Just thought I'd put this out to you guys, since you are all so smart!! :BTruck in sig, getting old. 393,500 K on the odometer. (244,509 miles)I noticed while towing 8000 pounds of trailer in addition to my rack and toolboxes at about 2000 pounds, that it was really easy for the temperature to creep up going up minor grades. It was Saskatchewan in August, pretty warm, but not real hot. Not a lot of serious hills in Sask.Took it very easy, cruised st about 60 - 63 MPH most of the time, watching the gauges like a hawk. Fan kicked in a few times as the temp gauge crept up.I don't recall this ever being an issue in the past.Planning a trip through the Rockies close to the coast of BC in a couple weeks. Some really serious grades to pull on that highway.I'm wondering what I should expect from my radiator. It is original and has never been touched, flushed or anything.I wonder what the life expectancy of the rad is....Further wondering if it could be starting to plug up inside, with reduced flow. I have always kept the proper mix of Dexcool in it since new.Any thoughts?

When was the last time you changed out the anti-freeze? And it's possible the thermostat is losing its ability to open completely, and partially blocking flow. My 2001 Dodge Cummins was tending to run a bit warmer than in the past. I drained and replaced the anti-freeze and distilled water, and also replace the thermostat. I noticed this summer that the temps seemed to stay down a bit better. Of course it could just be wishful thinking.OTOH if you been filling your radiator out of the garden hose, you may be due to have some issues. Our water here is so hard, we buy water to make coffee with. YMMV.

everything in the cooling system loses efficiency with ageradiator, water pump, thermostat, hoses, coolantstart with a coolant flush, might as well do the hoses and thermostat during that, there usually easyradiators do plug up and the fins get damaged, water pump impellers corrode away reducing the pump's flow

Guess I should have considered the water pump too. It is original.Coolant has been changed last summer when I blew a head gasket.Hoses were all changed at the same time, as was the thermostat.Coolant top ups have been very few and far between, it has never really used much. Water here is hard too.

Something many don't think about is the outside of the radiator, gunk and bugs build up on them over time, pull and clean the outside.

rhagfo wrote:Something many don't think about is the outside of the radiator, gunk and bugs build up on them over time, pull and clean the outside.People never give a thought about cleaning the rad. It collects all kinds of junk and it clogs the fins and reduced efficiency. I clean the rads on my farm reactors daily when in the field and my vehicles yearly FROM THE FAN SIDE, not from the front to the back. You can buy a cleaning wand on Amazon but I use compressed air and an extendable blow gun followed by a pressure washer with a wide fan tip installed..You'll be amazed at how much better the rad cools when it's clean. Just like you body, works better when clean.:p

Radiator performance? Life expectancy? | Good Sam Community

BobsYourUncle
Nomad
Sep 11, 2019
Thanks for the comments and insight everyone.
I appreciate you all.
BobsYourUncle
Nomad
Sep 11, 2019
theoldwizard1 wrote:

So you have the original coolant in it ! That would make me nervous also. Dexcool turns to sludge if it gets too hot. Really hard to clean out.

Guess I should have stated myself better and more clearly.
Not the original coolant in there.

What I meant was I have never done the service work of a power flush to clean it out.

When I replaced both heads last summer, the coolant was in fact replaced, just not flushed as we do to clean it all out.
There was a little residual in the bottom of the block, but nothing more.
RLS7201
Explorer II
Sep 10, 2019
Bob, you mentioned new head gasket. I suggest you have the coolant system checked for combustion chamber gases. The possibility exists for the new gaskets to be leaking. Low cost item.
It looks like the general consensus is to just throw $$ at it, no matter what the cost, instead of analyzing the problem.

Richard
Cloud_Dancer
Explorer II
Sep 10, 2019
One look inside the radiator is all it would take for me to decide to replace it, AND the water pump. But, I would first do the best engine flush possible.
fj12ryder
Explorer III
Sep 10, 2019
Just be aware that "Water Wetter" is not an anti-freeze.
mapguy
Explorer
Sep 10, 2019
STAY WITH DEXCOOL -don't create extra issues to deal with, changing can lead to other issues like sludge build up from incompatible coolants. You cannot get all the old dexcool out...…

Replace the radiator if at all concerned with its integrity. Use OEM or OEM replacement like Modine from napa.

I would check to see if the fan is coming on at the right temp. It is a thermal fan. These are known to stop working or "engaging" at the proper temp over time.

Cleaning the radiator stack would be a good move, too!
the_bear_II
Explorer
Sep 10, 2019
The times I have had cooling issues with an older truck it was the fan clutch twice and the thermostat once. I did replace the radiator due to a leak but it wasn't causing a heating issue.

On my daily driver car with a plastic aluminum radiator the plastic developed a crack. I was able to keep up with the water leak for a few weeks while I looked for a replacement radiator. One day while driving to work the temp gauge pinned hot. The radiator still had plenty of water. The thermostat had stopped opening.

So I would check the operation of your fan clutch. It may be coming on but not strong enough under load. And make sure the thermostat is opening or not clogged.

There is a product be RedLine called "Called Wetter Water" I used it in my truck and it kept the temp 20 degrees lower while pulling my 5th wheel up a grade that we travel often. It works as advertised.
_1Flyboy
Explorer
Sep 10, 2019
I did not mention it but please forget the Dexcool ( Deathcool ) & go with your favorite Name Brand 5 year / 150,000 mile antifreeze ( full strength NOT premixed ).... When you get done changing all the parts & flushing out the motor before refilling REMEMBER THIS: You will probably have a couple of gallons of water / old coolant left sitting in the motor ( unless you have drain plugs on the engine block )....
theoldwizard1
Explorer II
Sep 10, 2019
BobsYourUncle wrote:
I don't recall this ever being an issue in the past.

Not a good sign ! If you did not swap it ahead of your trip, I would carry a spare (OEM).

BobsYourUncle wrote:
I'm wondering what I should expect from my radiator. It is original and has never been touched, flushed or anything.

So you have the original coolant in it ! That would make me nervous also. Dexcool turns to sludge if it gets too hot. Really hard to clean out.

I do all of my own maintenance including radiator "flush". Drain, fill with fresh water and Prestone Flush chemical. Drive for at least 30 minute. Drain, refill with fresh water, drive for 30 minutes. Drain and refill a second time and a third 30 minute drive. Drain, fill with coolant.

The problem is, it is pretty much impossible to drain all the old coolant/water out of your system which is why I do TWO fresh water rinses. When putting new coolant in, I use 100% non-diluted. Use your favorite procedure to remove air. Check the strength. Adjust with water or coolant to meet the strength requirements.
shum02
Explorer
Sep 10, 2019
Replaced the rad in the SD last year with just over 400k kms on her. Started to leak past the seals on the bottom of the core between the header and the bottom tank. Not to bad I think.

I replaced the egr and oil cooler at the same time along with a new t-stat and overflow bottle.

A solid weekend of my own labour and parts so not too bad.

Can tow my 8000lb camper and barely push 200F for oil and coolant and around 170F for trans fluid, t-stat keeps her right around 190F empty.

Worth the trouble.