Refrigerator is dead

[jornvango]

We have a 2009 Casita trailer with original Dometic fridge. We're full-timers and typically boondock so the fridge uses propane and 12V. Today, out of nowhere, the fridge went dead. The "ON/OFF" button doesn't do a thing. I figure it may be time for a new fridge looking at the age, but, as these things usually break in the worst possible location, I'd like to see if I can get it going again as we're currently in the middle-of-nowhere Alaska for the summer and are not going back to the lower 48 until the end of September and there's no RV repair shop in hundreds of miles here.

Anyone have any troubleshooting steps I can try? I already checked the 15AMP fuse and it's good (that would have been too easy a fix!).

Thanks!

[stevenal]

Suggest seeing if Dinosaur has a replacement. Better than OEM in my experience.

[jornvango]

Update: the fridge is working again.
A guy came by to help troubleshoot. He tapped his hammer on the control board and instantly the fridge came alive!

So, he said some electrical connection probably corroded and the tap of the hammer restored the connection. He recommended to replace the control board. Makes sense?
I'm about to look for the replacement board.

[jornvango]

Update: after tracing where the wire loses the voltage, I got that fixed. I confirmed that the wire going into the control board at the back of the fridge is now receiving 13.3V
However, the fridge is still not turning on. I just did some research and, once I get back home, will check the control board to see that 12V power is leaving to the fridge power button.

[Fulltimers]

2.9 volts is your problem. No need to check anything else. Find where you.ve lost your 12V and repair and you will be back in business. Could be a rodent munched a wire.

[wa8yxm]

Dometic.. May not be as bad as you think.. Some things to check before you reach for your wallet.

First if the on/off/temp controls et-al are above the top copartment pull that panel straight otu you will find a mulit-wire ribbon cable leading off to who knows were (Well I do as do many others) unplug and re-plug a few ties 3,5,10.
Oh that panel is called "The Eyebrow" you can put it back now.

Now to the other end of that cable A black box likely on the lower left in the OUTSIDE compartment.. Do the same thing on that end.

Inside said box you will find some fuses.... Check them

You may also have a terminal board bottom center in the outside compartment. ore fuses and possible bad traces (This is a basic board AND fixable if you have the skill. I do but will not instruct. NOTE about this board.... IF 120 volt is an option.. it will be there. it's also where the Ice Maker gets power if you got one... Thus caution please.

Now more on that board.

There is a long black or white tube ribbed.. It has a sort of a plug in the end of it.. This is supposed to be "put out" through one of the vent holes in the cover so it DRIPS DRIPS DRIPS on the ground.. alas many fail do do that and if you leave it INSIDE it drips, drips, drips on the terminal board mentioned above.. You can imagine the end result.

Funny note: Took my Dometic in for a recall. Was mentioning the "Many forget" part of the last pargraph when the service tech returned my keys to the service consultant. Service tech says "I always put it out"... he lied.

[dougrainer]

2.9 is bad power.
1. Check the voltage at the Fuse in the Power center
2. PULL the fuse in the Power center if one side shows that 2.9. Bend the tabs on the fuse to seat in the fuse holder tighter. A loose fuse will cause your voltage problem.
3. when testing voltage at the back of the refer, use a frame ground for the negative tester probe instead of the Neg wire at the back of the refer. You could have a loose ground going to the refer. Doug

[jornvango]

Looks like it's either Dometic RM2351, RM2451 or RM2551. Unsure how to know which of these three as the Dometic manual schematics in the RV lists these three for what matches what I see at the back of the fridge.

I tested both fuses on the control board and they're ok.

I tested 12V power leaving the RV's power center and it's ok.

When the power arrives at the back of the fridge, the multimeter only shows around 2.9 so not sure if I'm testing it wrong or if there could be an issue for the 12V not reaching the fridge and I should check the cable between the fridge and the RV's power center.

[theoldwizard1]

midnightsadie wrote:
PULL that fuse They get oxidzed . start at the source batt good etc.

Just had that happen ! Plus fuse for inspection. GOOD ! Re-inserted and it works.

When chasing these kinds of problems an incandescent (not LED) test light is better than a meter.

[dougrainer]

REALLY need Model number. But, the FIRST thing to check is the Overtemp disc on the side of the flue metal cover. Some have a reset button and some do NOT. But it is very simple to take the 2 wires and jump together. Do this and then see if the refer comes ON. This disc kills ALL 12 volt power to the refer. Doug

[agesilaus]

I suspect the board died but don't know much about Dometic fridges. BUT I suggest you search YouTube for "Dometic refrigerator ZZZZ troubleshooting" where ZZZZ is the model. Lots of very helpful material up there. Don't give up on this one until you check the prices on a new one.

[midnightsadie]

PULL that fuse get get oxidzed . start at the source batt good etc.

[nickthehunter]

Is there a light inside the fridge? Does the light come on?

[Roger10378]

You checked the fuse. There are probably more than one fuse, one on the board and one in your 12 volt panel. Which did you test and were you testing for continuity of the fuse or 12 volts at the output of the fuse?

[SoonDockin]

Check that 12v is making it to the back of the fridge. I once had an issue with power not making it from the fuse to the fridge. I just ran temporary wires until I was able to fix it.