Palomino Pop-up DC Not Working

[lipafrog]

I have a 2010 Palomino Pop-up that we bought new. At the end of last season the DC power stopped working. When I investigated I found that the 30amp fuse on the positive wire from the battery had melted, assembly and all. We had not used DC power at all the previous year.

I installed a brand new fuse assembly and new fuse, checked all other fuses (all fine) and tried the DC power. Nothing. I've traced all the DC wires I can find and cannot locate any other fuse between battery and converter and have not found any signs of damaged/broken wires.

The water pump, lights and furnace both work when hooked up to shore power. I double checked the cutoff switch and it functions as expected (knew that since lights work but tested it anyway). Fridge does not function when hooked up to the tow vehicle but brake lights and signals do.

One maybe related thing, I tow with a Silverado 1500. The computer in the truck tells me I have a a problem with the trailer brakes when towing. Sometimes it reports this immediately and sometimes its does after we go down the road a bit. Could the trailer brakes be implicated in this or is it just because no power is getting to them?

Also, years ago I dragged the trailer connection cord for 50 miles or so and had to splice a couple of the wires in it back together. Haven't had any problems since (up to this one) and local parts place does not stock new ones.

Could this be as simple as replacing the tow vehicle connector? Not much of an electrical guy so I can't understand how that connection ties in with the battery, etc.

[red31]

lipafrog wrote:
So after some testing it turns out the negative wire coming out of the converter is carrying 12.6V on it.

What does that mean? with a meter you generally probe 2 different wires not just one.

[SidecarFlip]

Converters are cheap, I'd just replace it. Less than 100 bucks at most discount RV suppliers.

12.5 volts at the battery is pretty low too. Sounds like it's battery time as well. Batteries are consumable items.

[lipafrog]

So after some testing it turns out the negative wire coming out of the converter is carrying 12.6V on it. The table on the back of the converter has the wire color and intended usage for all wires exiting the converter.

Therefore I think this means that the converter is shorting to ground somewhere internally and will need to be replaced. Can anyone second that idea? Thanks!

[red31]

with a volt meter you can test the back of the power center (the 12v side) to determine if batt power is present, generally you'd probe the red + and white - for voltage. A place to start.

In simple terms, batt power enters the distribution fuses and then through a fuse and out to the appliance. If ya got batt voltage going into the fuses, you can probe each side of each fuse with the neg probe on ground or the white wire on back.

The first step may be to follow the white wire at the batt to frame and make sure it is secured.

Your power center's manual may be helpful in determining which fuses are for reverse protection and batt, on shore power pull fuses to determine what they power and label them!

[SidecarFlip]

Sounds like a high resistance connection or two. As connections age, the corrode and build reisitance.

[lipafrog]

Fubeca wrote:

What colors are the wires from the battery to the trailer? Do you take it out each winter? Is it possible it was connected backwards at any point?

Wires are red and white. Red has always been hooked to positive on the battery and white to negative. I've removed it and re-installed the battery every year and am sure I have never hooked it up backwards.

[Fubeca]

lipafrog wrote:

Voltage at the battery is 12.53
Battery has been removed for the winter season and sat on a float charger for the duration.

What colors are the wires from the battery to the trailer? Do you take it out each winter? Is it possible it was connected backwards at any point?

[lipafrog]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
It can be as difficult as blind guesswork by others

Or as simple as you gaining access to a handheld CHEAP meter and automotive CHEAP test light. Return to the forum for specific testing tips.

Thanks.
I guess I better study up on how to test for an electrical short.

[lipafrog]

Fubeca wrote:
Is the battery charged? What is the voltage at the battery?

Has the battery been removed? The melted fuse/fuseholder was likely caused by a direct short, it could have been in the trailer connection cord or elsewhere. There is often a wire in the trailer connection to the tow vehicle to allow for the tow vehicle to charge the trailer battery while in transit. If the wires were crossed when fixing it, that could be the source of your short.

Also if the brakes failed and caused a short, the truck would indicate a trailer brake issue and it could have shorted your fuse.

Thanks for the reply!

Voltage at the battery is 12.53
Battery has been removed for the winter season and sat on a float charger for the duration.

I will double check the trailer connection work but I am confident that, since the break was in the middle of the cable, I simply spliced same color to same color for the three broken wires. Then wrapped each repair individually and liberally in electrical tape, then the cable itself.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

It can be as difficult as blind guesswork by others

Or as simple as you gaining access to a handheld CHEAP meter and automotive CHEAP test light. Return to the forum for specific testing tips.

[Fubeca]

Is the battery charged? What is the voltage at the battery?

Has the battery been removed? The melted fuse/fuseholder was likely caused by a direct short, it could have been in the trailer connection cord or elsewhere. There is often a wire in the trailer connection to the tow vehicle to allow for the tow vehicle to charge the trailer battery while in transit. If the wires were crossed when fixing it, that could be the source of your short.

Also if the brakes failed and caused a short, the truck would indicate a trailer brake issue and it could have shorted your fuse.