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Road rash and rust, in the arid west?

Naio
Explorer II
Explorer II
My search for a new van continues. Yes, every used vehicle has SOMETHING wrong with it :).

The current candidate seems great -- but it has a LOT of road rash. I don't mind. It's a boondocking rig. But if I keep this van for 8-10 years, will I then have a problem?

The rash on the front has no rust, presumably because of the heat from the radiator. But on the sides, each tiny pock has a speck of rust in its center.

Would it be a good idea to treat with naval jelly, or something similar, and then with a paint kit like DR? Would I end up with broader areas of rust under the paint if I do not? Would I even if I do treat? Is there a better treatment?

Thanks, guys :).
3/4 timing in a DIY van conversion. Backroads, mountains, boondocking, sometimes big cities for a change of pace.
25 REPLIES 25

westend
Explorer
Explorer
Obviously (and why should it be any other way), as a consumer you haven't been behind the wheel of a vehicle that's seen a tough life. The constant daily torture of driving through a mine or on unimproved roads has worn the suspension and axle ends to the point that the steering doesn't respond or feel like others you've driven. The suspension of a vehicle like this has many parts that wear and rely on each other for correct operation. Wear down a ball joint and later there will be a tie rod failure. Worn axle bearings will play havoc with steering gear. Get the drift?

You are probably interested in this vehicle because of price but rebuilding the suspension and having all those parts fail, even in a slow cascade is going to be miserable. If I was buying something like that, I'd replace every wearable part in the front suspension, not a cheap thing to do. I've actually done this.
I'd suggest to keep looking, there are better vehicles out there than something from a mine.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

Naio
Explorer II
Explorer II
Thanks, so much, everyone!

I have another problem with this van -- I wonder if you could help me on that, too? ๐Ÿ™‚

I mentioned a steering problem. It's hard to turn the wheel, it does not return to center, and there is a vibration in the wheel that does NOT change with mph.

I assumed this would be easy to diagnose, and all that we would have to think about was the cost. I was wrong.

I'm guessing the steering problem comes from the same source as the pockmarks -- in a former life, the van belonged to a mining company. It has clearly spent a lot of time at high speed on gravel roads.

I had two mechanics test drive it today. The problem was obvious to my friend who has been test driving vans with me, and to me, but not to the mechanics. I think because they did not have other vans for comparison and we did. Other vans (same make and model) are a zillion times easier to steer.

This stuff matters to me because I have problems with my hands. I cannot drive the van the way it is, but it is otherwise in good mechanical shape and I want to buy it.

Two cause have been suggested to me: power steering pump, and steering box.

It makes sense to me that the van's history would destroy the gearbox. But wouldn't that make the steering overly LOOSE, rather than tight?

The mechanic said the pump sounded fine, and replacing it would be a 'try and see' thing.

You guys have any insights?
3/4 timing in a DIY van conversion. Backroads, mountains, boondocking, sometimes big cities for a change of pace.

DrewE
Explorer II
Explorer II
How much paint chips (and their rust) are worrisome depends somewhat on where you are. If you're going to be in areas where they salt the roads in winter, the rust will, ummm, get rusty a lot more quickly than in the southwest deserts.

Lots of chips, I'd probably sand down and repaint. Few chips, sand them out and touch-up and repaint, filling if deep. For small pocks, I've had better luck with JB-Weld as a body filler than Bondo or similar, mainly because it's closer to the hardness of the metal and hence easier to sand somewhat smooth. It's also slightly less messy to work with.

The alternative view is to just kind of keep an eye on it and see how things develop and only worry about it if it's obvious that something needs to be done. It should not be too hard to find junkyard body panels for a van, if worse comes to worse, since there are many of the exact same ones on the road--assuming this isn't some esoteric van that nobody has heard of. Good Sprinter body panels may be harder to come by than some others because they seemed to like to rust out relatively quickly, at least the earlier ones.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
Naio wrote:
Westend, does the Jasco also remove oxidation from the surrounding paint, and is that a problem if I am going to use one of the products that puts paint only in the pockmarks?

I love their paint stripper for wood :B
Just spray the Jasco mix on everything. Agitate with a soft bristle brush. Spray once more and immediately rinse.
This will be fine to do when using touch up paint or spraying the whole body. Removing oxidation will make for better adhesion and somewhat renew painted surfaces.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Mining company vehicles have a rude habit of having the front wheels pointing at each other.

Take the rig into a -trusted- front end shop and get the steering linkage and suspension components thoroughly checked - even if it costs you money.

Just one road shoulder intense-adrenaline experience had my toad's front tires looking like those on a caterpillar motor grader. NinerBikes was not amused at the positive camber.

This suggestion is meant to be included with the other good suggestions you are getting.

Naio
Explorer II
Explorer II
Westend, does the Jasco also remove oxidation from the surrounding paint, and is that a problem if I am going to use one of the products that puts paint only in the pockmarks?

I love their paint stripper for wood :B
3/4 timing in a DIY van conversion. Backroads, mountains, boondocking, sometimes big cities for a change of pace.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
Just know that rust doesn't sleep. Eventually, any rust spot will be a rust hole. I use Jasco prepaint conditioner at a 50/50 dilution rate on auto finishes. It tends to neutralize the rust and removes any oxidation in the paint.

If you really don't care about cosmetic perfection, remove the rust and repaint.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

Naio
Explorer II
Explorer II
Yes, I am talking about chips.

Of COURSE mechanical stuff is more important! It drives great, except for a steering issue, and is in the mechanic's shop right now for checkup and to diagnose steering.

But the chips, so many of them, are a new thing to me so I want to ask you all if they are a bigger deal than I realise.
3/4 timing in a DIY van conversion. Backroads, mountains, boondocking, sometimes big cities for a change of pace.

TurnThePage
Explorer
Explorer
Are you just talking about rock chips in the paint? If so, and you don't care about the appearance, I wouldn't worry about it. We have two 20 year old vehicles in the family with plenty of rock chips. They remain unchanged as far as I can see.
2015 Ram 1500
2022 Grand Design Imagine XLS 22RBE

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
How does it run, how does it shift
Does it use oil, get hot, leak
Mechanical problems can leave you stranded
My priority is always mechanical first

Body work paint etc.. any number of ways of treating that
Rust on the rocker panel is not going to strand you someplace
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

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1997 F53 Bounder 36s

Naio
Explorer II
Explorer II
The road rash is because the van used to belong to a mining company. This was 9 years ago -- anything else I should look out for, with the many miles of gravel roads?
3/4 timing in a DIY van conversion. Backroads, mountains, boondocking, sometimes big cities for a change of pace.