Schwintek slide - how to access motor / harness on 2011 unit

[joebedford]

I'm getting an error code of 8.2 on my bedroom slide Schwintek controller: Hall effect signal not being received from motor two. Result is that the slide rear moves fine but front moves a couple of inches then stops. Fortunately the manual / electronic override works fine so I can move the slide in / out if I have to (so no mechanical jam in the mechanism). The debug chart says this is usually a wiring problem.

I know there are several videos on YouTube showing how to access the motor from inside the rig. Unfortunately, that appears to be an innovation made after mine was built. To access the wiring, I thought I'd be able to remove a piece of metal 'trim' that's screwed to the exterior wall of my rig, but that 'trim' appears to be the actual mounting for the Schwintek mechanism (the bearing blocks are riveted to it).

I'm trying to do a continuity check on the harness as LCI has advised that's the next step in the debug process. From the outside I can see the wires that go into the motor but can't reach the connector.

I think I have to push the Schwintek mount out a couple of inches to access the wiring and the motor. This sounds a bit scary to me. LCI wouldn't confirm this. They said "We didn't install it in your rig - you have to call the manufacturer".

Has anybody done this? Any other helpful suggestions?

I've had my Voltage 3950 since it was new and this is the first time since PDI that the slides have acted up.

[Ozlander]

Joe,
You do good work.
I'm with you, I'd rather fix it than have somebody else learn how to on my dime.

[joebedford]

LCI tried to help me. They responded to my queries both email and phone but I didn't seem to be able to make them understand that my rig didn't have motor removal slots. Or, maybe for liability reasons, they didn't give somebody advice who's going to go at the thing with an angle grinder and cutoff wheel.

The whole thing was a royal pita - a little more advice from LCI would have helped me a lot.

[dougrainer]

joebedford wrote:
LCI says two seconds. It took a couple of cycles where I held it for probably 4 seconds and it was done.

2 or 15 makes no difference:B I tell customers 15 to make sure they push long enough. It times out after that first 2 or 3 seconds. You should ALWAYS hold the button that extra 2 or more seconds each time you extend or retract. Doug

PS. LCI says a LOT of things, that are not actually correct;)

[joebedford]

LCI says two seconds. It took a couple of cycles where I held it for probably 4 seconds and it was done.

[dougrainer]

joebedford wrote:
Popped the new motor in today. After two cycles, the controller successfully resync'd the motors.

Now to repair the wiring on the old one so I'll have a spare.

To Synch the motors is simple. You just hold the extend and retract button for 15 seconds AFTER the extend or retract. THAT synchs the motors in the module memory. Doug

[joebedford]

Popped the new motor in today. After two cycles, the controller successfully resync'd the motors.

Now to repair the wiring on the old one so I'll have a spare.

[joebedford]

It's not pretty, but I got the old motor out. I bought a Dewalt metal cutting blade for my oscillating tool but it was a total fail. $30 down the dumper. In the end, I took the shroud off my angle grinder and was able hold it sort of upside down and make the vertical cut. The horizontals I did with a cutoff wheel on my Dremel.



This is the old motor. Why two wires would break at the same time is beyond me. I'm pretty sure I can clear the old solder pads and splice in new wires. Then I'll have a spare motor.

[joebedford]

I took this screenshot off one of LCI's "How to repair your Schwintek slide" videos. The notch shown here is what I have to cut into my bedroom slide rail while the slide is in place.

[joebedford]

Kenneth Neal wrote:
I therefore took an oscillating multi-tool with a carbide blade and cut my own notch in the column. The column is made of aluminum so it's not that tough to cut. The notch is 1 inch wide and 5.25 inches long.

Excellent idea about the multi-tool to cut the notch.

I was sitting in my RV staring at that Schwintek frame saying to myself "I don't want to remove that frame. I don't want to remove that frame. etc." I think Dutchmen put eternabond on the slide frame rails which is really good until you want to remove the frame. I don't think I could budge the frame without damaging the lamination and gel-coat on the RV side.

Then I had the brainstorm to cut a notch but I can barely get my hand in there (slide fascia and cupboards). I was going to post a question here asking how to cut the notch, but you presciently answered my question. Thanks.

I'll let you know how it works out. Maybe photos if it goes well :B

[Kenneth_Neal]

I too have the older style Schwintek system in my 2012 Daybreak. To access the motors the outside column needs to be unfastened (in my case rivets) and pulled away from the outside wall. This is no trivial procedure. I've had four motor failures so I'm quite familiar with your problem. The newer models have a notch cut into the column on the inside which allows easy access to the motors. I therefore took an oscillating multi-tool with a carbide blade and cut my own notch in the column. The column is made of aluminum so it's not that tough to cut. The notch is 1 inch wide and 5.25 inches long.

[joebedford]

They quoted me $206 for a new motor, but they're selling it on Amazon for $136.

[joebedford]

I guess I'll order a new motor then attempt to repair the broken one. Maybe I'll end up with a spare.

[joebedford]

Here's the reply from Lippert:

"Ultimately that is up to you if you want to try it or not. It is possible to fix that way, but i can not promise anything. You may be looking at a new motor, but you also may be able to attach the wires."

[dougrainer]

joebedford wrote:
I found a Schwintek repair manual in some obscure place. It said move the slide out a few inches, then undo the screws on the outside of the frame. Then put a 2x4 on top of the slide. Push the IN button - the slide can't go in so the frame comes out!! There's the motor.

I pulled enough wipes and weatherstripping off on the inside that I could see the harness, connector and wires going to the motor. The harness and connector are fine but the blue and green wires are disconnected from the motor - they are the Hall effect sensor wires so of course the controller freaks.

I've emailed LCI to ask if I'll be able to reconnect the wires if I wrestle the motor out. Otherwise it's time for a new motor.

Who knows what caused two wires to suddenly detach.

The solder is extremely difficult to do. Just get a new motor. Doug