RV outlets reliable?

pianotuna wrote:
Dusty R,

So use shallow boxes.

I had only one outlet that required a shallow box. In one case, I added an "extra" box which has an extra outlet, too. But that was a case of a wire just 1/2 inch short.

Correct.

Specifically, Carlon makes a shallow 17 cu in "Old work" box with a "sidecar" on the side which can be used in RV walls and will satisfy even the most picky electrician found on this forum for wire fill allowances.

You may need to shim the box back in the wall a bit since RV paneling is typically 1/8"-1/4" thick and these boxes are for 1/2" drywall.

Looks like this..



Can find at Home Depot, perhaps Lowes and if all else fails, Amazon..

And, yeah, I am not impressed with those vampire taps when dealing with high wattage devices, I do prefer some good quality industrial outlets (I think I found those at Lowes). Seem to be more robust, plugs fit tighter than the standard cheap outlets.

myredracer wrote:
Absolutely nothing wrong with them.

The problem sometimes is bad workmanship at the RV factories and there are no inspections of electrical, or actually nothing else either. Below is a photo of a receptacle I found in a previous TT. Black wire only punched onto one of the two stabs and only able to carry 1/2 the current and the stab is bent over. There is a special tool that is supposed to be used for punching down the wires which will prevent this. The 2nd photo is also from a previous TT and has only one wire terminated onto a stab instead of two.

RV "self-contained" receptacles or "SCD" as they're called, are used in mobile homes by the millions without issue. SCDs have to go through extremely rigorous testing to UL approval and if you were to read UL standard 498, you'd have a better opinion of them.

Third photo, from another forum, again shows more bad workmanship. This in NOT how to terminate 3 romex cables in an SCD and is contrary to the manufacturer's instructions. Only two wires are permitted to be on each stab, not three. This is what can happen as a result (overheating).

What is bad is the "back-wired" residential receptacles as shown below. Only one point of contact. If anything should be banned, it's these but they're also out there by the millions. A side-wired receptacle (screw terminal on the side) is definitely no guarantee the monkeys at RV factories would do a better job, and would probably end up being way worse IMO.

I pulled out all our receptacles for inspection and found two with reversed polarity. Again, bad workmanship. I have found quite a few electrical issues, both 12 and 120 volts in our TT and it's not just the SCDs that can be a problem.

If you want piece of mind, pull out all your SCDs and inspect them. Easy to do. You never know what you may find. Installation instructions from Slater can be found here. The factory monkeys apparently don't read the SCD instructions.

End of lecture... :R

I think the old vampire back wired stab residential outlets were either banned or mfg have pretty much quite selling them, at least in the U.S. All the "backwire" residential outlets I've seen in the last few years have gone to a plate that captures the wire and is then tightened down by the screw that otherwise would go around a sidewire connection. I've found them to be very reliable and easier to use than the old side terminal wrap around.

But then wire nuts have lost favor and are now replaced in many cases by something more like the old vampire connection. I don't use those either.

The electric jackhammer I purchased for Jesus, demands a 20-amp receptacle and ten gauge wire protected by a 30-amp breaker. My 1875 watt Sanyo commercial microwave (It's huge) also demands a 20-amp service.

I proved beyond a doubt that 10 gauge wire belongs crimped to a soldered spade terminal then squeezed under a side loading screw?

How?

I tried it both ways. Carefully looping a 10 gauge building wire around a side loading screw and then pulling 24 amps through this connection measuring the heat buildup after a half hour, then soldering a spade terminal and doing it again. There was a FORTY DEGREE F gain with the curl and a 9-degree rise with the bare curl. Simple! A 90% contact area with the spade versus?. I quickly yanked both plugs and the curl burned my fingers, the spade was merely warm.

Tightened screws with the bare curl were twisted loose MUCH MUCH easier when tightened down against a curl. Tightened spade terminals came loose with an audible "snap". About double the torque.

I dislike doing my work over, even after years of service. Landfill for nothing.

I have had two of 'em fail on me both caught before dangerous
I have seen photos of them seriously burned up with fire danger

They really are not trustworthy in the double digit amps range.

Not just my opinion but I installed a set of special "heater" outlets. these are 15/20 amp (like the wattgate one above) with 12 ga wire bent around a well tightened screw.. NO problmes with them (They are also a different color to set 'em off) Tjey can pass 12.5 amps all day long with no overheating of the wire/outlet.

I was able to get rid of all but one of the cheap pieces of junk.

Hospital Grade receptacles are tested with a plug having a rigid shaft attached to it a foot long. The end of the shaft is pulled at a 90 degree angle to the receptacle to remove it - just as if the cord was attached to a hospital bed which was being shoved sideways. The receptacle must not be damaged by this type of treatment.

Don't try that as home unless you've got another receptacle handy.

OUTSIDE
This is what I was forced to use on a patio 66 feet above the crashing surf in the tropics.



Same with the power plug. Thick gold plated.

Then packed solid with silicone grease.

NOT A RECOMMENDATION!
merely to show how extensive protection can get.
spec
'Marine nickel plated nylon receptacles are next.

Then Federal Spec (green triangle)

If you use insulation piercing receptacles please park at least 150' away from me so I can avoid heat and smoke damage

Hospital Grade (green dot)

Spec grade

Ordinary grade

Then scumbag like shown in this thread.

Mexican electricians UTTERLY REFUSE to handle insulation piercing switches and receptacles. Is this a clue how low they are rated? Hand them an insulation piercing gizmo and they'll give you a look that implies you are utterly stupid.

Hospital grade and better have a NYLON, not plastic housing. No chips around the contact holes.

Dusty R,

So use shallow boxes.

I had only one outlet that required a shallow box. In one case, I added an "extra" box which has an extra outlet, too. But that was a case of a wire just 1/2 inch short.

That type of electric receptacle/outlet is used in mobile homes as well as RV's. The boxes that regular outlets and switches are installed in are sized by the size and number of wires that are in that box. One can check the National Electrical Code to see what size is needed. There are few places in an RV that there would be room for standard outlet with the required box.

They are, imo, junk. I've replaced all but one of the OEM outlets with top of the line screw terminal ones. That did require me to install boxes.

I wish I had taken a picture of one that did not enjoy a 750 watt heater.

My replacement outlets have traveled 196,000 miles over ten years. They are still in great shape and the screws remain tight. (I check a different one each year.)