Slide shaft ripping bracket Weld?

Horsedoc wrote:


My grandson thinks we can weld and re-inforce the bracket. I think that would work as well. However, there three slide controller along with a controller for the bed on this coach. I worry about the sensitivity of these controllers and what welding around them might do.

He wants to take battery cables off the coach and starting batterie and place the negative lead for the welder against the bracket we are welding on. I think it can be strapped and reinforced with more steel and bolts and not risk damage to the electricson the coach.
Opinions?

As to welding and sensitive electronics. I'll pass along what we do in general industry at work when welding on any machine with sensitive electronics to help the cause in case you go the welding route.

For a camper/motor home, I would say, yes unhook the batteries. Both leads unhooked. If the batteries are near the welding, consider removing them in case hydrogen gassing is going on. While with no load or charging going on at the battery, gassing should be low to none but hydrogen is not very forgiving to sparks. Also be alert to the onboard fuel tank. If there are sensitive controllers that can be unplugged without a lot of work, that is a prudent thing to do.

We have to weld on piping systems or machines with hundreds of low voltage DC controls on them. And many of these systems have computers or PLC's (programmable logic controllers) In these cases, we unhook the computers and pull the PLC out of the main I/O rack. The machine is also disconnected from live AC or DC power. The system is electrically dead at this point.

Now to the welder person, they "have" to put the welder ground lead ideally right on the part they are welding to with a solid/tight/corrosion free connection. NOT many feet away, and for sure not through metal connections on painted metal. By having the welder ground lead right on the part the weld arc is being made, it greatly reduces noise spikes running through the machine. And grind off paint/rust/dirt etc. so the ground makes a solid connection and the ground clamp is tight.

That welding process works 99% of the time. There are no 100% guarantees, but the odds are in your favor if the welding ground is right on the work piece. We have survived not toasting $1,000's of dollars of sensitive instruments that are in the hundreds of items and not practical to remove using the above method. But, there is always a but... You have to make darn sure the welding person themselves, understands and follows the plan.

Hope this helps.

John

The best advice I've seen comes in parts in this case.
1: Disconnect battery negative cables before doing anything else (Both main (Chassis) and aux (house) on a motor home

2 If there are electronics NEAR where you are welding.. Unplug and remove be sure to mark so you put 'em back properly

3: Make sure you have a SOLID chassis ground on the welder lead No paint. NO rust. Bare shiney metal

Finally: Standard precautions taken any time you weld

on my rig I had a bracket break as well however it was removable so they welded up the new one on a bench then bolted it back in place WAY better than the oem .

I like your plan. Bolt some metal on.