Engine starting issues

Just a quick update, have not had the issue happen anymore since the last time I posted. I have installed an emergency start switch in the battery box compartment just in case. We did find a connection on the starter that was suspect. It was necessarily loose, but it wasn't absolutely tight either. So who knows, that might have been it. But it starts first turn everytime now. Thx for all of the input.

brianseay1 wrote:
For awhile now ( meaning over a year) i have noticed at times I can turn the ignition key and it will just click. You could do this 2-3 times and then it would start no problem. the issue would come and go. Well two weeks ago we were getting ready to go to Tuscaloosa for the weekend and tailgate and I like to have never got it to start. It finally did start and we headed out on our trip. On sunday when it was time to come home we had the same issue. But this time I did notice the Battery Low voltage light came on. I drove two hundred miles home, backed the RV into the garage and turned it off. Hit the ignition just to see if it would start and it just clicked. Just put two new batteries on it today and it still does the same thing. Eventually you turn the key enough times it will start with no problem. It is a 2007 Coachman Cross Country 389ds. This is the first set of batteries I have installed.Can someone point me in the right direction of what I need to be to looking for ? going to be working on it this weekend, we have a trip planned in two weeks and I need to get it fixed. Thanks for any and all input

Two things aren't related, as I see it.
Auxiliary solenoid most likely.
In fact and before replacing mine I put a couple of buttons back in the engine compartment for bypassing all of the inline switches and relays that are between the ignition switch and the starter's main solenoid. This way, when there might be a problem and especially at night in a rain storm, I hopefully won't have to be crawling around and maybe down under for the problem. You may find the aux. solenoid on the frame rail adjacent to the engine, passenger side.
A jumper across it's contacts will pretty much verify if it's bad.

wa8yxm wrote:
I will say again Check for a PILOT RELAY.. that was the problem on my RV. This is a small relay same size as the FAN relay or other relays often on the main chassis fuse panel. or on a relay bank.

Going to work on it again monday. I will look for a Pilot relay. I have found the ignition relay located in the fuse panel that is in the basement compartment where my leveler system is located. Thanks for the info. I am on a Freightliner chassis with a Cummins 300HP engine.

I will say again Check for a PILOT RELAY.. that was the problem on my RV. This is a small relay same size as the FAN relay or other relays often on the main chassis fuse panel. or on a relay bank.

Still have not found the problem. The engine starts everytime I have turned the key. Going to run me hot wire from the battery thru a fuse block into a push button switch and then to the solenoid to use as an emergency way to start the engine until I can find the problem. All of my connections are clean and tight. And the engine starts just fine right now. Going to keep on looking for the problem, but as we all know intermittent electrical problems can be hard to find. Thanks for all of the input and please keep it coming.

You state that you have a Dodge. Therefore you have the gear reduction starter. Almost all Dodge/Chrysler starters have this issue after so many miles. The carbon brushes are worn in the solenoid housing or the copper contact plates are excessively worn/pitted. A rather easy fix. Can be done by simply removing three screws in cap plate on end.
Do an Amazon search for "starter contacts".

Can be done on vehicle but is easier on a workbench.

Tinstar wrote:
Had a similar problem. When I would get a no-start when turning the key, I found the small wire that goes to the starter solenoid was not getting any voltage. When it does get voltage, it would always start. The solenoid voltage was not passing through since the small wire was supposed to provide the voltage to close the contacts in the solenoid. I never figured out why I was not getting voltage through that wire at times. I just lived with it.

Had the same issue on my workhorse and may have the answer for you.

On my 2005 Workhorse there are not one but two "Solenoids" one is called a Pilot Relay. NOTE this same thing was done on one of my daughter's cars Just so you know.

The car had it put in by recall. Seems ignition systems were catching fire due to the high current through the starter solenoid so they put in a pilot relay.. After sale. On my Workhorse they did it up front (Also a GM designed system)

I pulled into a gas station last April and when I went to re-start so I could pull ahead a few feet. A sharp click (not a clunk not a rattle) well. no tech handy to waste money on so I had to do it myself. Since the CLICK is the sound of a relay (Clunk is the solenid) I started at the main chassis fuse box. Identified the relay on the 1st try Pulled it, Cleaned the contacts and replaced.

VAROOMN .

If it were mine as suggested by several other people I would clean all the battery connections and chassis ground connections. Get a wire brush and terminal cleaner cheap items get some dielectric grease to apply to the terminals after cleaning. If that doesn't fix it remove the starter & solenoid and have them checked also check those connections to make sure they are not loose or corroded. It could be a ignition switch but I have seen more bad corroded connections and bad starters than ignition switches but ignition switches do go bad.

Understanding how the system works will help I will try and explain. Here are the basics The ignition switch sends power to a relay called a starter solenoid the solenoid closes giving power to the starter. The reason a relay is used is because the amperage is too high for a small switch to carry that load it also allows for the large cables that carry the current from the battery to be as short as possible for current loss and cost of the cables.

The chassis ground connection often gets overlooked so make sure it is clean and tight. Make sure the ground connection to the chassis is not made over painted metal if it is clean the metal so it is shinny bare and add some dielectric grease to the connection replace any cables that show corrosion that can't be cleaned if the strands are all green going into the cable insulation change that cable.

If it is the ignition switch and the ignition switch is on the steering column the keyed part of the switch is not what needs to be changed it will be a switch down on the column a rod from the key lock goes down to the switch to actuate it these are also adjustable and can become out of adjustment which could also cause the problem so check it too. If the key switch is on the dash like mine that unit will have the switch built in with the keyed portion.

I will add one more thing there is a neutral safety switch in this system that does not allow you to start the vehicle when it is in gear so you can try putting it in neutral and wiggling the gear shifter in neutral and park to see if that changes anything if it is a manual type (not a push button).


Good luck.

Mike

Had a similar problem. When I would get a no-start when turning the key, I found the small wire that goes to the starter solenoid was not getting any voltage. When it does get voltage, it would always start. The solenoid voltage was not passing through since the small wire was supposed to provide the voltage to close the contacts in the solenoid. I never figured out why I was not getting voltage through that wire at times. I just lived with it.

Not familiar with your engine starter. But if it has a large solenoid attached to the starter that also does the engaging of the gear, it will be that one.
GM used those for years and that was always the failure point.