batteries, the Ford favorite chassis battery - the 65 is the costliest BCI automotive battery in the business. And it does not do well at temperatures exceeding 140F
OEM can state anything they want. As long as the engine passes emissions and does not come back to haunt them during the warranty period. But 350 degree engine oil becomes a lot less effective. Remember OEM? The folks that gave the public Ford's self-removing spark plugs? The folks that designed a magnetic rotor shaft and totally exposed slip ring bearing on the Delco CS130 alternator?
You expect THESE folks are sophisticated enough or care enough to maximize engine life and auxiliary component parts? They have one goal. Get it smogged and keep it out of dealership warranty bays. Design engineers are plying golf when an engine's pistons swap holes 15,000 miles beyond warranty end.
The vulnerable only can play the part of the"smart consumer" and learn. Then again they can tune in the Dukes of Hazzard after paying for repairs. I outlined a plan that has very few weak points and I am being hypercritical of myself. Get that engine temperature down to equal the lightest loaded POWERTRAIN that the engine is fitted to NOT THE CHASSIS. if a 205F run temperature maintains the engine within emission limits, and agrees with the lightest loaded powertrain engine heat then that's what to shoot for.
A 20 degree correction can easily add up to a thousand dollars in savings over a six year period. There is LABOR involved in finding a heat damaged sensor. How about a tow bill?
Year one. My toad. Destroyed O2 sensor. Year 4 number 2. Year 5 number 3. Chucked 217F thermostat replaced with 200F. California emission test numbers went DOWN significantly. Now 8 years after the last sensor it's doing fine. So are the emissions. I had them checked LAST WEEK.
This discussion reminds me of the psychology of California banning sales of PENNYROYAL OIL. The best organic mosquito repellent on earth. Why? A dozen women were caught DRINKING IT TO INDUCE AN ABORTION. Meanwhile ZIKA and West Nile Virus rages on. I take it all back BOSS HAWG, AWAITS ON CHANNEL 42.
They do not. They "should" operate at the safest temperature within the parameters of engine design and emissions control. Heavy chassis engines, especially as GVW increases run warmer and warmer. Ever see a cracked aluminum cylinder head? Or worse, a basket full of edpm cased sensors or connectors (they are too cheap to use nylon), warp? It is costly. So are group 65 batteries, the Ford favorite chassis battery - the 65 is the costliest BCI automotive battery in the business. And it does not do well at temperatures exceeding 140F
OEM can state anything they want. As long as the engine passes emissions and does not come back to haunt them during the warranty period. But 350 degree engine oil becomes a lot less effective. Remember OEM? The folks that gave the public Ford's self-removing spark plugs? The folks that designed a magnetic rotor shaft and totally exposed slip ring bearing on the Delco CS130 alternator?
You expect THESE folks are sophisticated enough or care enough to maximize engine life and auxiliary component parts? They have one goal. Get it smogged and keep it out of dealership warranty bays. Design engineers are plying golf when an engine's pistons swap holes 15,000 miles beyond warranty end.
The vulnerable only can play the part of the"smart consumer" and learn. Then again they can tune in the Dukes of Hazzard after paying for repairs. I outlined a plan that has very few weak points and I am being hypercritical of myself. Get that engine temperature down to equal the lightest loaded POWERTRAIN that the engine is fitted to NOT THE CHASSIS. if a 205F run temperature maintains the engine within emission limits, and agrees with the lightest loaded powertrain engine heat then that's what to shoot for.
A 20 degree correction can easily add up to a thousand dollars in savings over a six year period. There is LABOR involved in finding a heat damaged sensor. How about a tow bill?
Year one. My toad. Destroyed O2 sensor. Year 4 number 2. Year 5 number 3. Chucked 217F thermostat replaced with 200F. California emission test numbers went DOWN significantly. Now 8 years after the last sensor it's doing fine. So are the emissions. I had them checked LAST WEEK.
This discussion reminds me of the psychology of California banning sales of PENNYROYAL OIL. The best organic mosquito repellent on earth. Why? A dozen women were caught DRINKING IT TO INDUCE AN ABORTION. Meanwhile ZIKA and West Nile Virus rages on. I take it all back BOSS HAWG, AWAITS ON CHANNEL 42.
