power converter replacement

Hi Pup folks,
I just installed a WFCO 8735 35-amp Power Center in my 1979 Starcraft Starflite 6. I can’t believe it’s done! The concept of installing it, and connecting it was quite simple, but I ran into some snags mainly due to the way the pup was constructed.

The space needed to install the 8735 was ample, but it was slightly larger than the old 6-amp converter (which was not a battery charger). The paneling where the old converter was placed was very old, splintery, and brittle. The old ¾” x ¾” wooden strips that the converter was mounted to were stapled onto the paneling with MANY little staples, and it was impossible to remove them, and still preserve the paneling, so I bought a new piece of paneling at The Home Depot, and glued it onto the old one. When it dried, I cut out the rectangle for the 8735. I screwed (not stapled!) the new mounting strips from the back side of the panel, then mounted the new unit.

I connected all of the DC wires coming out the back of the converter to a 30-amp terminal strip, and from there to their appropriate locations. On the old converter’s 6-amp circuit, I connected a dome light (the original and only intent for the circuit), and 3-speed vent fan, two porch lights (one over the door, and one on the other side of the pup, and a utility light. (You can now see why I wanted a new converter.) I kept the lights on that circuit, but gave the fan its own circuit, and just installed a water pump on its own circuit. I really like this new converter. You can install up to 6 AC “tandem” circuit breakers. Right now, I only have one 30/30 tandem (30 for the main/30 for the converter), a 20-amp for my AC branch circuit, and a 15-amp, which I will dedicate its own GFCI outlet soon. The 8735 is very accommodating.

In the battery compartment, you could just connect the negative and positive from the converter to the 12-volt battery, but I got a little fancy and built a new switching panel above the shelf in the compartment, which features a 50-amp switchable circuit breaker, and some bus bars for connecting components, such as a voltmeter, a USB port, and a 12v accessory socket… all easier said than done! But, it’s done!

dryfly wrote:

BFL13 wrote:

j-d wrote:
Pic of a PD 4655

Am I correct in thinking that it replaces a PORTION of one or more popular Makes/Models of Converter/Charger?

We have an IOTA that I'd describe as All-In-One. It's OEM, no doubt cheap, and it comprises:

AC Breaker Panel
DC Fuse Panel
Power Converter 120VAC >> 12VDC
House Battery Charger

I can DO Wiring, Cutting, Fitting, Trimming. I anticipate a total nightmare swapping out the IOTA because all the related wiring is cut short. I can barely replace a Breaker let alone connect the wiring we have to a new unit with a different layout.

How do I get that done?

First make sure you have the IQ4 for the Iota if it has the jack for it. Then you don't need to swap it out.

Yes, the whole thing is called a Power Centre and just the converter can usually be swapped out. Or leave it there and install a deck mount converter elsewhere (closer to the batteries is good)

This brings up another question. Do the "deck mount" converters offer any additional benefits over the replacement boards that fit directly in the distribution panel (such as the WFCO I have now)? They look like they are of heavy construction and are better ventilated. Price looks comparable.

I'm not sure at this point if there is any interface between the converter and the distribution panel other than the 12vdc output of the converter. In other words, looks like you would just come off the output of the deck mount converter and take the pos and neg leads to the panel. Am I missing something?

You can use a deck mount under the power centre as a replacement if it will fit. Bestconverters has an example of that ISTR in the collection of upgrade examples people have done.

With the deck mount by the batteries, the connection to the DC fuse panel is via the battery, which already has wires to the fuse panel.

A deck mount has a chassis ground wire to the RV frame. The open type lower portion replacement has metal contact with the power centre's big chassis which is already grounded to the frame via the main 120v line's bare copper wire, so you don't need an additional ground. If the deck mount goes under there, then it would if it is not touching the power centre chassis.

If looking at Boondockers, ISTR the replacement is 55a while the deck mounts are 60amp. I like the 75a size because you get faster battery charging with the higher amps, and it is PF corrected, so it should not take any more 120 to run it than the 60a needs.

Same/same no interface or magic electronic controls.
Converter is just an independent 12v power supply.
120vac in, 12vdc out.

no other than maybe no room for it in some applications

BFL13 wrote:

j-d wrote:
Pic of a PD 4655

Am I correct in thinking that it replaces a PORTION of one or more popular Makes/Models of Converter/Charger?

We have an IOTA that I'd describe as All-In-One. It's OEM, no doubt cheap, and it comprises:

AC Breaker Panel
DC Fuse Panel
Power Converter 120VAC >> 12VDC
House Battery Charger

I can DO Wiring, Cutting, Fitting, Trimming. I anticipate a total nightmare swapping out the IOTA because all the related wiring is cut short. I can barely replace a Breaker let alone connect the wiring we have to a new unit with a different layout.

How do I get that done?

First make sure you have the IQ4 for the Iota if it has the jack for it. Then you don't need to swap it out.

Yes, the whole thing is called a Power Centre and just the converter can usually be swapped out. Or leave it there and install a deck mount converter elsewhere (closer to the batteries is good)

This brings up another question. Do the "deck mount" converters offer any additional benefits over the replacement boards that fit directly in the distribution panel (such as the WFCO I have now)? They look like they are of heavy construction and are better ventilated. Price looks comparable.

I'm not sure at this point if there is any interface between the converter and the distribution panel other than the 12vdc output of the converter. In other words, looks like you would just come off the output of the deck mount converter and take the pos and neg leads to the panel. Am I missing something?

smkettner wrote:

j-d wrote:
Looking around, that Boondocker or Progressive PD4060... Should FIT... But Connections???

I'd want to investigate the type of Breakers the two can accept. Our IOTA uses Cutler-Hammer and they aren't as available as Siemens, GE, SquareD etc.

You just replace the lower section Main Board assembly. NOT the entire breaker/fuse panel.

Exactly

j-d wrote:
Looking around, that Boondocker or Progressive PD4060... Should FIT... But Connections???

I'd want to investigate the type of Breakers the two can accept. Our IOTA uses Cutler-Hammer and they aren't as available as Siemens, GE, SquareD etc.

You just replace the lower section Main Board assembly. NOT the entire breaker/fuse panel.

j-d wrote:
Looking around, that Boondocker or Progressive PD4060... Should FIT... But Connections???

I'd want to investigate the type of Breakers the two can accept. Our IOTA uses Cutler-Hammer and they aren't as available as Siemens, GE, SquareD etc.

It shouldn't matter. just remove the pos & neg from conv to panel and remove the conv. replace conv & hook up the pos & neg to panel & you are done.

It took me all of about 20 min to do the swap. On my WFCO the Powermax Boondocker was an exact replacement for the orig. You will need to pull the panel out to do this easily. Mine had enough slack in the wires to do so. Good luck.

j-d wrote:
Looking around, that Boondocker or Progressive PD4060... Should FIT... But Connections???

I'd want to investigate the type of Breakers the two can accept. Our IOTA uses Cutler-Hammer and they aren't as available as Siemens, GE, SquareD etc.

It shouldn't matter. just remove the pos & neg from conv to panel and remove the conv. replace conv & hook up the pos & neg to panel & you are done.

It took me all of about 20 min to do the swap. On my WFCO the Powermax Boondocker was an exact replacement for the orig.

Looking around, that Boondocker or Progressive PD4060... Should FIT... But Connections???

I'd want to investigate the type of Breakers the two can accept. Our IOTA uses Cutler-Hammer and they aren't as available as Siemens, GE, SquareD etc.