Rooftop AC not blowing hard

Roy's diagram is great. Chris Bryant posted one also, and included words HERE. I'd strongly suggest doing Chris's Tune-Up. When I did it, following Chris' post, I did a risky "enhancement" and flushed the "inside" coil (techically the Evaporator) with a garden hose and nozzle, having rigged a plate (technically an expired license tag) to deflect water so it didn't go inside. Also had an observer inside. The results were simply stunning. I went from thinking I needed to replace an older Coleman Mach 3, to ice cold A/C.

fpresto - I was making two trips a month from VA to Wichita Falls TX pulling my OFF-ROAD POPUP. Not liking the big roads I always take the lessor traveled road with no big trucks if possible... I was running I59 in North ALA out of Chattanooga and hit this 50-60 mile stretch of concrete road that had a buckle every eight feet. My poor POPUP was coming off the ground no matter how slow I would go... After a couple of trips I noticed my air conditioner was leaking some and found those four long screws loose. Had to re-tighten... My Air conditioner was so loose on top it was scary - I have no idea why I didnt lose it... All of those bumps sure did loosen up those bolts. After I got thru that part I would do my re-tightening and then head on my way...

Even the big trucks would run down the side of the road for those 50-60 miles...

Roy Ken

Very good drawing Roy. A lot of people are under the misconception that the A/C uses outside air. The drawing clearly shows that it recirculates the inside air.
A word of caution do not over tighten the bolts that compress the gasket. They should be snug but not too tight or you will soon be replacing the gasket.
If the coil ices over it is not uncommon for water to drip inside. As was said, just remove the filter and look inside. The ice is easy to spot. Then the question is what causes it to ice over. The most common is a dirty filter. The second is running on low speed on a high humidity day.

You might check the four long screws that sandwich the top and bottom halves of the air conditioner together. They are suppose to be tight enough to depress the 14-Inch gasket between the roof and the air conditioner... You can see the gasket in this pictorial drawing...



This ROOF GASKET will keep any water from the roof area from getting down into the trailer. If the water is coming from the air conditioner parts it may drip down inside the trailer.

When my air conditioner froze over it also dripped inside the trailer...

NOTE: After reading FPRESTO's comment I notice I forgot to say how much the roof gasket needs to be compressed. Mine is somewhere between 1/8-inch and 1/4-inch...

just my thoughts
Roy Ken

I've had it on high for an hour now and it's still blowing hard. But now it's leaking water inside the rv. Now I'm thinking the pan under the evaporator coil is plugged. There's no water on the roof.

Ya I got it on high cool. At first it blows hard for awhile then slows up.

Raymon wrote:
Just a thought: some thermostats have a fan speed control. Check and make sure you didn't accidentally change the setting.

Ray

X2 (happened to me)

Just a thought: some thermostats have a fan speed control. Check and make sure you didn't accidentally change the setting.

Ray

The icing over is quite easy to see from the bottom side with air filter cover dropped down... This happens to us sometimes when it is a real humid night...

For us however we usually just shut down the unit and it is good to go again in 15-30 minutes later.

This could also be a LOW VOLTAGE coming from the camp ground pedestal... I have one of these RV120VAC PLUG in AC VOLTMETER units that I can glance at. I like it because it has the "SAFE ZONE" green scale marked on the front. If the AC VOLTAGE is outside the green scale we will not turn on our air conditioner.




Roy Ken

I checked the filters that are in the rv and they seem to be clean. Ill have to run it today and take the cover back off and see if it is icing up after awhile.