[SOLVED] 3 way fridge won't run on 12v
Edit: Solved The switch, which I had previously determined was the problem and replaced, was in fact the problem. Replacing the switch with a new one had fixed the original problem. However, the is...
Forum Discussion
Wonderful!
And Congratulations! You looked carefully for adjoining issues and found the problem! I'm not very good at complex wiring diagrams, and far worse at anything electronic. But I can sometimes find something that just doesn't feel or look right and that turns out to be the problem.
So this is a Rotary Switch? We had an old Dometic, RM763, and it had a very complex rotary switch. As I recall, the Knob was part of the Panel that covered the switch, so it could have been easy to not have it connect mechanically or be cracked and not turn the switch far enough.
Our 763 had an independent circuit for 12VDC. A lead from Engine Ignition closed a Bosch Relay that powered the 12VDC element. It was billed as "keep cold" and not able to actually chill the fridge and maintain cold for camping. No thermostat involved. Not even sure the logic board would prevent 12VDC operation if the the Fridge was actually running on LPG or 120VAC.
It's a good thing you didn't get zapped by 120 while you were in there looking for 12! Nice thing about a Fridge is we can usually unplug it right where we're working and know the 120 is OFF. Hard to say what might happen when a Switch like yours is OFF. I think the 763 switch was still made up in OFF. I do remember that some of its many terminals were jumpered.
And Congratulations! You looked carefully for adjoining issues and found the problem! I'm not very good at complex wiring diagrams, and far worse at anything electronic. But I can sometimes find something that just doesn't feel or look right and that turns out to be the problem.
So this is a Rotary Switch? We had an old Dometic, RM763, and it had a very complex rotary switch. As I recall, the Knob was part of the Panel that covered the switch, so it could have been easy to not have it connect mechanically or be cracked and not turn the switch far enough.
Our 763 had an independent circuit for 12VDC. A lead from Engine Ignition closed a Bosch Relay that powered the 12VDC element. It was billed as "keep cold" and not able to actually chill the fridge and maintain cold for camping. No thermostat involved. Not even sure the logic board would prevent 12VDC operation if the the Fridge was actually running on LPG or 120VAC.
It's a good thing you didn't get zapped by 120 while you were in there looking for 12! Nice thing about a Fridge is we can usually unplug it right where we're working and know the 120 is OFF. Hard to say what might happen when a Switch like yours is OFF. I think the 763 switch was still made up in OFF. I do remember that some of its many terminals were jumpered.
