Forum Discussion
BFL13
May 13, 2017Explorer II
Ok you are in business with your new 75 amper. :)
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I am curious where you got it. Strange confusion in delivering a different one from what you ordered. Also I didn't know they make a PM4-LK. I thought they were PM3-LKs. Once PowerMax itself updates their website we should know what is happening with the new models. BoatandRV has some LKs, but is a little chaotic--selling some LKs on Amazon but not yet updating his own website where he is selling older model PMs at half price! Weird, but it will no doubt all get fixed eventually :(
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Earlier you said you had 13.7 at the converter and 12.x at the battery, but in the OP you said the Iota 30 was shot. Before you cut any wires for the Iota, let's revisit that. If the Iota is putting out 13.7 when plugged in to 120 it is working. The 12.x at the battery can have other reasons.
If it is working then IMO you should leave it be as your back up converter, while placing the new converter up front by the batteries.
They don't bother each other.
If the Iota is to come out, leave the battery wires on the fuse panel and just take out the short wires from the converter to the fuse panel.
The left hand hole is for the switch that makes it either a fixed three/four stage automatic converter like usual in RVs OR a single voltage like your Iota without the IQ4---except--when the switch is to single you can now twiddle the voltage pot in the other hole and pick your own single voltage and it will stay at that until you change it.
You can swap back and forth. It is very nifty! :)
Your new 6s will want 14.8 for Bulk and Absorption , so set the single voltage to that and leave it alone after that. When your batteries are charged up, switch to auto and it will drop to 13.6 OR leave it at 14.8 but unplug the 75 and now your Iota will take over doing its 13.6.
BTW if you want you can make it easier to see what you are doing by removing the lid and drilling the holes out bigger and put the lid back on.
---------
I am curious where you got it. Strange confusion in delivering a different one from what you ordered. Also I didn't know they make a PM4-LK. I thought they were PM3-LKs. Once PowerMax itself updates their website we should know what is happening with the new models. BoatandRV has some LKs, but is a little chaotic--selling some LKs on Amazon but not yet updating his own website where he is selling older model PMs at half price! Weird, but it will no doubt all get fixed eventually :(
-----------
Earlier you said you had 13.7 at the converter and 12.x at the battery, but in the OP you said the Iota 30 was shot. Before you cut any wires for the Iota, let's revisit that. If the Iota is putting out 13.7 when plugged in to 120 it is working. The 12.x at the battery can have other reasons.
If it is working then IMO you should leave it be as your back up converter, while placing the new converter up front by the batteries.
They don't bother each other.
If the Iota is to come out, leave the battery wires on the fuse panel and just take out the short wires from the converter to the fuse panel.
The left hand hole is for the switch that makes it either a fixed three/four stage automatic converter like usual in RVs OR a single voltage like your Iota without the IQ4---except--when the switch is to single you can now twiddle the voltage pot in the other hole and pick your own single voltage and it will stay at that until you change it.
You can swap back and forth. It is very nifty! :)
Your new 6s will want 14.8 for Bulk and Absorption , so set the single voltage to that and leave it alone after that. When your batteries are charged up, switch to auto and it will drop to 13.6 OR leave it at 14.8 but unplug the 75 and now your Iota will take over doing its 13.6.
BTW if you want you can make it easier to see what you are doing by removing the lid and drilling the holes out bigger and put the lid back on.
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