Seeking refrigerator tips... in AZ and heat is hampering...

[groundhogy]

.. its ability to keep cold.

I don't know much about these units, but I assume the idea is to keep the back coils cooler?

I have seen one guy with a fan in the outside compartment.
But that's just blowing 110 degree air on the coils.

I am kind of thinking of one of those tiny swamp coolers that they advertise on TV.

Any comments or education welcome.
thanks..

[lostbytes]

wolfe10 wrote:

Actually, by far the BEST location for the muffin fans is at the top of the condenser blowing out the roof/upper vent. Much more linear flow/less turbulence over the condenser.

Also insure that your refrigerator manufacturer's installation clearances ARE correct. Many have a space above the refrigerator which leads to both turbulence and the retention of heat.

Same for verifying clearance from back of refrigerator to outside wall. Too much is NOT good. It is all in your refrigerator installation manual.

I stand corrected on this one.

[wopachop]

Actually thats not true. Its not the most effective. Fans on the cooling fins i consider the most effective warm weather fridge modification. Next is additional fans in the back ventilation section. I think most fridges have a small one back there. I can hear mine rattling away sometimes.

[wopachop]

The cheapest and most effective warm weather fridge mod you can do is the cardboard trick.

[wopachop]

Hope it works out. Another trick i do during the summer is try to use more frozen foods. I got a beer in the freezer right now getting cold. Even stuff like leftover pizza can go inside the freezer instead of the fridge.

Oh...check this out. Cut a piece of cardboard the width of the fridge and 1 foot tall. STuff that to the bottom section of the fridge. It will retain cold air from dropping out every time you open the door. I did that last year and the same piece of cardboard is still there. Made a thread with pictures.

[groundhogy]

OP:

Well, it’s back to being a fridge instead of a nice warm incubator. Im sure temperature wise it still needs improvement. I have not yet pulled out my thermometer.
I have the tiny (its significantly smaller than it looks on TeeWee) arctic air swamp cooler in there plus a little muffin fan.

I will likely upgrade the little muffin fan.
Also considering expanding the water tank on the arctic air. Maybe a largerupside down pepsi bottle. Kind of like those dog bowls with a 2 liter pepsi bottle.

[wopachop]

wolfe10 wrote:

Actually, by far the BEST location for the muffin fans is at the top of the condenser blowing out the roof/upper vent. Much more linear flow/less turbulence over the condenser.

Have you come across centrally located fridges? The lower vent is through the trailer floor.

Curious your opinion on fan placement for that type of setup. My manual wants me to put the fan down low in the floor space. I did that because it was easy. Trying to think of the difference between pushing air and pulling air. Turbulence as you mention.

[wolfe10]

lostbytes wrote:

To add to the above statements. If you use a fan in the back. Make sure propane RUNNING FLAME or pilot flame will not be interfered with. Those computer type fans should be ok but more powerful ones? I used to have my flame door opened on my other RVs. Now I don't.

Actually, by far the BEST location for the muffin fans is at the top of the condenser blowing out the roof/upper vent. Much more linear flow/less turbulence over the condenser.

Also insure that your refrigerator manufacturer's installation clearances ARE correct. Many have a space above the refrigerator which leads to both turbulence and the retention of heat.

Same for verifying clearance from back of refrigerator to outside wall. Too much is NOT good. It is all in your refrigerator installation manual.

[wopachop]

Doubt the fella in AZ is boondocking with fridge on propane.

Your stove is pressurized with propane. How many people turn off the tanks before bed?

The hole you make to add cold air behind the fridge will be higher than the lowest vent. If there was a propane leak, it would fall down and out the trailer.

If any of this seems confusing or dangerous then dont do it. If you are somewhat mechanically inclined and able to think for yourself then determine if you see an actual risk. This is not a daily ritual. Its just when temps get to scorching level and the absorption fridge just cant cool when its getting 100F air up the backside.

[lostbytes]

wolfe10 wrote:

wopachop wrote:
Not the safest approach but if youre living inside the unit with your AC running figure out a way to let the cold interior air enter the back section of the fridge. Ive been doing that for awhile. Most people dont really understand the concept. It works pretty good if you are already spending the money to cool the inside of your trailer and stuck with an absorption fridge. You can vent 80F degree air up the back of the fridge instead of 110F.

The most important statement is the first one: NOT THE SAFEST APPROACH.

Propane can leak when refrigerator is running on propane. It could also start leaking when it is not running from the propane connections and solenoid in the back of the refrigerator.

PLEASE don't do this, particularly if the vent is lower on the inside than the location in the back of the refrigerator, as propane is heavier than air and will happily descend into your interior.

To add to the above statements. If you use a fan in the back. Make sure propane RUNNING FLAME or pilot flame will not be interfered with. Those computer type fans should be ok but more powerful ones? I used to have my flame door opened on my other RVs. Now I don't.

[wolfe10]

wopachop wrote:
Not the safest approach but if youre living inside the unit with your AC running figure out a way to let the cold interior air enter the back section of the fridge. Ive been doing that for awhile. Most people dont really understand the concept. It works pretty good if you are already spending the money to cool the inside of your trailer and stuck with an absorption fridge. You can vent 80F degree air up the back of the fridge instead of 110F.

The most important statement is the first one: NOT THE SAFEST APPROACH.

Propane can leak when refrigerator is running on propane. It could also start leaking when it is not running from the propane connections and solenoid in the back of the refrigerator.

PLEASE don't do this, particularly if the vent is lower on the inside than the location in the back of the refrigerator, as propane is heavier than air and will happily descend into your interior.

[wopachop]

groundhogy wrote:
There is a muffin fan inside the fridge, but adding another may be my next step depending on my results.

Im running 4 fans. 3 inside the fridge and 1 outside. Going on my 3rd year of mega hot full timing with an absorption fridge. I want to help you if interested. Ive tried lots of weird stuff. The old folks on here 24/7 wont comprehend these new techniques. Their intentions are good but their info is just mediocre outdated nonsense they typed over and over back in the day. Up to you to decide. All im trying to say if that if youre in AZ and its 110F outside i can help you to make your absorption fridge get below 40F.

[groundhogy]

There is a muffin fan inside the fridge, but adding another may be my next step depending on my results.

[wopachop]

Is the fan battery powered?
If yes, it might work better inside the fridge blowing onto the cooling fins.
You need both. Fans inside the fridge. Fans behind the fridge in the vent area.

The evaporative cooler might be supplying enough air flow in the vent area. If thats the case, putting the other small fan inside the fridge blowing onto the cooling fins will help a bunch.

[groundhogy]

Just placed arctic air evaporative cooler in the outside fridge compartment tonight. Also had a very small fan on hand. Also in there pointed up.
Will report back.