putting a Kodiac camper on Ford F350 ideas

[laurencen]

hi all and enjoy reading the many posts, we have a 1996 Kodiac truck camper, purchased at the time with my 1996 Dodge 3/4 ton Diesel, used it regulary upto 2004 when we purchased the 1999 Fleetwood discovery.

retired the Dodge, still have it but wanted to run the Camper for weekends, fixed a couple leaks from the sealant peeling on the fridge vent on the roof, scraped all the old seal and redid it, no leaks so load it up.

The first issue the Ford is taller from box to top of cab and needed to add a 2x10 plus a strip of 3/4 plywood so the rear doors will open and have clearance between truck roof and camper.

took it out last weekend, allmost instantly the front of camper shifted over to one side, we had decent winds so pulled over and re centered camper, tightened it more and set off, after half hour its back over, never had this issue with the Dodge so assuming its the spacer used under it allowing it to slide.

my question anyone else had this issue and what are you using for a spacer? Iv considered having a couple strips bandsawn 2 1/2 thick but thinking covering it, maybe carpet, rubber matting or?

thanks for ant sugestions 

[slider45]

Howdy, Laurencen. Curious to see your camper project. Hope you can share

[Grit_dog]

Huh?

[laurencen]

hi Grit_dog, we never unload the camper, agree nice to have a truck to drive when on site but never done it, rarely stay more than a couple days

2 x 10 are lenghtwise each side the box and 3/4 plywood on top, only way to clear the rear door hitting the camper, truck has spray in liner

agree the rubber blocks add weight, never figured the difference between the Dodge 2500 and F350 was so different, maybe next time I will get a strip of thick rubber matting to replace the plywood, also thinking a filler each side the front of the box to space the camper sideways, a couple blocks of Styrofoam would likely work

[Grit_dog]

I agree, if you leave the camper in the truck and never remove it, then removing the other stuff holding it morning place is not really an issue. 
safe travels!

[laurencen]

run 2 2x10 8 foot each side with 3/4 plywood on top, needs this to allow the rear doors to clear the camper, the back is located by the end of the box sides but nothing at the front, it can move side to side till the camper contacts the wheel arches in the box which is about 4 inches.

[Grit_dog]

You could easily block it off of the fender wells also. 
what you propose would also seem to work I suppose. Seems heavy and clunky and no one needs extra weight in the bed with a TC. 
Assuming you don’t have a rubber bed mat? That, or stall mats (again, heavier and more costly) are the common means for providing a slip resistant surface. 
1 sheet of foam (lightweight, durable and simple) and a bed mat seems preferable to some frame work with multiple pieces and chunks of heavy rubber etc. 

That alone will keep the camper from sliding, but a couple 6’ long 2x lumber, on on each side of the camper at the wheel wells will limit the sliding positively. 
And you can cut the 2x’s to length to fit in your bed dividers to keep stuff in the bed when running around without the tailgate when you’re on the road and camper is unloaded in the campsite. (If you do that kind of thing.  I’d frequently unload the camper on multi day stays to have a vehicle to run around with and if I left the tailgate at home for that trip, the boards made small tailgates to keep coolers, tackle boxes etc from the potential of sliding out the back. 

[laurencen]

funny, I ran 2x10 with 3/4 plywood the length of the bed, worked to get height right but camper would slide to one side in wind, its funny I stopped to reset it and it took less than 5 mins to get blown back over, with no wind it centered itself no problem

its away now but thinking next year making a mold of plywood with a 2x6 cut down the center, it gives me little over 2 1/2 tall with 10 or 12 inches between, the plan the guys that make rubber paving and sidewalks here typically have some product left and would fill the mold, once set I have a couple rubber blocks 10 x 2 1/2 thick 8 feet long, use these for spacers its not slippery so should do the trick moving forward

[Grit_dog]

‘Nother no call no show, eh?

[Grit_dog]

Yes, just keep it from sliding around. 
curious how “a” 2x10 is employed. Did you just run it across the front of the box to kick the nose up?

You could get crazy and build a whole wood or metal frame to raise it up and secure it from sliding or get a sheet of high density foam board. Put it in the bed, put your bed mat on top of it and the camper will be properly supported and not slide around. 

[Grit_dog]

Kidding

[Grit_dog]

Velcro on the 2x10s