Forum Discussion
- rockhillmanorExplorer
dougrainer wrote:
rockhillmanor wrote:
booten wrote:
We checked all the breakers, the fridge has power the fan is running. It's only pulling 3 amps of power on the power panel. The motorhome is setting level.
If the fan is running and it is not cold.
CHECK your coach battery.
Fridge thermostat needs strong 12 volt to work. It can't turn on if there is low voltage 12v..
The fridge WILL run without 12v but it can not turn the thermostat on to make it cold.
Been there done that I had every repair known to man suggested when I had that same problem. ONE forum member told me to check the battery. I had bad convertor which in turn did not supply constant 12 volt.
You are forgetting. IF the 12 volt fan is running, then there is enough 12 volt power to operate the refer 12 volt controls. Refer controls are millivolt. The fan is full 12 volt operation. WHY check the battery? If the Power Converter is to spec, the refer will have 12 volts. Doug
Mine was a REAL weird situation. The repair guy would check the convertor and it registered where it should. Put the tester on, it hit the right number and he took tester off. Deemed the converter working.
Only after going thru 3 repair guys did "I" figure it out.
If you left the tester on the convertor longer you could see it was spiking WAY over what it is supposed to be putting out and it was ultimately boiling the batteries when it was in the spike mode.
One of the capacitors has a hole in it like it was shot with a 22. BUT it still kept working only could not regulate it self.
This alone was the cause for the fridge not working AND the a/c. Both would come on but when it hit the temp set could not come back on. Repair guys all said I needed a new a/c and fridge. :R
Replaced converter, replaced boiled battery and 8 years later still have the same fridge and a/c that are working just fine. - midnightsadieExplorer IIhow hot is it outside? and it does take apprx 12hrs to cool down.
rockhillmanor wrote:
booten wrote:
We checked all the breakers, the fridge has power the fan is running. It's only pulling 3 amps of power on the power panel. The motorhome is setting level.
If the fan is running and it is not cold.
CHECK your coach battery.
Fridge thermostat needs strong 12 volt to work. It can't turn on if there is low voltage 12v..
The fridge WILL run without 12v but it can not turn the thermostat on to make it cold.
Been there done that I had every repair known to man suggested when I had that same problem. ONE forum member told me to check the battery. I had bad convertor which in turn did not supply constant 12 volt.
You are forgetting. IF the 12 volt fan is running, then there is enough 12 volt power to operate the refer 12 volt controls. Refer controls are millivolt. The fan is full 12 volt operation. WHY check the battery? If the Power Converter is to spec, the refer will have 12 volts. Doug- rockhillmanorExplorer
booten wrote:
We checked all the breakers, the fridge has power the fan is running. It's only pulling 3 amps of power on the power panel. The motorhome is setting level.
If the fan is running and it is not cold.
CHECK your coach battery.
Fridge thermostat needs strong 12 volt to work. It can't turn on if there is low voltage 12v..
The fridge WILL run without 12v but it can not turn the thermostat on to make it cold.
Been there done that I had every repair known to man suggested when I had that same problem. ONE forum member told me to check the battery. I had bad convertor which in turn did not supply constant 12 volt. - As Chris mentioned, nothing fancy about replacing a refer. You slide it in and start it up. NOW, if they did NOT check the ventilation system on the RV, then the refer may not work. Maybe that is why the old refer failed. Doug
1. IS this in a slide room?
2. What Brand and Model refer? Is it the same brand and model of the one that failed?
3. WHY did you replace the refer? - bootenExplorerThanks for the help. Looks like we're going to put it back in the shop.
- Chris_BryantExplorer IIMultiple failures usually points to bad installation- on a replacement, it is not unusual to have insulation blocking the condenser coils.
Regardless, it is something the installing dealer should deal with. booten wrote:
3 amps of 120vac sounds normal for the heater. The rest is just the thermodynamic chemical process so the issue would seem to be with the cooling unit itself.
We checked all the breakers, the fridge has power the fan is running. It's only pulling 3 amps of power on the power panel. The motorhome is setting level.- MrWizardModeratoryou did not use the battery disconnect did you ?
did you check battery voltage
120v or LP it still has to have good DC voltage for the controls or it won't turn on an cool - Old-BiscuitExplorer IIIHow about BRAND/MODEL for starters......
Generic
12V DC to control module backside of fridge?
120V AC to outlet fridge is plugged into?
Fuses on control module not blown...tested not just looked at?
Upper panel lights on...work?
Does it turn ON?
Does it go in 'auto' mode?
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