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janstey58's avatar
janstey58
Explorer
Apr 23, 2014

Roof Air Cleaning

Hi All, I have a 5 year old Bounder MH with 2 roof air units. I can look up through the inside filter access and see the condensation coils are pretty dirty, plus one of the two units definitely has plugged condensation holes (I am getting slight water stains on my ceiling and finding condensation runoff in my outside cargo compartments). I pulled the plastic shroud off one of the units to attempt to clean, but found many screws holding numerous pieces of sheet metal shrouding over the condenser unit. Does anyone have a maintenance guide that would describe how to gain access to the condensation coils, drip pan and weeping holes to clean these units? I believe I have the Coleman Mach 3 units. Thanks, JeffA
  • js6343js6343 wrote:
    -- snip --
    I found that the compressed air cleaned the coils very well without any mess.
    -- snip --
    I am not sure if this cleaning is going to eliminate the condensation leaks I am getting inside the TT, but I will keep my fingers crossed.

    You have to make sure the "weep holes" are clean. If they aren't, the condensate drip pan will fill up and overflow into your rig.

    You can clean the holes with a pipe cleaner.
  • Success here as well. After reading this post and doing research on the internet, I cleaned my a/c coils. One note: I saw a youtube video that used compressed air instead of soaking the coils in a cleaning solution. I found that the compressed air cleaned the coils very well without any mess. You have to use a little caution not to get to close with the air since it is possible to bend a fin or two. But I found this method to be very effective. (I also made sure the clean the filter inside the TT.

    I am not sure if this cleaning is going to eliminate the condensation leaks I am getting inside the TT, but I will keep my fingers crossed.
  • Success! I purchased A/C condenser cleaner at Home Depot, open the hood on the A/C units, and sprayed them down, rinsed, in a matter of minutes. The cleaner even unplugged both weep holes, which were nearly impossible to get to without further dissasembly. Thanks for the info/advice!
  • j-d's avatar
    j-d
    Explorer II
    It's from this RV.net/blog article by Chris Bryant. I've done this on two Coleman Mach units. In the case of the first one, 20+ years old, I was able to continue using one I thought was worn out. On the newer one, 10 years old, I have better and quieter performance.
    I modified Chris' process in two ways:
    1. I found I could use a "deflector" (expired license plate) to shield the opening down into the coach ceiling. That let me actually hose the evaporator coil out.
    2. On the newer unit, I pulled the fan motor out. That let me hose the condenser coil out from behind. More importantly, it let me take the indoor blower wheel (squirrel cage) out and remove the greasy dirt from the insides of the blades.
    Even if the unit "looks clean" the amount of debris that flushes out of the evaporator drip pan will astound you. By cleaning it, you can know that condensate will drain out onto the coach roof and not inside.
    This is a VERY worthwhile project.
  • It's just the cover on an angle facing the front. The sides stay in place.

    I believe the drawing is from Chris Bryant's website. BryantRV.
  • So can I remove all evaporator shround sheet metal screws to remove it without worry of dissembling anything internally to the shroud? That is my biggest worry, otherwise I can just remove all screws and the metal shround lifts off?

    BTW, great pictorial Old-Biscuit!

    Thanks! Jeff
  • Coleman recommends 409 cleaner. Do not use Simple Green.
    I cut the bristles short on a throw away paint brush. I put an old shower curtain on the carpet and put towels around the edges. Spray, brush rinse.
    You might want to tighten the four clamp bolts a turn or so the compress the gasket a little. You don't want to over tighten. Just a single turn should do it.
    I just had to replace my motors and I was surprised how dirty the squirrel cage fan was.
    Covered in mildew. Hard to get to without taking the motor out.
  • Probably get more specific answers if you tell us what A/C you have. But, yes, the evaporator is likely inside the sheet metal on the opposite end of the A/C from the exposed coils of the condenser.

    The evaporator will have to be exposed to clean it.
  • Well you remove the shroud
    Then remove the sealed metal cover over the evap coil
    That will give you access to the evap coil and drip pan

    But it also gives complete access to the inside of RV SOoooooooo

    You have to block off the opening with a heavy towel
    Spray down the evap coil with a cleaner, wipe the fins down with a soft brush
    Clean up the drip pan and clear the drain holes.
    I had to slightly shift the evap coil to get to drain holes as they were under the evap coil.

    When you re-install metal cover seal edges with tape. What to keep that section sealed so the cold air stays inside.

    The condenser coil at rear of unit can be sprayed down and rinsed as it doesn't allow access to inside of RV

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