I spent about 1/2 an hour searching this question. I'm sure it has been talked about before but I couldn't find it. Anyway, the Thor owners manual for my rig says to run the engine for 30 minutes each month while it is in winter storage. I have been doing this but I'm wondering if other folks do this too.. I hope I posted this in the right forum..

Just wondering if its on a charger in storage.

I cannot answer about a diesel pusher, but for a gas engine, I did the same when I was not full-timing. But, I was told, that unless I ran it through all the gears (R,P,N,D1,D2) I was doing more damage than helping as the oil was not lubricating the gears just letting it run in Park. So, I just started taking it out for a Sunday drive and used then also ran the generator on 1/2 to full load, as well. No matter what the temp was. Once a month was a nice outing, for the motorhome an me, about 50 miles each way.

In humid areas it makes sense to periodically warm the engine to distill water out of lube oil. In the desert it may prove to be a waste of time.But Thor or no Thor, to drive contaminants out of crankcase oil means bringing engine OIL temperature up 180 degrees or higher. Forget about radiator coolant temperature - near meaningless.

The point of running the engine is to warm and circulate the engine oil to remove water vapor. Unless you plan to drive the unit far enough to bring the oil temp up to at least 180°, then it's better to let it sit. A static run at idle will only release the water vapor into the engine and start the rusting process.There are kits you can use to seal the engine intake and exhaust to prevent moisture from entering the engine. I've seen aircraft engines pickled in this manner when they are to be left idle over the winter. They also add a pickling oil.The generator should be run with a load at least once a month to remove moisture from the windings.

Thousands of farm engines sit unused all winter as farmers have better things to do than crank up a cold engine. Unfortunately my DP has sat since June (have not started it or the generator) but I will start it up on Sunday so I can leave on Monday.

Starting the Engine during the Winter | Good Sam Community

kevden
Explorer
Dec 20, 2017
If my truck has not been run for a while, I press the throttle to the floor while cranking for about 5 or 10 seconds. This shuts off the injectors and builds oil pressure so the engine is not fired up completely dry. Then crank and start normally.
John_Joey
Explorer
Dec 20, 2017
joebedford wrote:
I've always wondered if snowbirds who let their motorhomes sit for 6 months, pull out of the RV park then straight onto the highway are asking too much of their rigs.

Reason I went to a 5'ver. The issue was corrosion when I sat for a few months. Brakes and/or electrical, but never drivetrain. Truck is a daily driver so you know what you got when it's time to round up and head out.
John_Joey
Explorer
Dec 20, 2017
IMHO, I would not trust this forum, but seek out local protocol.

Reason is I move around the country some and know for a fact that different areas have different logic. For example, this is what I've been told from locals: In Florida if you don't run the engine seals will dry out. In Kentucky condensation is an issue with all the freeze thaws cycles. Either run and dry it out, or drain the oil once you take it out of storage. In Minnesota do nothing. So cold and dry up there that running the engine will cause condensation and not get hot enough to dry it.

So ask what others do in your location. Local advice will be the best.
mat60
Explorer
Dec 19, 2017
Hank MI wrote:
mat60 wrote:
If you dont run any engine for a long time the gaskets can dry up.. Don't ask me how I no.

when should I see the gaskets start leaking because they haven't yet?
..:)
Hank_MI
Explorer
Dec 19, 2017
troubledwaters wrote:
Hank MI wrote:
mat60 wrote:
If you dont run any engine for a long time the gaskets can dry up.. Don't ask me how I no.

I have a 1970 Chevelle that sits in the garage for up to 6 months straight without being started. No way I'm taking out on the roads in the winter. Also no way I can really heat up the engine to thoroughly dry things out by letting it idle in the garage. Especially the oil in the crankcase. Coolant may come up to operating temps but it really takes a load on the engine, driving it, to heat up the engine internals and oil. It takes a long time running just to dry out the exhaust system.

Been doing this for 13 years, when should I see the gaskets start leaking because they haven't yet?
Maybe the gaskets in 1970 were better then the gaskets made now. But regardless, if your owners manual for the Chevelle said to run the engine for 30 minutes each month while it is in winter storage what would you do then?

The Chevelle doesn't have the original engine. It's a modern replacement so gaskets are of current design. Both MH's we owned have sat for more than 6 months for various reasons. One sat for almost 2 years. Neither suggested I start them every month and neither developed a leak. Our boat sat for over 6 months, Chevy V6 engine, every year for years and never developed a leak. If you're owners manual says to start it every month and you choose to then by all means do it. I prefer not to since I don't want to replace exhaust systems or contaminate the clean oil I put in it prior to storage.
troubledwaters
Explorer III
Dec 19, 2017
Hank MI wrote:
mat60 wrote:
If you dont run any engine for a long time the gaskets can dry up.. Don't ask me how I no.

I have a 1970 Chevelle that sits in the garage for up to 6 months straight without being started. No way I'm taking out on the roads in the winter. Also no way I can really heat up the engine to thoroughly dry things out by letting it idle in the garage. Especially the oil in the crankcase. Coolant may come up to operating temps but it really takes a load on the engine, driving it, to heat up the engine internals and oil. It takes a long time running just to dry out the exhaust system.

Been doing this for 13 years, when should I see the gaskets start leaking because they haven't yet?
Maybe the gaskets in 1970 were better then the gaskets made now. But regardless, if your owners manual for the Chevelle said to run the engine for 30 minutes each month while it is in winter storage what would you do then?
time2roll
Nomad
Dec 19, 2017
joebedford wrote:
I've always wondered if snowbirds who let their motorhomes sit for 6 months, pull out of the RV park then straight onto the highway are asking too much of their rigs.
The less time idling cold is better IMO. No need for full throttle but nothing warms up faster than using the on-ramp.
Just a machine. Vehicle does not need a morning coffee and yoga to start a marathon.
DrewE
Explorer II
Dec 19, 2017
joebedford wrote:
I've always wondered if snowbirds who let their motorhomes sit for 6 months, pull out of the RV park then straight onto the highway are asking too much of their rigs.

I don't think so. The engine isn't any colder (and the oil isn't any further in the drain pan) than after sitting for a couple days, if even that long. There's plenty of time in maneuvering out of the campsite and trundling down the campground roads at low speeds to get it up to something sort of close to operating temperature before putting the hammer down.

If the fuel has broken down or otherwise turned to something other than good fuel, that's a different matter, of course, but you might not get to the highway in that case.
joebedford
Nomad II
Dec 19, 2017
I've always wondered if snowbirds who let their motorhomes sit for 6 months, pull out of the RV park then straight onto the highway are asking too much of their rigs.
Dave_H_M
Explorer II
Dec 19, 2017
Hank, don't hold your breath. :W