replacement batteries

[leatherhead612]

Hey Guys,
I tried to search this issue but was having difficulty finding the right info. My Battery went dead while dry camping. Now (about a month later), I smelled a sulfur type smell the other day, and the battery was super hot, so I removed it.
Questions:
Is it a bad idea to stay plugged into shore power without a battery hooked up? I assume it could mess with the converter?
What type of battery do I replace it with, while searching I saw all kinds of opinions: AGM, deep cycle, RV/Marine type. Which is best, we only dry camp for a week once a year-we do have a generator to supplement.
I read of folks switching to dual 6V golf cart batteries what is the advantage and is it advisable?

[MEXICOWANDERER]

When my super duper Wal-Mart toad battery did the Johnson Controls death knell, I didn't freak out when I had to settle for a featherweight calcium calcium Mexican battery.

Warm temps CCA does not enter into the picture

My habits do not include the slightest cycling of a car battery

Gear reduction starter further lessening cranking amp load

Minimal parasitic draw of 3 milliamps. (Cycling is death to a calcium calcium battery).

And it's been 5 years...

So all aspects need to be covered when analyzing what type of battery, how many and what type of recharge systems fits like a glove.

Power pole princess applications where a rig jumps from park to park may even successfully get away with a no-cycle engine starting battery. And with no cycling that engine starting battery may far outlive a deep cycle battery.

Many small rigs have very limited space for adding batteries.

But small rigs = small demand and small loads.

If the original battery seemed to do a good job and did not fail prematurely then what's to gain by futzing with the formula?

It's the 51 weeks off-season that concern me. If the original converter halfass charges the battery with the generator and no capacity complaints are noted, what value does a whiz bang dongle special have 51 weeks of the year?

Are not those battery buddies sophisticated and have temp compensation? Useful for 51 of the 52 week year?

There are times to pour-on-the-coal when matching equipment to duty requirements. Big sophisticated charger, thick plate high amp hour battery bank, and meticulous monitoring. But this is not one of those times.

[time2roll]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
They use the rig once a year and have a generator?

And you are convinced golf car batteries are mandatory?

And a Progressive Dynamics converter is temperature compensated?

And this is the best way to go for one week out of the year?

The existing single 12v appears to have been killed by the current use pattern so yes I agree to upgrade the battery.

GC2 is a good value for a deep cycle battery. Much better battery than typical marine deep cycle and better value than a 12v scrubber battery.

Not temperature compensated but very good in all reasonable conditions. Far and away better than WFCO. Better every day of the year maintaining the battery in tip top condition. Tons better when actually off-grid expecting a fast recharge.

Yes it is best and better for the one week of off-grid and for every day in storage and every day camped with hookups.

MEX you know this 😉

[enblethen]

Mexicowanderer is saying go with a single 12 volt battery. Reading posts many including my self suggested to get two 6 volt batteries. (I said if you were doing a lot of dry camping) This does not hold true for one week per year.
Your converter should do just fine, no need to change.
I would keep a closer eye on water level.

[leatherhead612]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
They use the rig once a year and have a generator?

And you are convinced golf car batteries are mandatory?

And a Progressive Dynamics converter is temperature compensated?

And this is the best way to go for one week out of the year?

Huh?

[MEXICOWANDERER]

They use the rig once a year and have a generator?

And you are convinced golf car batteries are mandatory?

And a Progressive Dynamics converter is temperature compensated?

And this is the best way to go for one week out of the year?

[wa8yxm]

Is it a bad idea to stay plugged in with the battery out or disconnected.

On a 20xx, no problem at all. on a 1970 Perhaps. But the deciding factor is the Converter. Most modern RV's have either a Parallex 7300 or equal (Single stage) or a WFCO, IOTA or Progressive Dynamics 3-stage charger. (PD's are made in Michigan and in my not very humble opinion based upon over a decade of research you will not find a better one.. I've known about this company for years and they make truley great stuff).

Back in the old days you might get a Magnatek 6300.. and if you have one.. UPGRADE to a Progressive Dynamics 4600 line.

[theoldwizard1]

ScottG wrote:
Staying plugged in depends entirely on what converter you have. If it's the type that sits at 13.6VDC all the time then you don't want to leave it that way for ever.

A typical lead acid battery sitting at 13.6V for even 12 hours will be loosing water !

ScottG wrote:
A true deep cycle is best.

leatherhead612 wrote:
I read of folks switching to dual 6V golf cart batteries what is the advantage and is it advisable?

The BIG advantage of golf cart (GC2) batteries is that are the MOST COST EFFECTIVE TRUE DEEP CYCLE WIDELY AVAILABLE ! Yes, there are other sizes of deep cycle batteries available, but you would likely have to special order them and they are a LOT more $$$ !

[J_E]

I have a 2003 Jayco fifth-wheel that came with twin Iota converters. They have a smart charger unit that can be plugged into the converter and as it says, it makes it a smart charger. This will maintain your battery and not over charge it. I leave mine plugged in all the time and check the water level regularly. I got five years out of my last pair of batteries.

[grizzzman]

grizzzman wrote:

leatherhead612 wrote:
So I just checked the battery with my Volt meter. The battery was like 10.17 with no shore power. When i hooked the battery up to the camper and plugged in shore power, then used volt meter it went to 13.65. So from what Ive read and found online, it looks like my converter is putting out the right juice?
So I assume the reason for the failure is/was my lack of checking fluid levels.
What yall think?

The battery has a shorted cell. Replace the battery then test. The shorted battery will cause the converter to try to keep charging it. This in turn causes the converter to overheat causing early failure. That said ya can't go wrong with 6 volt units.

[grizzzman]

Oops

[time2roll]

leatherhead612 wrote:
So I just checked the battery with my Volt meter. The battery was like 10.17 with no shore power. When i hooked the battery up to the camper and plugged in shore power, then used volt meter it went to 13.65. So from what Ive read and found online, it looks like my converter is putting out the right juice?
So I assume the reason for the failure is/was my lack of checking fluid levels.
What yall think?

You have a shorted cell. You now have a 10 volt battery due to the shorted cell. Probably happened due to excessive discharge.

[enblethen]

That is a three stage converter. It should reduce voltage as shown in the specs. WFCO converter specs
Odds are that battery is toast.

[leatherhead612]

looks like my Converter is World Friendshiop CO Ltd brand
Model WF-8955PEC
This is on a 2012 Forest River Wildcat 31BHS
the battery is dated May 2016 it is a Everstart Deep cycle

[enblethen]

The converter is putting out trying to fully charge battery, however once it is charged the converter needs to reduce to a maintain level. If it stays at the higher voltage it will boil the it dry.
Yes, it could be bad battery or just low. Wait say two hours, disconnect the shore power, let it set for an hour or two and recheck voltage. If no or very little increase you need a battery.
Did you locate make and model of converter?