Slow start system for air conditioner

[Goldbrick]

I have a 13 amp air conditioner that works fine but when not connected to a land electrical source but with my 2200 Honda generator (16 amps) it just about starts up. In looking for what’s called a slow start system there are a number of units in the $350.00 area. I’ve also found a hard start capcitor kit that appears to do the same thing for $20.00. Can someone explain the difference

[deltabravo]

www.microair.net is the one I use.
Use discount code of FATE to get $25.00 off.

I installed one on my Coleman Mach 8 a few years ago. I show how to install it in this video

[Cptnvideo]

Cptnvideo wrote:

Itinerant1 wrote:

Cptnvideo wrote:
"Lugging around 130# or more generator doesn't sound like fun."

My 3500 watt Harbor Freight inverter/generator (which I rarely need or use) is always in the truck bed. Its heavy, but I only have to move it to the tailgate, so weight is not much of an issue.

Your solar/ battery system is very similar to mine and in 6 years of continuous boondocking I have never felt anything larger than 2-2200w generator was needed, whether throwing a hold over charge or running the AC even at 7-8,000' elevation on a hot day. I suppose having the hydrid inverter/ charger has its advantages though.

If a person had the large generator before hand and don't mind carrying it in the bed of the truck no reason to get rid of it. Having options for different camping....glamping needs makes roughing it easier. 😉

We actually bought the genny just before taking delivery of the 5th wheel. I debated about how much genny to buy and finally decided I would rather have too much than not enough.
BTW, we're currently boondocking at the edge of the Mogollon Rim in AZ at an elevation of 7856'. Definitely no need for A/C.

[Cptnvideo]

Itinerant1 wrote:

Cptnvideo wrote:
"Lugging around 130# or more generator doesn't sound like fun."

My 3500 watt Harbor Freight inverter/generator (which I rarely need or use) is always in the truck bed. Its heavy, but I only have to move it to the tailgate, so weight is not much of an issue.

Your solar/ battery system is very similar to mine and in 6 years of continuous boondocking I have never felt anything larger than 2-2200w generator was needed, whether throwing a hold over charge or running the AC even at 7-8,000' elevation on a hot day. I suppose having the hydrid inverter/ charger has its advantages though.

If a person had the large generator before hand and don't mind carrying it in the bed of the truck no reason to get rid of it. Having options for different camping....glamping needs makes roughing it easier. 😉

[Cptnvideo]

Itinerant1 wrote:

Cptnvideo wrote:
"Lugging around 130# or more generator doesn't sound like fun."

My 3500 watt Harbor Freight inverter/generator (which I rarely need or use) is always in the truck bed. Its heavy, but I only have to move it to the tailgate, so weight is not much of an issue.

Your solar/ battery system is very similar to mine and in 6 years of continuous boondocking I have never felt anything larger than 2-2200w generator was needed, whether throwing a hold over charge or running the AC even at 7-8,000' elevation on a hot day. I suppose having the hydrid inverter/ charger has its advantages though.

If a person had the large generator before hand and don't mind carrying it in the bed of the truck no reason to get rid of it. Having options for different camping....glamping needs makes roughing it easier. 😉

We actually bought the genny just before taking delivery of the 5th wheel. I debated about how much genny to buy but finally decided to have more than needed than the other way around.
BTW, we're currently at 7856' elevation on the edge of the Mogollon Rim.

[Itinerant1]

Cptnvideo wrote:
"Lugging around 130# or more generator doesn't sound like fun."

My 3500 watt Harbor Freight inverter/generator (which I rarely need or use) is always in the truck bed. Its heavy, but I only have to move it to the tailgate, so weight is not much of an issue.

Your solar/ battery system is very similar to mine and in 6 years of continuous boondocking I have never felt anything larger than 2-2200w generator was needed, whether throwing a hold over charge or running the AC even at 7-8,000' elevation on a hot day. I suppose having the hydrid inverter/ charger has its advantages though.

If a person had the large generator before hand and don't mind carrying it in the bed of the truck no reason to get rid of it. Having options for different camping....glamping needs makes roughing it easier. 😉

[Cptnvideo]

"Lugging around 130# or more generator doesn't sound like fun."

My 3500 watt Harbor Freight inverter/generator (which I rarely need or use) is always in the truck bed. Its heavy, but I only have to move it to the tailgate, so weight is not much of an issue.

[Itinerant1]

If the AC is running for cooling the trailer aren't you in it and most likely have other things on (tv, radio)? So how loud is the 2000w or 2200w generator? Where is it placed under your chair window?

I know when my 2000 or 2200w generator is running for long periods with the air conditioning I don’t hear it inside but then I'll connect a second 30a cord to my 50a which will put the generator 25' away with the exhaust blowing away from the 5th wheel.

Lugging around 130# or more generator doesn't sound like fun.

[valhalla360]

MFL wrote:

2oldman wrote:
That one generator will be working hard and LOUD running it, and you'll have a heck of a time running anything else, including your converter.

^^This...just not the right tool for the job. If you want to run the air, and other things, better to add/connect second generator, or sell/trade the 2200 and purchase a more capable single.

Jerry

Even if it can run it...so much for it being a quiet generator.

When you see the dB ratings, it's almost always at 25% load, so slightly above idle. A little 2000-2200w generator is running at somewhere around 80-100% of the continuous load rating powering the air/con and even the name brand honda/yamaha units start to sound like a lawnmower.

On the other hand, with a 3000-4000w unit, it's running around 30-50% load and much closer to the dB rating you see in the advertising.

We just replaced a Yamaha 2400 with a Champion 4500. The new generator is substantially quieter with the air/con running (even though the advertised dB ratings are worse) because it barely comes off idle. Yes, it's a little heavier but not drastically.

[Bobbo]

Sophia11 wrote:

Bobbo wrote:

Is there an extended run tank for the Yamaha like there is for the Honda?

Yes, there is an extended run tank for the Yamaha. The Yamaha extended run tank has a capacity of about 35.4 gallons. The tank has a threaded locking cap, which makes it easy to install or remove the tank for refilling.

35.4 gallons????? That must be hard to carry around! I am happy with my 3 gallon tank for my Honda.

[Sophia11]

Bobbo wrote:

Is there an extended run tank for the Yamaha like there is for the Honda?

Yes, there is an extended run tank for the Yamaha. The Yamaha extended run tank has a capacity of about 35.4 gallons. The tank has a threaded locking cap, which makes it easy to install or remove the tank for refilling.

[Bobbo]

Sophia11 wrote:
I have use Yamahas generators its far better than Honda

Is there an extended run tank for the Yamaha like there is for the Honda?

[Sophia11]

I have use Yamahas generators its far better than Honda

[Microlite_Mike]

RLS7201 wrote:

theoldwizard1 wrote:

time2roll wrote:
The $20 kits are generally an additional start capacitor. These work great on the older models that had none. Most of the newer models already have this feature and the kit would have limited effect.

Without getting into the electrical engineering of AC motors, a larger or an additional starting capacitor could making starting current draw worse !

EasyStart by Micro-Air is a highly recommended soft starter.

Please, if you would, get into electrical engineering and explain to us how additional capacitance will raise AC motor starting current line draw.



Richard

Let's start with the inrush current that goes to charging the capacitor before it delivers the "boost" to the starting windings.

There's also a Youtube video or two actually showing the extra current needed.

Here's another analysisHard start Capacitor vs Soft Start

Also some more information on what a hard start actually does:

Start Capacitors and Inrush, fact and fiction

A hard start capacitor does not reduce inrush or starting current, it just shortens the amount of time the motor remains in "locked Rotor Amperage" speed. Also note in the linked info how most ammeters are not reading the actual starting current but rather the current ~100 ms after startup begins.

[RLS7201]

theoldwizard1 wrote:

time2roll wrote:
The $20 kits are generally an additional start capacitor. These work great on the older models that had none. Most of the newer models already have this feature and the kit would have limited effect.

Without getting into the electrical engineering of AC motors, a larger or an additional starting capacitor could making starting current draw worse !

EasyStart by Micro-Air is a highly recommended soft starter.

Please, if you would, get into electrical engineering and explain to us how additional capacitance will raise AC motor starting current line draw.

Richard