Refrigerator Cooling Fan (Outside)?

Ventilation is a major problem with the refer.
A fan may help, but reducing the distance between the outside wall and the cooling unit will help far more.
Look at installation manual for your make and model. It should show clearance between sidewall and cooling unit of about an inch max.
I used some high density foam board attached to wall with Liquid Nails. I later had refer out and installed screws.
Another ventilation problem area is at the top of the refer. There is quite often a void on top that disturbs the hot air flow so it doesn't go straight out the roof vent.
I removed the top vent and installed a curved peice of metal duct to direct the air out the vent.

enblethen wrote:
Ventilation is a major problem with the refer.
A fan may help, but reducing the distance between the outside wall and the cooling unit will help far more.
Look at installation manual for your make and model. It should show clearance between sidewall and cooling unit of about an inch max.
I used some high density foam board attached to wall with Liquid Nails. I later had refer out and installed screws.
Another ventilation problem area is at the top of the refer. There is quite often a void on top that disturbs the hot air flow so it doesn't go straight out the roof vent.
I removed the top vent and installed a curved peice of metal duct to direct the air out the vent.

This is so true. RV manufacturers often dont pay a lot of attention to installation instructions. They do what is cheap and suits their needs.
Abiding by all of the install requirements will make a dramatic difference in performance.
I suggest you remove the fridge and check out clearances. Also, like I found with my TT, check the roof opening to see if they left flaps of rubber roofing partially blocking the opening. The other thing they never do is create a flue for the heat to escape out the roof. This can be done with some tin.
After reworking our TT's fridge install, it has no problems cooling in 105+ degree heat on electric.

Agreed on the poor installation methods by rv manufacturers.

Convection currents should be able to pull in enough air across the coils if installed properly with baffles and proper clearances and the fans only really required in super hot conditions on initial cool down or when the door is opened often with warm items plced within.

Those adding fans need to ensure that all the fan's flow is either evacuating the compartment above fridge, or forcing cooler air in from below, and not simply recirculating a high percentage of the air.

Meaning use a fan shroud for 100% air displacement instead of just aiming a fan in the general direction. Huge CFM numbers from a row of powerful fans is not needed. The 120mm 12v Noctua nf-f12 moves 53 CFM for just 0.05 amps, and can be slowed/ quietened even further for less amp draw by the 2 different ' low noise adapters', they provide with the fan. One has been attached to my danfoss's condenser for nearly 5 years. Awesome fan. They have industrial versions that are higher rpm and IP rated against water and dust ingress.

Don't get just any 12v computer fan. They vary widely in amperage consumed for air moved and noise made. Some are loud wasteful amp ******, others are whisper quiet, and can move all the air required for a fraction of the electrical consumption.

I went to install outside fans on mine, but when I inspected found they were already there but thermostat was not working so installed a new adjustable one and better insulation at top so all air goes out went.
Frank.

[img][/img]I installed 4 fans in the roof vent, and taped the flange with eternabond. I ran the wires down to the back of the fridge and used the 12 supply to the fridge to power them thru a switch with a rheostat to control speed.

thanks for the input thus far.

i now see the usefulness of installing the fan on top to force the draw thru the compartment. Am concerned about moisture/rain and its effect on the fan if installed under the vent cap. Any input there also?

Hi Dave,

My fans are in a mask at the top under the rain cap. They have been in place since 2010 and still function well. I do have them on a thermostat to conserve energy.

A side benefit is better operation in cold weather as the air flow is some what restricted by the mask.