MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
The proper way to do this is way way way too advanced to make it practical.
1st LEECE NEVILLE 260-amp alternator READ 260+ amps
2nd A nightmare of mounting brackets that have to be ABSOLUTELY straight and true
3rd Drive belt or pulley changeover to drive 10 horsepower. $$$$$$$$
4th OO -
2/0 cables from alternator output studs through 200 amp breaker under chassis, sheathed in protector tubing to a pair of one contact 200 amps truck and trailer big rig sockets. NEGATIVE must be done the same way -- 2/0
Then straight to ANOTHER breaker then tied directly to the batteries that feed the inverter. Not straight to the inverter as an isolated power feed. Have problems and a flickering isolated/dedicated feed line to the inverter it will fail the inverter sure as hell.
How do I know all this?
A very wealthy customer had me and a precision machine shop do it thirty years ago. Brackets and pulleys alone cost nine hundred dollars. And the machinist ****** about the number of hours. It turned out to be an almost four thousand dollar modification. thirty years ago. He paid eleven hundred dollars for the alternator alone.
And I swore NEVER AGAIN.
After fifteen or twenty trouble-free years I lost track of the owner.
Ridiculous.
OR, The simplest response is the problem of getting the Engine Alternator power to the REAR of the truck and then connected to the Trailer. You will need large battery cables both negative and Positive to keep the Trailer batteries up and supply enough power to run a AC unit thru the Inverter. You cannot connect this thru the standard 7 way Bargman trailer plug system. Doug
