My Dometic Refrigerator was accidentally ran off-level for several hours. It now doesn't seem to freeze hotdogs after about four hours running level so far.The bubble in my level was just outside the line, touching it.Am I hosed? Is there anything to do besides replacing whole unit?

Hard to say Ray. Is it possible to shut down, let everything cool off, level & fire back up? Make sure you have plenty of air flow across the condenser in the back of the fridge?Fingers Crossed.RM

Rmack1 wrote:Am I hosed? Is there anything to do besides replacing whole unit?What was the total run time before you became concerned ?Mine won't thoroughly cool down to the point of being able to cool things put into it until it has been on for 8-12 hours.After that, it stays nicely cold.My guess is: No. I seldom pay any attention to my "bubble".

RV fridges are good if they can just keep up. The refer part can take 6 hours to cool down, the freezer can take longer. Keeping hot dogs frozen is very different than freezing ones which started thawed. It's best to start with stuff which is already frozen. Ice cubes take overnight.Don't worry yet. Let it sit running for a day or two. In my experience, they work best on propane, 110VAC second, 12VDC a distant third.

The newer Reefers are not a picky about being exactly level,My book says that if you can walk comfortably it should be ok. I would re set it and give it time to chill back down.

Dometic only specifies that their fridge should be leveled sufficiently that it seems level to the occupants of the vehicle: "To ensure proper leveling the vehicle needs to be leveled so it is comfortable to live in (no noticeable sloping of oor or walls)." Norcold I think specifies a maximum of three degrees off level along one dimension (and looser in the other), which works out to somewhere around a 5 inch difference in height between the wheels across an 8' wide RV. Being just outside the line on a level would seem to be well within spec.If you're trying to freeze hot dogs that were not frozen, it would probably take at least four hours in a normal household freezer that is already down to temperature. Starting up an RV fridge that hasn't cooled down yet I would not expect them to be frozen. Give it a day to cool down and check whether the fridge and freezer compartments are at reasonable temperatures; I think you'll be just fine.

Refrigerator ran off level | Good Sam Community

bigfootford
Nomad II
Oct 15, 2016
Bummer, you guys are going to run off one of the most helpful, knowledgeable contributors we have for appliances etc. Doug and Bryant's rv is all we have for help with weird problems with our appliances...
http://bryantrv.com

I thank both of them as often as I can... Why? At times threads like this end up in a pissing match without realizing who they are and what they have contributed and we need an answer to reach a proper resolution to an issue. Usually handled with PM's because the thread has ended just like this one is headed for.

Jim
LarryJM
Explorer II
Oct 13, 2016
dougrainer wrote:
Just because YOU are monitering the flue temp on LP and electric, That higher temp does not mean LP is better. Doug

That statement is INCORRECT the ARP system DOES NOT MEASURE FLUE TEMP, it measures the boiler tube temp. The LP flue is next to the boiler tube, but the ARP temp sensor is physically attached to the boiler tube and the install directions specifically warn about having it too close to either the flue tube or the elec heat probe tubes since those will give a false reading of what the true boiler temp is and that is what you want to monitor with the ARP system.

Larry
LarryJM
Explorer II
Oct 13, 2016
BennieH wrote:
Doug, the LP burner does have a higher but output. I can monitor my boiler temps with my ARP and on LP the boiler is abou 20 degrees higher. That will change the cooling output.

I've noticed that also with my ARP boiler temp on AC running in the 350 to 360 range with the refer on LP it runs around 380 to 390 so I'm around 30deg higher boiler temp on LP than AC.

Larry
Dave_H_M
Explorer II
Oct 13, 2016
never mind
Sam_Spade
Explorer
Oct 13, 2016
dougrainer wrote:

So, 37 years as a trained expert means nothing to you people:h

And it seems that you are saying that experience means nothing too.

While neither really is the case because even the best trained or most experienced people often make mistakes along the way.

Bottom line:
I don't give a TRA what the theory is.
I KNOW than mine will cool down roughly twice as fast on propane.
My perception might be off a little bit but not THAT much.
pianotuna
Nomad III
Oct 13, 2016
BennieH,

My ARP shows the same temperature on 120 volt and on propane.

BennieH wrote:
Doug, the LP burner does have a higher but output. I can monitor my boiler temps with my ARP and on LP the boiler is abou 20 degrees higher. That will change the cooling output.
dclark1946
Explorer
Oct 13, 2016
landyacht318 wrote:
Absorption fridges will go the way of the Dodo as solar gets cheaper.

The 12-24v DC compressor fridges are efficient. and can be improved further with more insulation and a proper install, venting condenser heat properly Same with 120vaAC fridges on an inverter.

Propane is for cooking.

I hope not. Where we dry camp we have heavy shade but do nicely with LP and have done so for many years. Because we have propane powered refrigerator we can dry camp with a single Trojan SCS 200 12V deep cycle battery and an EU1000 generator.

Solar is not for all campers.
dougrainer
Nomad
Oct 13, 2016
Sam Spade wrote:
dougrainer wrote:

They will NOT do better on LP.

Well it seems that at least a half dozen of us are afflicted by the same delusion Doug.

Give it a rest please.

Why should I give it a rest???????? FACTS seem to bother you? Sorry, a layperson can have NO basis for stating LP is better than 120 as there can be to many variables. Lets say the LP pressure is slightly below spec, then the 120 will be a lot better. But the RV'er does NOT know he has low gas pressure, so he will have a half dozen stating 120 is better. Doug
dougrainer
Nomad
Oct 13, 2016
BennieH wrote:
Doug, the LP burner does have a higher but output. I can monitor my boiler temps with my ARP and on LP the boiler is abou 20 degrees higher. That will change the cooling output.

So, 37 years as a trained expert means nothing to you people:h Then lets just UP the LP pressure and get that boiler temp up 30 or 40 degrees higher. Then the refer will just be a sub zero miracle. Just because YOU are monitering the flue temp on LP and electric, That higher temp does not mean LP is better. The Makers of the Refers KNOW what the parameters should be. If they felt that 120 should be higher, all they have to do is install a slightly higher wattage 120 element. As I mentioned, Do you also monitor the 120 voltage when you take those ARP measurements. Is the voltage at 120 or higher? When testing is done for Service or warranty, Dometic and Norcold do not state to use LP only for testing. They want whatever is available which is 120 in a shop. They NEVER state after giving them the results (bad results), OH, do it on LP and then call us. Doug
BennieH
Explorer
Oct 13, 2016
Doug, the LP burner does have a higher but output. I can monitor my boiler temps with my ARP and on LP the boiler is abou 20 degrees higher. That will change the cooling output.