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Rwebby's avatar
Rwebby
Explorer
Aug 05, 2014

Suburban hot water tank

Hello everyone,
New to the forum. Hopefully I posted this in the correct area. I've been searching around some. I am having trouble with my Suburban Hot Water tank in my 07 cougar. It will not work on electric but runs fine on gas. It worked perfectly last trip out, about a week ago. This past weekend, it did not. Tried the breakers, but that wasn't it. Anyone have some suggestions ?

Thank in advance for the help.
  • I forgot the ohm value, but if the heating element is in clear view like mine was you can go to youtube and find the test procedure on ohming the heating element. Also you could check for juice there.
  • Jim-Linda wrote:
    Also, on the upper left there is a black plastic cover with two rubber "plugs". The one on the left is for 120vac. This is to reset the T/S. Press the rubber plug and try the heater.

    Jim


    I did try pressing reset. Now I pressed both at one time, thought that's maybe what was needed.

    Thanks everyone for the suggestions, I will give some troubleshooting a try. We're home for a week and a half before heading out again so I'll see what's going on.
  • Jim-Linda wrote:
    Also, on the upper left there is a black plastic cover with two rubber "plugs". The one on the left is for 120vac. This is to reset the T/S. Press the rubber plug and try the heater.

    Jim


    There you go!

    The Suburban uses 2 sets of t-stats.
    Left side is 120V AC set. The High temp t-stat (top) has a reset.
    Right side is 12V DC set. The High temp t-stat has a reset.

    IF tripped no electric (or propane depending on which one tripped)
    IF tripped......why?
    The high temp one trips when water temp exceeds 180*F which means the 'normal' t-stat didn't open at 130*F.
    IF tripped...probably need to replace the set.

    If element is bad...AC circuit breaker would trip or just not heat, depends on if it shorted or just burnt out.
  • Also, on the upper left there is a black plastic cover with two rubber "plugs". The one on the left is for 120vac. This is to reset the T/S. Press the rubber plug and try the heater.

    Jim
  • I replaced my Water Heater Switch but it was located in the back of the WH and so inaccessible that I had to pull the entire unit. Also found some fried wiring.
    The switch should just pop out (as I remember it just snaps in and is held in place with plastic `ears') but you may destroy it in the process. To bypass the switch just connect the two wires that go to the switch. But, be sure it is a switch problem. You should have voltage on one side of the switch and either voltage or no voltage on the other side depending on whether the switch is on or off respectively.
  • Replace the switch. They are cheap and bypassing makes it easier to burn up your element by mistake.
    switch
    check your element first by checking for continuity across the two screws.
  • Thanks. I know about the switch as there is only one way to turn it on and off. I know the tank was full of water before I turned it on. How do you go about bypassing the switch? Or should u just replace the switch.
  • Element my be burned out. Never turn on before you are sure it is full of water. Only takes seconds without any water.
  • A suburban HW system has an electric switch on the heater accessible through the outside panel that must be turned on also. Bottom left side, black rocker switch.
    I lost A/C power to mine a few weeks back, found the switch had shorted so I just bypassed it.

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