Replacing my Converter/Charger - Help
Hi Guys/Gals I have a 25' Weekend Warrior toy hauler and last week in Baja my my Iota DSL-30 converter/charger stopped working I bought a PowerMax PM4 100A converter/charger to replace it I was thi...
Forum Discussion
EDIT--yes, turn it up as high as it goes --16.5 say, and leave it there doing nothing. After half an hour it might suddenly drop by itself to 15.5. (like the old ones do after their 15 minutes) The test is complete after say an hour and hope it is still at 16.5.
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If you leave the frame as the neg path and run a length of #4 as the pos, that would be fine. You expect 75 or so amps so IMO use a 100 amp ANL fuse near the pos battery post. There might be a 40amp (approx.) DC circuit breaker there now from before. Keep that in the pos line going from battery to fuse panel to continue to protect that wire.
If you have the wire, you can improve things a lot by also running #4 from converter to battery on the neg side, paralleling the neg path via the frame. This will reduce the R of the neg path, better than just the frame or just the #4. ( You don't need the pos and neg to be the same R because it is the whole circuit's R that matters, so just reducing the neg part counts for total R reduction. In fact any reduction in R on either path counts to the good.
Leave some slack in your neg wires to the battery. Eventually you will get a Trimetric with its shunt that has to go somewhere, and you will need the slack to reach the shunt. ( All the neg wires (including the wire that now goes from the frame to the neg battery post) then go the shunt, and only one (fat) neg wire then goes from the shunt to the battery.)
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If you leave the frame as the neg path and run a length of #4 as the pos, that would be fine. You expect 75 or so amps so IMO use a 100 amp ANL fuse near the pos battery post. There might be a 40amp (approx.) DC circuit breaker there now from before. Keep that in the pos line going from battery to fuse panel to continue to protect that wire.
If you have the wire, you can improve things a lot by also running #4 from converter to battery on the neg side, paralleling the neg path via the frame. This will reduce the R of the neg path, better than just the frame or just the #4. ( You don't need the pos and neg to be the same R because it is the whole circuit's R that matters, so just reducing the neg part counts for total R reduction. In fact any reduction in R on either path counts to the good.
Leave some slack in your neg wires to the battery. Eventually you will get a Trimetric with its shunt that has to go somewhere, and you will need the slack to reach the shunt. ( All the neg wires (including the wire that now goes from the frame to the neg battery post) then go the shunt, and only one (fat) neg wire then goes from the shunt to the battery.)
