We have a 2007 Jayco 25z featherlite camper with a fridge that runs on gas or electric. The past couple of times I've used the trailer the unit just does not want to get to temp. The freezer has gotten down to 30 over night and the fridge has gotten to 50. I've tried on gas and electric with the same results. Is it dead? Or am I over looking another fix? I don't know anything about these types of refrigerators and hoping someone can send some knowledge my way. Thanks in advance yall!

several things to look at, one is the vent in the back clean, is the vwbt tube for the burner clean? there is also a small tab on the right side of the fins inside the frig that you can move up and down for tem change. maybe someone can pipe in and say which way is up or down temp wise

Make sure Rv is level. Putting a small fan in the back to dissipate the heat often works wonders especially when the outside temperatures are high or the RV is in the sun.

Check the burner area for yellow/green corrosion. Access is via the outside panel. The corrosion means the refrigerant has leaked out and you'll need to replace the fridge.

Pull the thermister off the coil fins in the fridge which will put it on full blast. If it doesn't cool then you have a dead unit.Mine is being replaced as I write this. Added a fan kit also.

Which Brand/Model is this fridge......????Generic helpInside the food compartment is a temp sensor (thermistor)It is held onto one of the fins by clip. It senses the temp of the fin which the fridge thermostat controls uses to regulate the cooling cycles (turn heat source on/off)If Dometic it will be on far right fin'If Norcold typically on the 10th fin from rightIn outside compartment is the 'control module' Unplug 120V AC power cord, 12V DC leads etc to remove cover on module.Then unplug the 2 leads for the thermistorReplace cover and AC/DC power leadsTurn fridge on and run overnight......w/o thermistor plugged in the fridge will cool continuously. Freezer should get down to 0*F and food compartment should reach 38*F or lower.If it does..........bad thermistor.....replaceProvided you do NOT see any yellowish powder/residue when you inspect around burner area as mentioned in above post

Seeking refrigerator advice! | Good Sam Community

16 Replies

daka320
Explorer
Jul 17, 2017
Idea for TyandKate. Place a fan outside of the vent to the back of your frig. Make sure the fan is angled so airflow enters the lower vents. Leave the fan on for at least a day or overnight. See if this helps to cool your frig down.
Both of the fans I orginally installed stopped working on the back of our frig. Temps here climbed into the 90s and the frig temp climbed to 55 and the freezer up to 40. I did the above and the frig temp dropped to normal in about a day. Went to Frys Electronics and installed two 12v computer fans in the top of the frig vent. They have kept in cold. Also, place an internal frig fan inside to keep the air moving. Think I spent less than $50 on both fans, wiring, and an in-line fuse.
Tyandkate
Explorer
Jul 17, 2017
Thanks old buiscuit I did disconnect the thermistor with no different result. I've now gotta make the decision to replace the unit with one like it or just to switch over to a residential unit that will fit in it's spot. We never camp off the grid so I'm thinking a 300 dollar fridge sounds better than a 1300 dollar one.
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Jul 16, 2017
With thermistor dangling the fridge controls should have been operating continuously.....freezer S/B 0*F and food compartment 38*F or lower

29*F in freezer....food compartment will never get below 40*F (or even stay at 40*)

All cooling effect goes to 'low temp evap' (freezer section) 1st
Until it gets cold enough the ammonia can not accept any more heat from 'high temp evap' (Food Compartment) so food compartment temps can NOT go down.

Unplug that thermistor and let it run........see it freezer temps will go down
If freezer temps get 5*F lower then food compartment can cool down.
If so.......thermistor bad----replace'
If not........cooling unit blocked/obstructed.....replace

Red light ---solid of flashing means no cooling
Green light solid.working
Green light flashing,......working on electric but no temp sensing

Manual linked is infomative BUT covers whole 'N' Series

This one is for N611/N811
N611/N811
Tyandkate
Explorer
Jul 16, 2017
UPDATE** we've got some much needed rain last night the fridge was on electric power. The fridge temp is 40 which is right on the money according to my fridge thermometer the freezer is hanging out around 29 and the ice trays are frozen. I have the thermistor just dangling it's not attached to a fin. I also referred to the book but it's not giving me any flashing lights now just a solid green on light. Am I just expecting more out of this fridge than it can produce?
LanceRKeys
Explorer
Jul 16, 2017
Good timing on this post! I am having the same problem. My freezer gets cold almost instantly, but the fridge doesn't get cool at all. Reading through the service manual now, the help is appreciated.
drsteve
Explorer
Jul 16, 2017
Here is a link to the service manual for your Norcold. It has an extensive and detailed troubleshooting guide.

Clicky
jungleexplorer
Explorer
Jul 16, 2017
Make sure the door is sealing properly. Sometimes it is the simple things. A leaky door seal will cause these symptoms.
Tyandkate
Explorer
Jul 16, 2017
I've tried both to get the same result. And the light flashing was red.
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Jul 15, 2017
Running it on electric or propane?

Color of flashing indicator light.....Green, Amber, RED??
Tyandkate
Explorer
Jul 15, 2017
I have a norcold N611. I disconnected the sensing bulb yesterday now at about 29 hours later the fridge is at 50 the freezer is at 35. There are about 7 can sodas in the fridege and 4 of the freeze ice blocks in the freezer the camper is sitting level in my driveway. The burner assembly is clean.